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Non factory tonneau cover and keep the wing


This is a discussion on Non factory tonneau cover and keep the wing within the General Discussion forums, part of the Viper Truck SRT-10 Discussion category!
Originally Posted by GSJake I wish there were some pics or a video of the wind tunnel testing on the ...



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Old 12-21-2018, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSJake View Post
I wish there were some pics or a video of the wind tunnel testing on the SRT-10!
Sorry if I was not clear. The test I read about were Chevy only, covered bed as our factory no wing, open bed gate up, open bed gate down and the little mesh gates. No SRT-10.

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Old 12-22-2018, 04:02 AM
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Would a rear diffuser work ? Like on the challengers
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Old 12-23-2018, 11:24 AM
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A diffuser "may" work if it is designed in a wind tunnel. Otherwise, it would be for aesthetics. If the SRT team along with the Dodge NASCAR team would have thought a diffuser would have been beneficial, i'm sure they would have incorporated one. However, costs and practicality (spare tire location etc.) may have had an impact. Like I mentioned earlier in this thread, the SRT team made sure to incorporate "rake" in the truck. Yes it was lowered, but not "leveled". They could have at the sacrifice of aero. The rake, in conjunction with the front tray under the bumper generates smooth flow under the truck that is minimized by the splitter. Then the high velocity, smooth airflow under the front slows down as it approaches the back of the truck due to expansion (from the rake). This expansion creates a venturi effect that helps draw the air out. The truck under-body acts like a long diffuser! Very understated and cool!!
The modern RAM trucks (along with the other OEM's) have quite a few aerodynamic treatments that greatly reduce drag for a brick. I would not be surprised if the engineers took examples from the SRT-10 and incorporated them into the newer RAM's. (I.E. variable grill shutters, smooth flow along sides like our cladding etc.). Even gaskets between the cab and bed that reduce "eddie currents" that can disturb laminar flow along the sides of the truck. This is why I have not lowered the back of the truck for appearance, integrated the cab to bed gaskets from a 2016 RAM (they actually clip on the bed sides and holes are already at the bottom of the bed for the transverse gasket ), removed my wipers and went with a stubby antenna etc.

There are excellent reasons the SRT-10 has such a high, stock top speed for a brick!!
Engin89 and shorty like this.
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Old 12-23-2018, 04:25 PM
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Do you have a pic of the gaskets ? I lowered the rear on mine, 3” I believe. As soon as I get it back I’m doing a shorty antenna also, I don’t like that huge stick bending back @140! The only thing that sucks on these things is the bump steer ! Ugly feeling even at 60 mph
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:28 AM
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Lowering the truck will induce bump steer. Suspension TRAVEL and alignment is key. If you are going to push the truck over 90 mph, i'd address that.

I do not have an up close, detailed image of the cab to bed aero seals. However, you can walk up to any 2015 or newer 1500 and see them. Here is a link to a RAM parts site and you scroll down to the third exploded view of parts where #15 and #16 are in blue. Good Luck!

https://parts.moparonlineparts.com/a...de-panels-scat

Part #'s: #15 55397600AC Front Seals (R+L)
#16 55372749AB Lower Seal
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2000 ZX1270R, 200 H.P. / 111 Ft. Lbs.
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:19 PM
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My 05 QC is still stock even the original shocks yet with 75000 miles. I have taken it to 135 as recently as a few weeks ago. It is very stable at that speed. Surprising for a 5500 pound truck.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:44 PM
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What did you guys do to address the bump steer, I see the kits are no longer for sale
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Old 12-28-2018, 08:38 AM
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My truck NEVER had bump steer.

Lowered trucks experience the phenomenon. Carrol Smith published a great instruction manual to instruct a reader to better understand vehicle dynamics at high force levels.. "Tune To Win"

Chapter Eleven addresses straight line instability - car darts over bumps or "bump steer". Here are the list of causes:

-Too much front toe-in or toe-out (id say too much "toe-in" in your case)
-Uneven front castor setting (castor is also effected by lowering the rear)
-Uneven front shock forces or bump rubbers (travel)
-front roll bar miles too stiff

As I stated earlier in this thread, address your front end alignment. Or, better yet, raise the rear of truck. Then address alignment.

Cheers!
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2005 Black RC Born on April, 22nd., 16th hour of 2005: BBK, JTSVP Gen II Shifter, JTSVP Under Drive Pulley, K&N Drop-In, Demon Coils, B&B Manifold Back Exhaust w/ Hi flow Cats, SCT Tuned by Torrie, RX Monster Catch Can, JMB QA1 "kicker" shock, Polyurethane Suspension / Sway bar Bushings, AEM Wideband, Raptor Shift Light, Dynamat Interior, JTSVP Oil Cooler lines, 70/30 DiH2O/Dexcool Mix w/ Water Wetter, ALL fluids Synthetic and a few "sneaky" aero mods

2000 ZX1270R, 200 H.P. / 111 Ft. Lbs.
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Old 12-29-2018, 06:39 PM
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I had it aligned, I even ordered all new bushings , but it broke before my friend could do all the suspension on the front end , keep in mind it is stock height, and as far as the rear I only did a 3” leveling kit
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:11 AM
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Refer to post #18

Good Luck
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2005 Black RC Born on April, 22nd., 16th hour of 2005: BBK, JTSVP Gen II Shifter, JTSVP Under Drive Pulley, K&N Drop-In, Demon Coils, B&B Manifold Back Exhaust w/ Hi flow Cats, SCT Tuned by Torrie, RX Monster Catch Can, JMB QA1 "kicker" shock, Polyurethane Suspension / Sway bar Bushings, AEM Wideband, Raptor Shift Light, Dynamat Interior, JTSVP Oil Cooler lines, 70/30 DiH2O/Dexcool Mix w/ Water Wetter, ALL fluids Synthetic and a few "sneaky" aero mods

2000 ZX1270R, 200 H.P. / 111 Ft. Lbs.
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