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Stage 2 traction kit & sway bar endlinks install

This is a discussion on Stage 2 traction kit & sway bar endlinks install within the General Discussion forums, part of the Viper Truck SRT-10 Discussion category!

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Old 09-08-2018, 06:17 PM
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Stage 2 traction kit & sway bar endlinks install

I finally got around to installing these kits which I got from JMB. My truck is an 05 RC that had been lowered already from what appears to be at least a 2/3 kit judging by the rear blocks under the axle. The front I havenít the slightest on how they did it considering the sticker tag was still attached to the spring and the part # came back a stock unit. Either way both sway bars were not even close to parallel to the ground.

So getting to the good stuff, I set the truck up in the driveway and got my ground pads out so I could get under it and not be crawling around on a rough surface. Jacked up the frame by the hitch area so itíd lift both sides at the same time and putt a wheel chock out front. Started with removing the old kicker shock that was leaking oil badly and was covered in black sludge. Granted, thereís no other oil anywhere on the underside of this vehicle, very clean. So when going to install the bolts back through I noticed that they wouldnít pass through the eyelet on the kicker shock (either side) and there was no new bolts that came with the kit. The original bolts have a couple flat sides to the pm on the collared section so as to lock in place when you go to tighten the nut (very convenient imo). So being there was no mention of new bolts in the instructions I just went ahead and turned down the originals on my lathe till they fit correctly while still maintaining the flat ends near the head of the bolt.

So now I move onto the slapper bar bump stops and pull them out. The kit comes with new hardware for this and although the bolt has a hex end, once you get it through the hole you can angle it a little till you get the head to lock down inside the bump stop and then tighten it the rest of the way. As for the leaf clamps it also came with some nice hardware but according to the instructions there was supposed to be a washer for both sides (head and nut side) but only came with enough for the nut side. Had to call in to verify I wasnít missing washers in my kit and I believe that the instructions just havenít been updated yet. Also missing the larger leaf roller that was supposed to come with the kit but was promised itíd be shipped right out to me.

Now getting to the end links, the rears upper nut / bolt combo has a nice nut extension coming off of it that catches the frame when unthreading the head of the bolt from the outside. I didnít even have the truck lifted in the air and I could get these out with an impact. While installing the new link ends there seems to be an unnecessary center collar that covers the bolts and at least with my truck to have them adjusted so the sway bar lands flat with the ground the links needed to be adjusted longer than the spiffy looking collar. So off it came since I didnít want it rattling around while hitting bumps.

Reinstalling the upper end of the link requires you to add the supplied spacers to take up the gap in he frame mount. Not sure why the head of the link couldnít just have been wider or at least have the correct width spacers with the kit. I had to search my own stock pile and then drill out a set to match the hole diameter. Ok problem solved. Greased everything up with the supplied poly grease and everything looks lined up correctly. Front went pretty good too but the crimped nuts for the lower mount into the control arm was way too tight to get installed properly. Since itís on a ball joint for flexibility after it jams up it starts spinning and thereís not even a flat area on the upper end to grab with a wrench. Had to go to Loweís and use regular grade 8 nuts with washers and red locktite. The original rubber frame mounts were not slit in the middle so have to cut them off with a sharp knife.

After an entire day of fiddling with all this I went out for a test drive. Things definitely tightened up back there and with handling. Iíll def be interested in getting the rest of energy suspensions kit. Had it on my 78 vette when I did a restomod on it. Next step will be to get the correct bump stops for the frame now. Fronts are almost touching and the rears are starting to disintegrate.

That is all for now but I may go out and take some pictures too.

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Old 09-09-2018, 07:11 PM
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Below I added some links to videos I made of before and after the traction kit. The camera is mounted under the bed aiming at the diff and drive shaft. I wasnít exactly pleased with the results but it seems to have helped a little. Iíve seen some long barn videos and was thinking I really donít wanna spend that kind of cash when this truck isnít a dedicated strip vehicle. Itís also not my DD. Caltracs looks to be promising but havenít seen any before and after videos yet but it seems thatís gonna be next. As for actual feel by the seat of my pants, it definitely feels tighter back there and I am probably gonna replace the front leaf spring bushings with a set from Energy suspension.

In the long run considering I get the Caltracs, total spent would be upwards around a set of long bars, I guess you live and learn.


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Old 09-10-2018, 10:03 AM
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The two best mods I have done to obtain excellent street traction and maintain handling with OEM Pirelli tires is Poly leaf spring bushings on the front and rear eyes along with shackles and the QA-1 Kicker shock set close to max. Most of the slop and "rear steer" is from the soft, OEM rubber bushings. The springs themselves are VERY stiff and adding additional clamps just makes it worse. You need all the compliance you can get from the stock leafs. I only add the JMB oversize bump stops for strip duty to "pre-load" the slapper. On the street, the oversize bumps will only reduce travel and take away compliance and thus reduce ride quality and handling.

Good luck with your traction venture.

2005 Black RC Born on April, 22nd., 16th hour of 2005: BBK, JTSVP Gen II Shifter, JTSVP Under Drive Pulley, K&N Drop-In, Demon Coils, B&B Manifold Back Exhaust w/ Hi flow Cats, SCT Tuned by Torrie, RX Monster Catch Can, JMB QA1 "kicker" shock, Polyurethane Suspension / Sway bar Bushings, AEM Wideband, Raptor Shift Light, Dynamat Interior, JTSVP Oil Cooler lines, 70/30 DiH2O/Dexcool Mix w/ Water Wetter, ALL fluids Synthetic and a few "sneaky" aero mods

2000 ZX1270R, 200 H.P. / 111 Ft. Lbs.
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Old 09-10-2018, 05:13 PM
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Thanks for the advice psycho, I actually like the stiffer ride and traction is a bit better now. I know replacing the original scorpion tires (yes 05 on the date code, lol) will help and I’m definitely going to get the leaf bushings. After the install I’ll make a couple more videos in diff spots to see if I can capture exactly where the extra play is. What’s the issue with the shackles may I ask? The leaf clamp shackles?
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:54 PM
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:46 PM
Jumpingjoe628's Avatar
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Granted this is not one of our trucks but a before and after of an old F-100 with some power. I guess what weíre dealing with is leaps and bounds better to start with but have seen some interesting things like sliding rear shackles.



Watch the rear leaf shackle.
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