Oil Cooler

C

Chuck B

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I've been working on a Mod list as of late and one of the mods includes installing a REAL oil cooler. One of my dealers is www.raceroffroad.com so who better than to help with a customized fabrication and engineering. These guys put together, from scratch, some amazing offroad machines.

If you look at our oil cooler its also an exchanger. Oil and coolant flow through the cooler. I can only guess that the reason Dodge put coolant through the oil cooler was to aid in getting the oil up to temperature quickly after startup. For those in colder area's it makes sense but for those of us in the desert SW....I don't think so. My truck struggles to keep coolant and oil temps near 200F during summer here in Phoenix.

The other thing you'll notice is air flow is greatly influenced by the factory cold air induction setup. The factory setup funnels cold air to the factory air box as well as down and around to the oil cooler. I know many here have removed the plastic on the hood/grill but doing so makes the oil cooler less effective though many have reported great reduction in underhood temps.

The Plan....fabricate a new oil cooler with mounts for clean straight forward install. Key for straight forward install would be to utilize the factory oil cooler lines. Ideally, simply disconnect both at the factory cooler and reconnect to the aftermarket oil cooler. Then simply cap off the factory cooler leaving on the coolant to flow as original.

Racer Offroad has already taken measurements, thread size and pitch and will CAD a design then send out to a manufacturer for build. They recommended a Turbo Innercooler style cooler for this application.

My thoughts....Installing it on the passenger side of the radiator allows use of factory oil lines, good airflow with removal of factory CAI on grill but when cold weather arrives you can simply reinstall the factory CAI back on the grill greatly reducing air flow over the cooler.

Obviously doing a one off is going to be expensive. Ideally I'd like to share costs with others but regardless pending any reason NOT to go this route I'm moving forward with my first stage of modifications.

Your thoughts? Interests? Thanks!!
 
Chuck B said:
My truck struggles to keep coolant and oil temps near 200F during summer here in Phoenix.

Your thoughts? Interests? Thanks!!
Click to expand...

:dito: Same here in FL... been looking into colder running / ops temp solutions here... the truck ran "hot" before the SC (200 oil temp / 210 Water Temp)...and we all know about the heat soak loss.
Same with the SC...and with the 172 stat in her...Water Wetter...:dontknow: Not sure how much cooler I can get the truck to run...but it would be nice to keep her at 180. Paxton fellas run cool...real cool... cooler than I ran N/A in the summer here.:dontknow: The flash must help...having the fan kick/run longer.:dontknow: SC design is a factor... but again...I ran the same temps before the sc as well.... just takes longer to cool down with the TMTS.
I figured with a better radiator/ oil cooler/ Flex a Lite fan / flash ...it might get me closer to that goal.:dontknow: Have not thought about it "too much" due to finances, and not being able to execute a solution... for now.
I just wait for cooler weather....:D
Thanks for the R&D... and I am sure there will be plenty of replies to follow.
 
Some on here had a link to a setup like that, he used his truck for drifting and had oil cooling problems...
 
I'd be interested if it was a clean design and execution. :rock:

(also suffering in the PHX heat, but BG flash helped and 170 tstat scheduled this weekend).
 
attila said:
why don't you just put an aftermarket cooler in a good cool location?
Click to expand...

Thats what I'm doing however all current aftermarket coolers would require jerry rigging or at the very least custom made oil lines running to and from the cooler. I'm going the route of having a cooler built that will accept our currently installed factory lines.....thats the goal anyways. Also, most all current oil coolers are really not that efficient. Turbo style cooler are much more efficient given the size.

I also contemplated going with cooler w/ fans attached then mounted in another location. Then tying in a thermo switch controlled by the CPU but discarded the idea as too much custom work. I like to keep things simple.

In my current plan there is no electrical and no other parts to make fit. Simply bolt in and screw on factory oil lines. My Arizona location (warm to very hot temps) would be ok running without the grill cover year round and those who do live/drive in cold weather can either easily return to factory configuration or install the plastic deflector in the grill thus not allowing oil temps to run too cool.
 
NBT said:
:dito: Same here in FL... been looking into colder running / ops temp solutions here... the truck ran "hot" before the SC (200 oil temp / 210 Water Temp)...and we all know about the heat soak loss.
Same with the SC...and with the 172 stat in her...Water Wetter...:dontknow: Not sure how much cooler I can get the truck to run...but it would be nice to keep her at 180. Paxton fellas run cool...real cool... cooler than I ran N/A in the summer here.:dontknow: The flash must help...having the fan kick/run longer.:dontknow: SC design is a factor... but again...I ran the same temps before the sc as well.... just takes longer to cool down with the TMTS.
I figured with a better radiator/ oil cooler/ Flex a Lite fan / flash ...it might get me closer to that goal.:dontknow: Have not thought about it "too much" due to finances, and not being able to execute a solution... for now.
I just wait for cooler weather....:D
Thanks for the R&D... and I am sure there will be plenty of replies to follow.
Click to expand...


