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1997 S-10 SS, 4.3 Vortec, Cranks, No Start.


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Hi All; I have been helping my father troubleshoot a issue with his S-10. Model: 97 S-10 SS, with 4.3l ...




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Old 06-18-2008, 01:27 PM
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1997 S-10 SS, 4.3 Vortec, Cranks, No Start.

Hi All;
I have been helping my father troubleshoot a issue with his S-10.

Model: 97 S-10 SS, with 4.3l W VIN Engine Code, 2 Wheel Drive.
Issue: Cranks, No Start.

History: Prior to the truck only just cranking with no start, it would occasionally cut out while driving, drop back about 200 rpm, throw a SES, but return to normal less than a second later, never actually dying.

We did not have a code scanner until recently, but we were able to scan for codes before it actually quit running, and none were found.

Were using a Innova 3110 Scanner.

We even scanned for codes after it died, and not were found.

We have since:

- Replaced the cap and rotor.
- Checked fuel pressure, at check valve, and its at 62psi
- Strong spark at coil, and all plugs.
- Fuel pump primes, and sounds strong.
- Cranks strong.
- Replaced the cam position sensor
- Replaced the crank position sensor
- Replaced the throttle position sensor
- Checked continuity on all fuses.
- Checked voltages at Ignition control module, and coil.
- Cleaned the contacts on the conectors at the Crank Position, TPS, Coil, and ICM.
- Oil is clean, and has no signs of a blown head gasket.
- All of dash, accessories, and gauges, work fine.

The only thing that we did notice, was that when we put it all back together we accidently got the plug wires in the wrong order, and it wanted to fire.. but just stumbled...

We are down to it maybe being the distributor..... dunno what else it could be... anyone else have any ideas? Injector pulses?

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Old 06-18-2008, 01:37 PM
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it is a chevy,,,,,,just give up while you are ahead
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got spanked at the holt getogether,,maybe next time I will at least win 1
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:41 PM
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Start with a compression test with all the spark plugs out when doing the compression test.
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SrtBrad
Start with a compression test with all the spark plugs out when doing the compression test.
That is on the next list of things... but it never seemed to lose power like you would expect it to do if a ring(s) were going bad, and god forbid if it threw a rod... no funny noises, banging etc...

Even with low compression, it should at least try and fire.
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2011 Dodge Challenger SRT-8, 392 Hemi, Hurst 6 speed, Airaid CAI, HID Fogs, Viper Alarm w/GPS, CORSA X-treme, Magaflow Mids

2007 Dodge Ram 3500 QC, 6.7, AirAid Airbox, H&S BlackMaxx, TVD, DPF Delete, Diamond Eye Muffler, RBP Tailpipe, EBC, Mag Hytec/ Diff/Trans, Pioneer DVD,3Sixty.2, and Sub Amps, Kenwood Amp, MB Quart and Boston Mids/Highs ProBox Rocks Dual 10"s

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Old 06-18-2008, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stick
it is a chevy,,,,,,just give up while you are ahead
Well.. he does like our SRTs, but just does not have the extra cash to buy one...
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Scott.
2011 Dodge Challenger SRT-8, 392 Hemi, Hurst 6 speed, Airaid CAI, HID Fogs, Viper Alarm w/GPS, CORSA X-treme, Magaflow Mids

2007 Dodge Ram 3500 QC, 6.7, AirAid Airbox, H&S BlackMaxx, TVD, DPF Delete, Diamond Eye Muffler, RBP Tailpipe, EBC, Mag Hytec/ Diff/Trans, Pioneer DVD,3Sixty.2, and Sub Amps, Kenwood Amp, MB Quart and Boston Mids/Highs ProBox Rocks Dual 10"s

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Old 06-18-2008, 01:53 PM
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Fuel, air, compression and spark is what you need to verify first. Make sure the compression is within 15 psi of each cylinder. Make sure your fuel filter is not clogged as well. A clogged fuel filter with a good fuel pump will still deliver enough fuel at idle but will starve under acceleration. Verify the injectors are not clogged. etc etc...

