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Extending the upper A-arm mount when lowring a RC


This is a discussion on Extending the upper A-arm mount when lowring a RC within the General Discussion forums, part of the Viper Truck SRT-10 Discussion category!
Just curious how some people have done this when lowering their RC's and by how much. I'm starting mine on ...




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Old 11-27-2007, 09:58 PM
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Extending the upper A-arm mount when lowring a RC

Just curious how some people have done this when lowering their RC's and by how much. I'm starting mine on Friday and have been doing a ton of research making sure I've got everything ready. I printed out a couple of tips in the DIY section but I haven't really seen anyone comment on how to extend these holes exactly and by how much. I was thinking of using a drill bit and just drilling out a section starting about half an inch over from where the factory hole ends. Then I was going to use a aggressive sort of dremmel bit thats about the same diameter of the hole to smooth it out a bit before shooting it with a bit of black primer. But this wont work if I only need to extend the hole by less then 3/4's of an inch. I do suspect this might be too much as I have Gary's 1"-2" drop. I'm thinking I only need to gain about half an inch which would lead me to using just the dremmel bit which I would imagine would take forever. Plus I dont want the hole to be to be to wide. I imagine trying to control a dremmel bit hooked up to an impact gun would be rather difficult and cause the hole to be all jacked up. I cant have that. Any suggestions or any other advice before me and my buddy tackle this. Thanks in advance.

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Old 11-27-2007, 11:23 PM
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You need to extend the 4 upper a-arm slots outward towards the tire. Leave about 3/4" of meat left at the end of the brackets you should be fine. I cant remember how much I took out but make sure you take out enough otherwise it will all have to come apart again. I have 3/4" of metal left at the end of the brackets though. I just used a large drill bit moved it back and forth then smoothed the edges and hit the bare metal with paint.

Be sure to have a grinder with a thin blade on it to grind the front weld on the bumpstops. Hit them with a hammer bend them down and grind off the rear welds. Make sure all of the bare metal is painted and the metals grindings arent on the frame otherwise it will rust.
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:42 PM
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Stone brother, go to northern hydraulics get you a die grinder, and then Ithink all they have is the stone bits, the steel ones are kinda high.
but take it and grind approximatley 1/2 inch out. and have a blow gun available also, to blow the steel dust out of everything.And use safety glasses, the dust can get into your eyes.
If you can find a steel grinding bit they are the best, but I think mine ran like $75 or more, but you can knock it out in 10 minutes.

withthe stone bit ,you can kick it out in about 30 or so, but the stone bits will wear quickly but they are cheap. but a die grinder works best bud.
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:57 PM
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how much lowerin ya'll talkin about? have the ground force kit, 1/2 , installed it aligned just fine.
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Old 11-28-2007, 12:02 AM
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Garys kit usually lowered the front between 1-2 inches and it took the camber specs to the limit.
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Old 11-28-2007, 12:30 AM
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Put one of those rocks in your bed, that will lower it!

How much are you lowering it? More than 2/4"? ---Disregard, I see 1/2 drop.
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Last edited by Bone; 11-28-2007 at 12:35 AM.
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Old 11-28-2007, 01:28 AM
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What is really needed is a Spindle Kit that way there would be no modifications needed, just install and enjoy the stock travel
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:47 AM
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Thanks for all the great replies, just what I was looking for. Dominick, I'm glad you told me to grind toward the tire, I was thinking I had to go toward the engine for some reason. Just how I was visualizing it in my head it! I haven't taken a close look yet but I'd like to think I woulda figured it out once she was on the lift (I hope)!!

Hey Stinker, my buddy who's garage we're doing it at told me he's got a die grinder. I'm picking up the cutting wheel and bits later today. I got an old wheel so I can match it up but his grinder has the wheels getting screwed into the top of the grinder. I guess I'll be checking out the grinder to see what type of bit I'm gonna need. If he doesn't have a die grinder, I'll either use my drill or pick up an attachment that has a chucked bit to hook up to his impact wrench. That things got plenty of RPM's and power!!! I'm not gonna buy a die grinder just for this job but thanks for all the info, I was figuring about half an inch needed removing. So, you dont think I can get away with using a drill bit and drilling a fraction of an inch off from where the upper control arm hole stops, just enough for the bit to bite (I have these nasty titanium bits that bite great into metal) then send her in. I figured this would be good for 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, depending on the size of the bit I use. What do you think?

Bone, I had the 555 lb stone dropped off at my other buddies place of business (the thing had to be ordered and shipped) because the shipping rates were cheaper. We then had to get it to my training facility. We used his big tractor forklift to stick it in the back of his 03 Dodge Cummins 3500, the thing dropped a good 1 1/2 to 2". It was kinda sweet to watch!! The truck sat perfectly level, they way it should look
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05 Viper - Belanger headers, h/f cats and catback with crossover delete; 3.73 Dana gears; SCT custom dyno tune and driver seat bolted directly to the floor!!
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2005 Swift Barchopper - 124" S&S V-twin with baker 6 speed 140 hp/140 lb ft!
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbstone
Thanks for all the great replies, just what I was looking for. Dominick, I'm glad you told me to grind toward the tire, I was thinking I had to go toward the engine for some reason. Just how I was visualizing it in my head it! I haven't taken a close look yet but I'd like to think I woulda figured it out once she was on the lift (I hope)!!

Hey Stinker, my buddy who's garage we're doing it at told me he's got a die grinder. I'm picking up the cutting wheel and bits later today. I got an old wheel so I can match it up but his grinder has the wheels getting screwed into the top of the grinder. I guess I'll be checking out the grinder to see what type of bit I'm gonna need. If he doesn't have a die grinder, I'll either use my drill or pick up an attachment that has a chucked bit to hook up to his impact wrench. That things got plenty of RPM's and power!!! I'm not gonna buy a die grinder just for this job but thanks for all the info, I was figuring about half an inch needed removing. So, you dont think I can get away with using a drill bit and drilling a fraction of an inch off from where the upper control arm hole stops, just enough for the bit to bite (I have these nasty titanium bits that bite great into metal) then send her in. I figured this would be good for 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, depending on the size of the bit I use. What do you think?

Bone, I had the 555 lb stone dropped off at my other buddies place of business (the thing had to be ordered and shipped) because the shipping rates were cheaper. We then had to get it to my training facility. We used his big tractor forklift to stick it in the back of his 03 Dodge Cummins 3500, the thing dropped a good 1 1/2 to 2". It was kinda sweet to watch!! The truck sat perfectly level, they way it should look
If you can get the drill bit in there buddy , that would really cut the time down
sounds like ya got plenty of equipment to do the job bro
Just dont puch too hard with the drill bit bo




you may jsut end up drillin into the rear bumper with those big ass arms! lololololol
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:19 PM
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try using a 90 degree die grinder with a #10 rotary file bit. thats what i used and it was quick. the 90 degree die grinder works best...
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