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Engine backfire and missing


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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2018, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jumpingjoe628 View Post
I’m all for de-catting, as when I got the truck the rears were already deleted. So now since my knowledge with modern tech computers and what they control on these newer vehicles is limited (always had older hot rods), how will the sensors react when the cats are removed? The front sensor before the cat shouldn’t be a problem but the post cat sensor will likely not detect properly and probably throw a code. Is there some sort of delete attachment to plug into the wire instead of using the sensor itself so as not to throw a code. It’s not like we have emissions testing here but I really don’t wanna see the CEL lit on the dash if I can help it.
You can purchase simulators that will trick your computer into thinking there is proper working cats on the vehicle.

I got these from the viper store which were a little pricey but worked like a charm and had no clearance issues:

Part # O2-SIMS-90X2
Dodge RAM SRT-10 (2004-06) Performance exhaust CAT O-2 '90° LOW Profile' Simulator-Spacer - Stainless Steel. For tight spaces.
https://theviperstore.com/RAM-SRT10_...ce_Exhaust.htm

Again, at 26K I highly highly doubt it’s a cat but it’s possible. I would start simple first then go balls deep on the issue.

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Old 12-08-2018, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Psycho1122 View Post
I'd head this advise. Sounds like a Cat that has become dislodged internally. Get underneath and see if you can bang on the cats. If one rattles, the honeycomb platinum substrate has broke loose. This causes a "clog" upon high exhaust flow (more throttle).
Happened exactly as you described to my 1996 V8 Dakota.

Good Luck! Cheers!

This happened to my buddy in his Crx

Took the cat out and found out it had turned into a little ball that was rolling around sometimes blocking exhaust flow

Kx
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2018, 02:53 PM
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So looking at this from a logical prospective, they are simply spacers that move the sensor up and out of the exhaust path. And it appears from the description that it is heat sensitive only? But my issue with the description is that it states that the exhaust gas temps will increase higher when removing the cats? How is this possible when the function of the cats is to heat up during a chemical reaction by the elements it’s made from to help burn off unburnt fuel? ie the cats outlet would be hotter than if having a straight pipe. So then removing the cats would have a lower exhaust temp and if a spacer was installed it’d be even lower.

I also thought that these sensors read the gasses content as well, that obviously can’t be the case if these spacer would fix the CEL when completely removing the cats. If it works then it works, but I’ve already seen them on eBay for $10-12
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Old 12-08-2018, 04:42 PM
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QUICK UPDATE*****

On the way to Advanced Auto to purchase some injector cleaner it happened again, this time stranded me in the center lane median for a few minutes as it wouldn’t immediately start back up. After a few attempts it finally started. While at the store I got an OBD2 reader since this time it tripped the CEL. Turns out there’s a couple codes. P0320 for “crankshaft position sensor circuit” and P1391 for “loss of camshaft crankshaft”. What also popped up was my Evap codes “medium” and “gross” leaks that I’ve been trying to track down.

Got it home safely and dumped the can of Seafoam brand injector cleaner and let her idle a few minutes while I pulled the codes myself on my new toy. Then I erased them and took a spin around the block. Got on it a few times and it’s runs great like nothings wrong. Could this just be a faulty sensor or better yet a loose connection on the harness? Or is it something more involved?
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:34 PM
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Ok, bought a new crank position sensor and went out in the rain to change it. Not too bad to get to from underneath. Wow!!! What a difference when I started it up! Came to life instantly and had a waaaaay smoother idle. Also had crisper throttle response when revving. Gonna giver her a shake down run tomorrow during daylight time.

Before as it idled it sounded like an exhaust pipe or muffler leak and would also excessively backfire and crackle on decel. Even during free revving. Almost non existent now. Unfortunately it’ll be raining till Monday here so won’t have dry ground to see if any performance is restored but it felt great to begin with while this issue was present. Will update the thread if any more codes come in related to this and for a test drive update. Thanks y’all for the help!
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Old 12-09-2018, 12:31 AM
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Atleast you got a cel now, you can start tracking it down, my truck popped, misfired and lost power , and kicked my dipstick out and blew oil all over
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Old 12-09-2018, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver05 View Post
Atleast you got a cel now, you can start tracking it down, my truck popped, misfired and lost power , and kicked my dipstick out and blew oil all over
Think I read in another thread that it was a clogged cat right? Causing back pressure? I could be wrong but after all the different threads I read last night (at least 50) they are all kinda blurring together, lol.

I’ve identified my cats as a 2.5” Maganaflow universal part from the serial numbers on them. The rear cats have a short test pipe welded inline and then each side goes to magnaflow mufflers. I’m glad they’re not the originals as some have suggested that they can break down and clog due to the poor design.

So after my morning coffee I’ll be taking her for an “errand” run to see if the issue returns and we will see.
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Old 12-09-2018, 01:39 PM
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Keep in mind , my 05 only had 55k when the cats went bad , cost me $1000 to replace 1 when I had the cat delete system and the dealer would not install them for me
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Old 12-09-2018, 02:37 PM
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Test drive was good, now only time will tell.
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