Are our wheels clearcoated?

Roz

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Several years ago, I stripped the clearcoat off a set of "polished aluminum" wheels and polished the wheels by hand to a chrome-like finish. I was curious if anyone knows if this can be done or not before I ruin a wheel. . .

Thanks in advance folks!
 
If you have the polished wheels, ther are clearcoated.

I have never seen a set, but there are some non-polished wheels out there.
 
Yup, mine are polished. Hmmm, I may attack this soon then. Another thing to chalk up on my "Mod List"! Thanks!:D
 
iwantmysrt said:
Several years ago, I stripped the clearcoat off a set of "polished aluminum" wheels and polished the wheels by hand to a chrome-like finish. I was curious if anyone knows if this can be done or not before I ruin a wheel. . .

Thanks in advance folks!
Just wondering how do you "SAFELY" strip the clear coat off the wheels.:dontknow: I like the wheels but hate the polished look. Been thinking of that since i bought the truck.
 
What is the best thing to use to strip the wheels with? I may try it I have an extra wheel that is scratched up to experiment with.:D
 
Here is a write-up that is similar to what I did to my WS.6 wheels. The same process I will do these wheels, one day. Only difference is I used aircraft stripper, which can be purchased @ Autozone or equal. The Aircraft Stripper was a spray can, so not much contact w/ the chemicals was required. All in all, in the end, the same result.

If you have OEM polished wheels you know how hazy and unattractive they
can look. If you have tried to polish them yourself, you have probably
gotten even more frustrated when you find out they are clear coated from the factory.
Come to find out, its really not expensive or very hard to strip and then
repolish the wheels to get a much deeper/attractive shine.
Things you'll need:
-Stripper Solvent (We used Kleen Strip Auto Stripper from AutoZone)
-Safety Gear (Chemical resistant gloves & regular safety glasses; Lowes etc)
-Small paint brush(es) (to apply the stripper)
-Polishing tools (Mother's Powerball on a corded drill worked great for us)
-Well Ventilated Work Area
Before U Start:
My wheels were in the garage in storage, but it should go without saying
that they have to be off the car to do this :jest: You also need to remove
the center caps and any wheel weights on the front face of the wheel.
Here is a before pic:
polished wheels 001.jpg

1 Apply Stripper- With your safety gear on (it will burn your skin), poor
a little of your solvent into a small container and brush it onto your wheel.
Use alot of it... Cake it on. Only brush in one direction (back and forth will
not work nearly as well). After you get the whole wheel coated generously,
let it sit for 15-45 minutes or until it is completely blistered/bubbled up.
2 Remove Stripper- The next step is to remove the stripper from the
wheel. DO NOT follow the directions on the stripper. DO NOT try to wipe
this stuff off using a rag, and especially do not use steel wool, unless u
want to do a lot of polishing later on with buff wheels and rouge compounds.
(This happened on our first wheel and it took me a long time to get all the
fine scratched off). Take your wheel outside and hose it off with high
pressure water, a garden hose with nozzle worked great for us, but a
pressure washer would be ideal.
3 Dry & Inspect- After u have completely washed the wheel off with
water and u can see no more trace of the blisters or residue on the wheel,
dry it off and inspect the finish. If u can still see any of the clear on it, (will
look spotty) repeat steps 1-3 again until you don't. We only had to coat
each wheel twice to completely remove the clear coat.

At this point, you can see below that there is already a huge difference in finish quality.
polished wheels 004.jpg


4 Polish- Now all you have to do is polish them. We used a Dewalt
corded drill rated at 0-2500 RPMs and a Mothers Powerball. Follow the
directions that came with the powerball and use the liquid aluminum power
polish that is made to work with it. Then take a clean soft cloth and buff it
off by hand.
If you find that you have stubborn stains or scratches that the mothers isn't
taking off, you may want to pick up the drill polishing kit from sears (9.95).
It comes with 3 buffing wheels, 4 rouge compounds and instructions on the
back. It is important to start with the most course compound: black emery,
then white rouge, then red rouge from this kit. You will also find simichrome
applied by hand to be very good at taking off the stained looking places.

Here are the final results:
polished wheels 006.jpg

polished wheels 005.jpg

These look WAYYY better now. Very worthwhile mod on these wheels. You
will be looking at more upkeep but at least you will be able to have a shine
that is much closer to the deep, wet, mirror reflective chrome look.
 
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To maintain the finish, its recommended to use "Zoop Seal" sealant. I never did get around to doing so. Just a FYI, this isn't for daily drivers. The brake dust and such would scratch the wheels to no end. Thats why they're clearcoated to begin with. When I had my wheels, I cleaned them regularly w/ glass cleaner, worked like a champ! The beaty part is, you don't have to worry about the "chrome" flaking off. If you maintain it, it will last!:cool:
 
Have them media blasted. Much easier then trying to strip yourself. The clear is a powdercoat and is pretty tough. As for further polishing I did the obvious outside but also sanded and polished the inside of each rim...got rid of those stupid ridge lines. Once you've got it polished now you want to have it coated for protection. Otherwise, you'll be spending every weekend pulling your wheels and repolishing.

Powdercoating is a great product but even the best clears still dulls the final finish. A relatively new product is a ceramic based clear. (aka ceramic micro coat and cerakote) Many of the aftermarket wheel suppliers are beginning to use this with great results. Here is a good supplier... www.specializedcoatingshb.com

You apply it with HVLP but only at .5 mil thickness (very thin!). Its an ambient cure but does take a good 5 days to reach full hardness. After almost a year since I've done mine water still beads right off as well as huge reduction in brake dust/dirt. The surface is much smoother/harder than powdercoating.
 
Last edited:
Chuck B said:
Have them media blasted. Much easier then trying to strip yourself. The clear is a powdercoat and is pretty tough. As for further polishing I did the obvious outside but also sanded and polished the inside of each rim...got rid of those stupid ridge lines. Once you've got it polished now you want to have it coated for protection. Otherwise, you'll be spending every weekend pulling your wheels and repolishing.

Powdercoating is a great product but even the best clears still dulls the final finish. A relatively new product is a ceramic based clear. (aka ceramic micro coat and cerakote) Many of the aftermarket wheel suppliers are beginning to use this with great results. Here is a good supplier... www.specializedcoatingshb.com

You apply it with HVLP but only at .5 mil thickness (very thin!). Its an ambient cure but does take a good 5 days to reach full hardness. After almost a year since I've done mine water still beads right off as well as huge reduction in brake dust/dirt. The surface is much smoother/harder than powdercoating.

Interesting! Got any pics? I have a SataJet HVLP gun, or do I need a "cerakote" specific gun? TIA!
 
Sorry no pix but I'll be playing around in the garage this weekend so I'll snap some when I pull the wheels. After I completed two of my wheels my cousin and came by, not knowing what I did, and asked when did I get them chromed. Side by side the powdercoat definitely has duller finished look to them.

Your Sata will work just fine though I'd use a Jam gun myself. I had to practice a bit with shooting this material. Its viscosity is much thinner then base coats and making sure to only get .5 mil was tough for me. Too used to laying on med wet coats with my regular gun. I actually got a couple runs in my first wheel. Can we say pissed! Since I figured I'd just ruined a couple hours work I went ahead and carefully wiped the run thinking maybe it would stay wet long enough to lay itself back down....sure enough. I had plenty of time before it flashed. :dancing: Quickly switched to my jam gun. Easier to control how much material I was putting down.
 

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