Consistent 230 coolant temp

Since I'm new here, I'll cut you a break lol

Anyway all BS insults aside, for those of interest, here is what I found when hooking up to the scanner.

Truck warmed up as usual,
Fan kicked on high at 212 degrees,
Truck settled at 221-222 degrees,
I saw a peak of 224 for a second.
It stayed there the whole time at idle, actually dropped to 219 during some of the drive.
Cooling system is all fine, no air pockets.
On the dash gauge it was where it always is, which you would interpret as 225-230.

So no surprise, there doesn't seem to be any problem at all. All the previous posts I have seen with people saying there truck runs 195 and 205, etc, they just probably are assuming that. I bet if everybody went out and actually hooked up to something to read the temp that just about all of these trucks would be running consistently at around 220.

Another funny thing is that I could not find anywhere that actually said a specific operating temp number. I checked ALLDATA, Mitchell Prodemand, and identifix (which accesses factory service manuals) and none stated an actual temperature number.

It's your truck, do what you want. However, I would have a concern with any vehicle running that hot.
 
rad. is plugged internally, have it rodded out id bet its barely flowing any water, no flush or draino is gunna clean it out
 
A true fluid exchange at a shop will hook up inline with the cooling system and block off one side and flush the whole thing without having to pull any drain plugs. Quick and easy.
dont have that kind of equipment, the next best deal is to drain out the block and rad. and flush it.
 
you can also use an infrared gun and point it at different areas of the rad. while engine is hot and running, hot areas mean water flow, cooler areas mean blockage
 
Dont let a few smart-ass answers, discourage you from asking questions. This site is very informative, and these guys can, and will, help you find the issue you're having. First thing I would do, is try to bleed out any air(if there is any) from the bleeder valve located on top of the therm. housing. if no air, then possibly there is a blockage. Anyway...hang in there, and good luck
 
you can also use an infrared gun and point it at different areas of the rad. while engine is hot and running, hot areas mean water flow, cooler areas mean blockage

I will do that, as well as the full flush with the machine.

But again, I have seen tons of radiator blockages over the years and it always causes temps to creep eventually under certain conditions. I can not believe it would have a blockage, even minor, and stay so consistent all the time.

I did find some info on the 2004 hemi rams, that they should consistently run 205-210. So to me that sounds reasonable that this truck would run 220.
 
Dont let a few smart-ass answers, discourage you from asking questions. This site is very informative, and these guys can, and will, help you find the issue you're having. First thing I would do, is try to bleed out any air(if there is any) from the bleeder valve located on top of the therm. housing. if no air, then possibly there is a blockage. Anyway...hang in there, and good luck

Yea I am here for the discussion, and just the fact that there seems to be a lot of opinions but no concrete number that is known to be the average. I just still do not think there is a problem but if I am wrong I will make it be known.
 
just went thru this with a dakota this summer, had a 180 stat but ran 210-220, took rad to a shop he opened it up in front of me and omg it had like 3 or 4 open tubes all the rest were blocked,
 
you can also use an infrared gun and point it at different areas of the rad. while engine is hot and running, hot areas mean water flow, cooler areas mean blockage

I suggested this 3 days ago but I don't think any one is listening.
 
as far as the hi temp spot the hotter the better for an efficient engine, but for performane detonation and a high engine temp dont go well together with restricted fuel octane, for a fine line the factory sets the truck to run at prolly 195-210 with 91-93 octane, if you can up the pressure of the cooling system then 220-240 may be possible but detonation from high combustion temps is going to happen, i think the 170stat was designed for the extra cooling of the combustion temps to use performance tuners safely, my truck has a 180 stat and high octane fuel, i feel the higher temp allows the clearances to properly open up and frees up the motor. also retard timing will put alot of heat in the motor too if all else fails maybe your scanner can show you the timing ?
 
Dont let a few smart-ass answers, discourage you from asking questions. This site is very informative, and these guys can, and will, help you find the issue you're having. First thing I would do, is try to bleed out any air(if there is any) from the bleeder valve located on top of the therm. housing. if no air, then possibly there is a blockage. Anyway...hang in there, and good luck

Seriously???? I don't sugar coat. I don't stroke.

The poster touts himself as a certified master tech.

If my posts hit close to home, oh well.
 
Dont let a few smart-ass answers, discourage you from asking questions. This site is very informative, and these guys can, and will, help you find the issue you're having. First thing I would do, is try to bleed out any air(if there is any) from the bleeder valve located on top of the therm. housing. if no air, then possibly there is a blockage. Anyway...hang in there, and good luck

Yeah, stay strong muffin... Don't let the smartasses ruin the experience of the vtcoa for you... What's next here, a safe space to protect from words..

Secondly, if the original poster is this ase wonder mechanic, why is this thread still going on with no solution?
 
It didnt hit home to me. It sucks when smart asses like you, cant seem to give a simple answer. He asked a simple question..thats it. Must be to simple, for you to respond with a simple answer without knocking someone down. Really makes new guys, want to come in here and ask questions. Oh wait, thats right, you smart asses seem to know everything, and youve never had to ask..ok..sorry, my bad
 
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It didnt hit home to me. It sucks when smart asses like you, cant seem to give a simple answer. He asked a simple question..thats it. Must be to simple, for you to respond with a simple answer without knocking someone down. Really makes new guys, want to come in here and ask questions. Oh wait, thats right, you smart asses seem to know everything, and youve never had to ask..ok..sorry, my bad

You should have bought a Mustang pal, cuz you are acting like a little girl
 
Oh boy....you got me there....truth hurts..dont it
 
It didnt hit home to me. It sucks when smart asses like you, cant seem to give a simple answer. He asked a simple question..thats it. Must be to simple, for you to respond with a simple answer without knocking someone down. Really makes new guys, want to come in here and ask questions. Oh wait, thats right, you smart asses seem to know everything, and youve never had to ask..ok..sorry, my bad

Sorry nancy, next time someone asks a question (especially if its a doozy coming from a self proclaimed golden wrench ) I'll sit back, refrain from being to the point and let you give him a dutch rudder...
 
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Welcome to the site. Your right about the higher temperature for newer vehicles with regard to emissions. Trucks at my work aren't considered to be running hot until 235 and then only if the CEL comes on. Without the CEL it's assumed that the gauge is wrong first unless there are other indicators , leaks on ground, belt broke, etc.

This is the only active forum that I have found for these trucks. Several great people and/or vendors on here but just like viper car owners there are a few who think that the world shakes when they blink their eyes. The very first thing they will do is call you a name from grade school to prove their superiority and then giggle amongst themselves. You have to find a way to accept it or be alone with your truck.

I've been on several other forums and already forgot more about 60-70s Mopars and B/RB engines than I will ever remember about this one truck and have never seen a forum as rude as this one. Even over the simplest questions we wouldn't chastise someone for not searching through 20 threads with 30 posts each to find the one post that actually gave some information about our question. I compare other Mopar forums and this forum to the GM forums that were looked down upon by the Bloomington Gold Certified corvette guys back in the 90s, hell, maybe they still are.

And like I said, it's not everyone for sure, you've seen the answers already, you just have to decide how much it's worth to get information from.

Let the flamers begin.
 
yes...

Very well said Nuke...!
 
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A whole 4 hrs and no flamin'! There is still hope for this forum
 

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