Front Brakes Tutorial?

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Kevan

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Hey folks. I was just going thru the 2005 service manual prior to putting in some new pads and found that the service manual is missing A LOT of information regarding the 2005 front brakes. It seems they forgot to label about 80% of the parts.
And before someone pipes up: yes- they are different than the 2004's brakes.

Next time someone does a pad change on an 05, if they could do a quick tutorial with some pics, I'd appreciate it (as I think the rest of the forum would).

TIA
 
So, am I the only one with front brakes on an 05, or has no one seen that section of the manual (page 800)?
:D
 
Off topic here but my my 05 QC breaks squeak loudly under moderate pressure. Is this common on these trucks?

Are you replacing the pads because they're worn or are you upgrading?

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Haven't used the service manual, I would assume you just do a brake job on these as any other disk-brake job. Remove the wheels, remove the caliper, push the piston back, throw some new pads on, and reinstall everything??

-Red
 
You do not have to remove the calipers to change the pads. All you have to do is remove the large allen head bolt that holds the springs, remove the springs and the pads come right out. Reverse the process (and compress the pistons) and voila you're done.
 
Thanks TYF. I knew there was something different about these compared to the brakes I've worked on before. That single bolt and the spring clips had me wondering.

I'm off to the Craftsman store tomorrow to score a set of LARGE Allen head sockets. My current set only goes to 10mm, and I think the brake pad bolt is 12mm or 13mm.

Looks like I get to do the tutorial, eh? :)
BTW- do you happen to know the torque setting for that particular bolt?

Insipid- I'm replacing them because they squeak incredibly badly from 20mph to 2mph. It's so bad, school bus drivers have given me the finger. I honestly don't need race brakes on there. I'm looking at some ceramic pads to keep the dust as low as possible. Here's another thread about brake pads:
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510
Searching here will reveal more threads.
 
some pics
good time to clean them and/or repaint them.
I did not put any anti-squeel oil on them. Couldn't hurt to try.
 

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Texas Yellow Fever said:
You do not have to remove the calipers to change the pads. All you have to do is remove the large allen head bolt that holds the springs, remove the springs and the pads come right out. Reverse the process (and compress the pistons) and voila you're done.
Click to expand...

I've done alot of brakes and other work on my vehicles over the years, but not on the 10 yet or brakes with this type caliper. Being able to swap the pads w/o pulling the cal. off sound awesome, but how do you compress the pistons with the cal still on, and I assume rotor is still in there, right? I suppose there is a special tool just for them? Usually use a big c-clamp my previous jobs, does anything like this fit in there while all is still mounted. You can't also take rotor off w/o removing caliper, can you? Thanks.
 
Thanks for the pics, Bone! Those are great!

MYT- Yeah, I'm with you. Prior pad replacement had become pretty standard. These, however, are a whole new beast.

I'll let you guys know how it comes out. I'm working on a plexiglass 'shim' to hold the pistons in place as it pushes the pad out. It'll be something like that.

I'm not sure about rotor removal. I think for that, the caliper does need to come off.
 
make sure and get the rotors turned the ebc pads will squeal too i used a da sander on mine after i had them turned. you got to get the glaze of of them.
 
MYTRAM said:
I've done alot of brakes and other work on my vehicles over the years, but not on the 10 yet or brakes with this type caliper. Being able to swap the pads w/o pulling the cal. off sound awesome, but how do you compress the pistons with the cal still on, and I assume rotor is still in there, right? I suppose there is a special tool just for them? Usually use a big c-clamp my previous jobs, does anything like this fit in there while all is still mounted. You can't also take rotor off w/o removing caliper, can you? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I used a large flat pry bar to ease the pistons back in the calipers, then used a 150 grit sandpaper on a sanding block to take the glaze off the rotors. If you want/need to remove the rotors, the calipers are going to have to come off.
 
eddie102870 said:
make sure and get the rotors turned the ebc pads will squeal too i used a da sander on mine after i had them turned. you got to get the glaze of of them.
Click to expand...
ditto what eddie just said, you really should turn the rotors if you are puttin new pads on!
 
Texas Yellow Fever said:
I used a large flat pry bar to ease the pistons back in the calipers, then used a 150 grit sandpaper on a sanding block to take the glaze off the rotors. If you want/need to remove the rotors, the calipers are going to have to come off.
Click to expand...

Didn't think you could remove rotor w/o pulling caliper, that's why I was wondering about clearance to reset pistons.
 
Well, no tutorial folks. I'm too pissed off at Friction Master (now know as Friction Apprentice).
The pads that I picked up at Advance Auto Parts (Friction Master Ceramic Pads #1085C) did NOT drop into place. They do NOT fit the 05 SRT-10.

They're close, but they do not fit. Each lower notch on the pad is about 0.3mm too small width-wise. They will not seat properly over the guide rods that they are supposed to ride on. I don't know if this is from the nice baked-on finish or what, but they don't fit.

I filed the same notch on each pad and brought the notches to their proper spacing of 15mm. With that, they slipped on nice and tight. Almost no play 'front-to-back' (the stock pads had about 1.5mm of play).

