Upgrading clutch....questions.

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John02SS

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I'm gonna go ahead and do a new clutch and hyd system on the 10. Doing the Viper Master/Slave combo and the Centerforce DF clutch. I do have a few questions though. I have wholesale accounts and can get the Master, slave, and clutch though my business but want to be sure I'm getting the right parts.

1. Part number for the Correct Viper master and slave.

2. On the slave, some have added a shim to the kit for the slave to move the slave further forward. I believe the Roe kit is this way. What are your thoughts on this? It moves the engagement point closer to the top, but the stock engagement point is pretty nice.

3. Flywheel.............the Fidanza seems to be hit and miss and I can see if maybe having a lil issue moving 5000 lbs. DC Performance has a chromemoly unit that seems nice and weight wise seems to be between the stocker and fidanza. Anyone have any input on it?

4. On the master, the kits out there includes a plate to mount it. Does the viper unit not come with the plate to mount it?
 
jmb justin will take all the guess work out of it and get to you quick...he has all you need and offers the flywheel...
 
The comments above are correct and you will not go wrong with JMB or Roe.

On the Fidanza...I had it for a year...for me it just was not heavy enough. Light makes for quick high revs...but that in my opinion is for a light vehicle. Our trucks need rotating weight and momentum because they weight 5200 lbs.

I changed back to the stock flywheel and the truck became much more street compliant. Rolling from a stop was much easier, with the stock flywheel. I can idle off from a stop, but with the Fidanza additional rpm were required and it was just no fun in traffic. Just my experience, for what it may be worth.
 
Prof said:
The comments above are correct and you will not go wrong with JMB or Roe.

On the Fidanza...I had it for a year...for me it just was not heavy enough. Light makes for quick high revs...but that in my opinion is for a light vehicle. Our trucks need rotating weight and momentum because they weight 5200 lbs.

I changed back to the stock flywheel and the truck became much more street compliant. Rolling from a stop was much easier, with the stock flywheel. I can idle off from a stop, but with the Fidanza additional rpm were required and it was just no fun in traffic. Just my experience, for what it may be worth.
Click to expand...

So,we do agree on truck issues at least ;) :D

Stay away from the fidanza !!!!!!

I had it and went back to stock,MUCH better all around !

You should use the shim for the slave.
The master can be mounted with 1/2" spacers to lower the pedal to stock height.I didn't need a bracket.

The fluid resevoir can be mounted just about anywhere.

You will love this set-up.

If you don't have one already,get a short throw shifter ,either B&M or X-Metal.There are a few used ones around,just post a WTB thread.
 
Thanks fellas. I already have a B&M and really haven't had any issues at all finding gears. I'm gonna be pulling a 4 wheeler and lil trailer behind it during hunting season and wanted to upgrade the clutch so I won't have any issues.

I know Roe and JMB have the kits, but I can save quite a bit as I own a shop and can get all the parts at wholesale. I have Justins stuff on the truck, great guy to deal with!
 
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Check Roe anyway...he is an authorized MOPAR dealer...his costs may beat the ones you can get...
 
John02SS said:
Thanks fellas. I already have a B&M and really haven't had any issues at all finding gears. I'm gonna be pulling a 4 wheeler and lil trailer behind it during hunting season and wanted to upgrade the clutch so I won't have any issues.

I know Roe and JMB have the kits, but I can save quite a bit as I own a shop and can get all the parts at wholesale. I have Justins stuff on the truck, great guy to deal with!
Click to expand...
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=584873&postcount=2
 
If you use the stock flywheel (resurfaced of course) what ever you take of of it ( lets say .010) you will have to add an additional shim( of .010 or whatever is removed) behind the throwout bearing to retain the correct peddle height:D :D
 
includemeout said:
If you use the stock flywheel (resurfaced of course) what ever you take of of it ( lets say .010) you will have to add an additional shim( of .010 or whatever is removed) behind the throwout bearing to retain the correct peddle height:D :D
Click to expand...


So,if I understand this correctly,if I use the stock flywheel,no shim is needed and the pedal engagement height will remain the same ?

I have the pedal height at stock by spacers on the firewall

What I want is a lower engagement point.If I remove the shim,will it engage at a lower point ,i.e., sooner ?:dontknow:
 
HOT RAM said:
So,if I understand this correctly,if I use the stock flywheel,no shim is needed and the pedal engagement height will remain the same ?

I have the pedal height at stock by spacers on the firewall

What I want is a lower engagement point.If I remove the shim,will it engage at a lower point ,i.e., sooner ?:dontknow:
Click to expand...

No ya still need the firewall/ master Cyl. spacer ( can use different thickness to adjust peddle height) won't change engagement,just make it closer or farther to the floor (unless there is just not enough peddle travel)

Without Adding the Additional Shim to the throwout it may not travel far enough to completely disengage ( although that may not show up until there is a bit of wear on the clutch. ( will still need the shims that come with the kit.)
 
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We use the Chromoly flywheel on the trucks. Its much lighter than the stocker but has more inertia to get you off the line. The biggest benefits
are it's ability to take much more heat and a bigger friction area than the aluminum wheels. In stock for $439.00
 
includemeout said:
No ya still need the firewall/ master Cyl. spacer ( can use different thickness to adjust peddle height) won't change engagement,just make it closer or farther to the floor (unless there is just not enough peddle travel)

Without Adding the Additional Shim to the throwout it may not travel far enough to completely disengage ( although that may not show up until there is a bit of wear on the clutch. ( will still need the shims that come with the kit.)
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Ditto, you gotta have the shims. There was a learning curve for the cf clutch back in 04. Roe and Boomer figured out the solution to make it work. Its a custom made part. Wont work properly without em.

patrick
 
I've got a clutch coming, prolly buy the hyd from vendors just to support the board and it's vendors. It's worth a lil extra coin!
 
John02SS said:
I've got a clutch coming, prolly buy the hyd from vendors just to support the board and it's vendors. It's worth a lil extra coin!
Click to expand...


:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
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