I will walk you thru this if you like. Just start off with the compression test.
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:56 PM
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I failed to mention, we did install a new fuel filter.

We also checked fuel pressure at the check valve on the fuel rail.

Since it never does start, I can only check fuel pressure as it primes the system...

I will go an get a compression checker and see if we have good compresssion... he has one.. but its a cheapy, and does not work well.
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2011 Dodge Challenger SRT-8, 392 Hemi, Hurst 6 speed, Airaid CAI, HID Fogs, Viper Alarm w/GPS, CORSA X-treme, Magaflow Mids

2007 Dodge Ram 3500 QC, 6.7, AirAid Airbox, H&S BlackMaxx, TVD, DPF Delete, Diamond Eye Muffler, RBP Tailpipe, EBC, Mag Hytec/ Diff/Trans, Pioneer DVD,3Sixty.2, and Sub Amps, Kenwood Amp, MB Quart and Boston Mids/Highs ProBox Rocks Dual 10"s

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Old 06-18-2008, 02:03 PM
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I called a freind of mine who is mechanic at a local Chevy dealer. At first thought, he had no reason to believe why it wouldn't start given all the checks and diagnostics you performed. The only other thing maybe an injector issue. It is doubtful the distributor is the problem if you have spark at each plug when it is cranked. Unfortunately, you may have to connect up a TECH 2 (GM scan tool) to figure out if the injectors are working as they should.
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Old 06-18-2008, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastRam
I called a freind of mine who is mechanic at a local Chevy dealer. At first thought, he had no reason to believe why it wouldn't start given all the checks and diagnostics you performed. The only other thing maybe an injector issue. It is doubtful the distributor is the problem if you have spark at each plug when it is cranked. Unfortunately, you may have to connect up a TECH 2 (GM scan tool) to figure out if the injectors are working as they should.
I am leaning towards its being the injector system.. which on this truck is a complete assembly called the spider, and from what I have been finding out is prone to failing... it has 116,000 miles it...
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2011 Dodge Challenger SRT-8, 392 Hemi, Hurst 6 speed, Airaid CAI, HID Fogs, Viper Alarm w/GPS, CORSA X-treme, Magaflow Mids

2007 Dodge Ram 3500 QC, 6.7, AirAid Airbox, H&S BlackMaxx, TVD, DPF Delete, Diamond Eye Muffler, RBP Tailpipe, EBC, Mag Hytec/ Diff/Trans, Pioneer DVD,3Sixty.2, and Sub Amps, Kenwood Amp, MB Quart and Boston Mids/Highs ProBox Rocks Dual 10"s

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Old 06-18-2008, 02:49 PM
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Yep, they use a crappy spider assembly with el'cheapo poppet valves they call injectors. My '96 with a 350 vortec uses a similar setup, installed underneath the upper intake plenum. It consists of a central distribution block with 8 "injectors" that distributes fuel via 8 plastic hoses to each intake port. Crappy setup and tends to leak, clog, throw codes, poor driveability, etc. In my case, I purchased an upgraded GM fuel injection setup that rids the fuel block thingy and uses 8 real injectors.

Another thing you can check is the fuel pressure when trying to crank. The pressure should be between 56 and 66 psi when cranking. Also, after cranking, assuming the pressure builds, check to make sure the pressure does not bleed off too quickly. You may have a faulty regulator or a bad pump, even though it shows a positive pressure, it can be faulty when trying to crank. Also you can try to pour some fuel directly into the TBI and try starting it. If it starts and runs after fuel is poured into the TBI, your fuel pump is history (too low pressure when cranking).
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2006 DR SRT-10 RC, MOPAR Sirius Sat Radio, Silverstar head and fog lamps, JMB CAI, B&M Shifter w/Cherry Performance Lever, JTSVP Oil Lines, Night Runner Headlights, Mopar/Borla Cat Back and Gallons of Wax and Wheel Cleaner

SOLD May 5, 2012
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