I Scotchbrited the rotors to remove whatever glazing I could. The rotors look brand new, so I will get them turned next pad change.

I'll give the new pads some break in time tomorrow and report my results next weekend. We also have a road trip to Rhode Island coming up, so I'll compile some data during that.

Tips:
- The "Disc Brake Pad Hold Down Center Bolt" (the bolt you remove to change out the pads) requires a 12mm hex socket to remove/install.
- The bolt should be tightened to 85 ft.lbs. according to the manual. If you don't have a torque wrench, buy one. If you're too cheap, BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE BOLT!!!!! use a Sharpie and put a line from the center of the botom of the bolt all the way onto the caliper itself (you can see the bottom of the bolt as it comes all the way thru the caliper). This will tell you when you're at or really close to 85 ft.lbs. The ink can be removed after you're finished with a swipe of rubbing alcohol.

What was supposed to be an hour-long pad change, turned into a 5-hour pad change. All thanks to Friction Apprentice.
----------------------------------------------------------

Friction Master,

My labor rate starts at $185/hr. for same-day. You don't want to know what my machining rate is for same-day (on a Sunday).
Unless you show me drop-in pads for the 2005 Dodge Ram SRT-10 or a check, I will use a different manufacturers brake pad next time.

Sincerely,

Kevan
 
Kevan said:
Well, no tutorial folks. I'm too pissed off at Friction Master (now know as Friction Apprentice).
The pads that I picked up at Advance Auto Parts (Friction Master Ceramic Pads #1085C) did NOT drop into place. They do NOT fit the 05 SRT-10.

They're close, but they do not fit. Each lower notch on the pad is about 0.3mm too small width-wise. They will not seat properly over the guide rods that they are supposed to ride on. I don't know if this is from the nice baked-on finish or what, but they don't fit.

I filed the same notch on each pad and brought the notches to their proper spacing of 15mm. With that, they slipped on nice and tight. Almost no play 'front-to-back' (the stock pads had about 1.5mm of play).Kevan
Click to expand...
Been there. I also had to open the notches on each pad for them to fit over the guide posts. I've got about 1500-2000 miles on mine and the passener side is begining to squeal again. I'm planning on pulling the rotors and getting them turned this afternoon (didn't do it at pad change). So far I like them. They are much less dusty and no noise until recently. Who else other than EBC and FM make ceramic pads for the '05?
 
Advance Auto Parts also had a set of organic pads from Bendix (about $90 for the fronts).
If anyone has any experience with those, please post.

I didn't really get a chance to test the brakes out last night. As I was heading out of the neighborhood at about 2AM (so I could break 25 mph), I came across a lost dog- a small boxer/pug mix named Yoda. She was looking wandering around close to the main road, so I scooped her up and did doggie watch until 7AM when I walked her home.

It's raining pretty solid here today. I guess a wet test is in order. :)
 
Kevan said:
Well, no tutorial folks. I'm too pissed off at Friction Master (now know as Friction Apprentice).
The pads that I picked up at Advance Auto Parts (Friction Master Ceramic Pads #1085C) did NOT drop into place. They do NOT fit the 05 SRT-10.

They're close, but they do not fit. Each lower notch on the pad is about 0.3mm too small width-wise. They will not seat properly over the guide rods that they are supposed to ride on. I don't know if this is from the nice baked-on finish or what, but they don't fit.

I filed the same notch on each pad and brought the notches to their proper spacing of 15mm. With that, they slipped on nice and tight. Almost no play 'front-to-back' (the stock pads had about 1.5mm of play).

I Scotchbrited the rotors to remove whatever glazing I could. The rotors look brand new, so I will get them turned next pad change.

I'll give the new pads some break in time tomorrow and report my results next weekend. We also have a road trip to Rhode Island coming up, so I'll compile some data during that.

Tips:
- The "Disc Brake Pad Hold Down Center Bolt" (the bolt you remove to change out the pads) requires a 12mm hex socket to remove/install.
- The bolt should be tightened to 85 ft.lbs. according to the manual. If you don't have a torque wrench, buy one. If you're too cheap, BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE BOLT!!!!! use a Sharpie and put a line from the center of the botom of the bolt all the way onto the caliper itself (you can see the bottom of the bolt as it comes all the way thru the caliper). This will tell you when you're at or really close to 85 ft.lbs. The ink can be removed after you're finished with a swipe of rubbing alcohol.

What was supposed to be an hour-long pad change, turned into a 5-hour pad change. All thanks to Friction Apprentice.
----------------------------------------------------------

Friction Master,

My labor rate starts at $185/hr. for same-day. You don't want to know what my machining rate is for same-day (on a Sunday).
Unless you show me drop-in pads for the 2005 Dodge Ram SRT-10 or a check, I will use a different manufacturers brake pad next time.

Sincerely,

Kevan
Click to expand...
wont take them long to squeal agian, ask me how i know? ebc's boomer sent me dropped in took longet to get the tire off than it did to swap out pads.
 
What did you end up using to push the pistons back, Kevan? :confused:

So, you guys are just removing the center allen head bolt, eh.... Well, hell, that should be easy! :rock: (I was trying to remove the whole caliper, and it was being a PITA. :eek: )
 
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