Thank god for the Hennessey advice

"But that is what we do, and I would also recommend a rev limiter to a few hundred less RPM than the stock red line. You wont lose much power and it is a cheap insurance policy."

Can this easily be done through re-programming the ECM or do we have to use a stand-alone unit ?
 
I have been turning wrenches for 36 years and worked on diesels and a whole bunch of hot rods in that time. I have done some research and if I was going to hot rod my Viper or Viper truck I would do 4 things.
#1 Deburr and polish all the oil passages in the block.
#2 Chamfer all the oil holes in the crank more than stock
#3 Install a motor plate to relieve stress on the side of the block from egg shaping the cylinders under power
#4 Purchase a dry sump oil system from Dailey Engineering like the one pictured below.
 

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HOT RAM said:
"But that is what we do, and I would also recommend a rev limiter to a few hundred less RPM than the stock red line. You wont lose much power and it is a cheap insurance policy."

Can this easily be done through re-programming the ECM or do we have to use a stand-alone unit ?
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I think the easy way to do it is using the stand alone little snap in pills or just being conscious of your RPM while racing.
 
HaulinAsp said:
Nothing for nothing but I spoke to Dave once on the phone about this oiling issue and several pm's- he has been nothing but pleasant, and answered my questions and seemed quite helpful...
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Thanks for the welcome guys! It was touch and go there for a bit:) but I expected that.
 
Dave Golder said:
Speaking to the Techs about this I will give you the information we have and what we are doing to combat the problem. they believe it is caused by cavitation of the oil at speed. the more sustained load the car is under during high RPM the bigger the chance at failing. It has happened on Stock bottom ends and modified bottom ends and both times to me at speeds around 200mph.

For a gen 2 their is not much of a fix other than leaving the clearance on the #3 rod bearing on the loose side of acceptable clearance.

For Gen 3 we also do that but we also send our Oil Pump covers out to be modified. It involves modifying the cover and also having a special gear made.

I am sorry I can't give out the information on who we have do that because we also supply those covers to our competition and really have no desire to lose that profit stream. This is not a cheap process and retails for a little over $900

But that is what we do, and I would also recommend a rev limiter to a few hundred less RPM than the stock red line. You wont lose much power and it is a cheap insurance policy.

If anyone wants or needs this done I will be happy to arrange it as well as offer a discount to you to try to mend some fences.

Sorry I can't go into more detail but that is exactly how we try to combat it. is it fool proof no.....but does it help.....absolutely.
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good information, dave..... :)
have you had any failures post this mod ??:dontknow:
what's the best way to get hold of you if members wish to have you do this mod ?
 
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Modified engines will and do fail. No matter what you do, what precautions you take...the risk/reward formula is inversely proportional. Every build will come apart at some time...the bigger and more powerful the build the higher the risk.

To think that there will not be failures is just not the way things work. These engines come apart stock, with little grandmothers driving them. Every performance mod brings you closer to the edge...that is part of the formula, and without that recognition you are just fooling yourself. The reward is the thrill while it lives. If you don't enjoy the process of the rebuild, and if you are not funded to do so...that should be factored into the original plan.

Opps, sorry, I will get out from behind the lectern now.
 
In other words, if money isn't and can't be set aside for an inevitable rebuild, get out now while you still can.. OR keep it as garage furniture.

I often dreamed as a youngster what it would be like to be a grandfather with my toy in the garage, engine half taken apart and under a car cover talking about the day I get her back together. :dontknow: Looks like I'm going to live my dream after all.
 
moparracing said:
good information, dave..... :)
have you had any failures post this mod ??:dontknow:
what's the best way to get hold of you if members wish to have you do this mod ?
Click to expand...

Since doing this we have not lost a block, but like Prof just said, it is far from being a cure all. It is just one of those things that helps hold it all together.
 
It doesn't matter who is running the shop.. or how good of a guy you claim to be... H screwed to many people for anyone to even think of going back to his shop no matter how good they claim there work is.... the owner is a crook .. do not support him.... period..
 
I will walk through the Fires of Hell for my friends.....If Walt says he is done with it then so am I....Love ya Walt :rock:
 
Dave Golder said:
I think the easy way to do it is using the stand alone little snap in pills or just being conscious of your RPM while racing.
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So......................where can these be bought ? And,where exactly do they snap in ? apprx how much ?
 
My approach is to set the Vector Shift light at 5500...its never been above that...revs beyond that are just wasted in my opinion...some think otherwise...but that is what my reading of my dyno leads me to believe.
 
Prof said:
My approach is to set the Vector Shift light at 5500...its never been above that...revs beyond that are just wasted in my opinion...some think otherwise...but that is what my reading of my dyno leads me to believe.
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Very true Prof, looking at a dyno chart of a truck , you will notice after 5500rpms the hp starts to fall off, no sense going much more than that, heck mine is set at 4900rpms, I'm jsut a slow shifter;)
 
HOT RAM said:
I am looking for a safety for when I might happen to miss 3rd and hit 1st.:eek:
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Rev Limiter wont solve that problem :) It is going to over rev period if that happens. You may not lose #3 but you will have about 20 bent tulips:)
 
HOT RAM said:
So......................where can these be bought ? And,where exactly do they snap in ? apprx how much ?
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I will find out from the guys in the shop in the morning.
 
Dave Golder said:
Since doing this we have not lost a block, it is far from being a cure all. It is just one of those things that helps hold it all together. If any of you would like to contact me my number is 979-885-1300 or my email is dave at hennesseyperformance dot com. (got to keep the email scrapping programs away.)
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thanks, dave. :)

any idea what kind of a discount off the $900.00 you were talking about ?
 
I hear this is adapting the 2008 oiling to these engines is a improvement- Is this true?
 
I have allways had high respects for JH, I know that he had problems in the past, and yes there were quite some large open wounds on this site.

But I think that both him and Dave are doing the right thing by personally posting here and trying to make amends, granted yes it will take time to heal those wounds but you have to start somewhere.

Though I have returned my 10 back to stock, and am in process of selling it, only because I want to buy a Viper car.

Now I am not at the point where I am prepared to buy from JH yet, but I do believe in a company/persons ability to make amends and do the right thing to regain the trust of customers.

With that said, because I am close to making a decision on a car, what I will be doing with it, and who I will have do the build, I am going to watch and see how this unfolds, because I know for one that I can not afford to buy and have a car built only to have the engine grenade and not have the builder stand behind his work.
 
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