I 172 stat really won't make any difference in our situation and changing the flash for when the fan kicks on again when engine coolant/oil temps are running over 200F isn't going to help. Reflash and stat will simply get the cooling system to start a bit earlier in shedding heat. If the system can't over come the amount of heat when the stat is fully open and fan is on full then another solution is required. Going after the oil first is easier/cheaper and more beneficial in my opinion.
 
B&M Cooler
Derale Cooler
Perma-Cool Cooler

All have fittings that can be adapted to. Be-Cool, Derale, Flex-a-lite, all have thermostat kits that you can wire in with the fans.

Has anyone tried changing your engine coolant to a different ratio than stock? Water is the cooling medium in your engine. All the anti-freeze does is prevent the water from boiling or freezing. I have run 60% water to 40% anti-freeze ratios in warmer climates since you don't need to worry about freezing. 40% anti-freeze is more than adequate to prevent boiling. I used to even run 70/30 in drag car years ago. The improved oil cooler is not a bad way to go either. Water just has better cooling properties than oil.

-Muzzy
 
Muzzy said:
All have fittings that can be adapted to. Be-Cool, Derale, Flex-a-lite, all have thermostat kits that you can wire in with the fans.

Has anyone tried changing your engine coolant to a different ratio than stock? Water is the cooling medium in your engine. All the anti-freeze does is prevent the water from boiling or freezing. I have run 60% water to 40% anti-freeze ratios in warmer climates since you don't need to worry about freezing. 40% anti-freeze is more than adequate to prevent boiling. I used to even run 70/30 in drag car years ago. The improved oil cooler is not a bad way to go either. Water just has better cooling properties than oil.

-Muzzy
Click to expand...

Muzzy,
Good info...thanks! I've looked at these alternatives and think I can do better for not that much more. I may rethink the thermo kits. As for changing coolant ratio....coolant does far more than help prevent freeze. Its main purpose is to prevent corrosion by inhibiting the chemical reaction when you have disimilar metals in direct contact or in a liquid. Coolant, as is most liquids, is an electrical conduit. Your coolant has additives to protect your engine. Over time these additives are removed/lost due to exposure, heat and electrolysis. Running the ratio's you mention is fine in my experience but in our situation (lots of disimilar metals) I've found coolant needs to be replaced every 2 yrs to maintain the proper protection.
 
Chuck B said:
I've been working on a Mod list as of late and one of the mods includes installing a REAL oil cooler. One of my dealers is www.raceroffroad.com so who better than to help with a customized fabrication and engineering. These guys put together, from scratch, some amazing offroad machines.

If you look at our oil cooler its also an exchanger. Oil and coolant flow through the cooler. I can only guess that the reason Dodge put coolant through the oil cooler was to aid in getting the oil up to temperature quickly after startup. For those in colder area's it makes sense but for those of us in the desert SW....I don't think so. My truck struggles to keep coolant and oil temps near 200F during summer here in Phoenix.

The other thing you'll notice is air flow is greatly influenced by the factory cold air induction setup. The factory setup funnels cold air to the factory air box as well as down and around to the oil cooler. I know many here have removed the plastic on the hood/grill but doing so makes the oil cooler less effective though many have reported great reduction in underhood temps.

The Plan....fabricate a new oil cooler with mounts for clean straight forward install. Key for straight forward install would be to utilize the factory oil cooler lines. Ideally, simply disconnect both at the factory cooler and reconnect to the aftermarket oil cooler. Then simply cap off the factory cooler leaving on the coolant to flow as original.

Racer Offroad has already taken measurements, thread size and pitch and will CAD a design then send out to a manufacturer for build. They recommended a Turbo Innercooler style cooler for this application.

My thoughts....Installing it on the passenger side of the radiator allows use of factory oil lines, good airflow with removal of factory CAI on grill but when cold weather arrives you can simply reinstall the factory CAI back on the grill greatly reducing air flow over the cooler.

Obviously doing a one off is going to be expensive. Ideally I'd like to share costs with others but regardless pending any reason NOT to go this route I'm moving forward with my first stage of modifications.

Your thoughts? Interests? Thanks!!
Click to expand...

ID BE INTERESTED BUT WOULD LIKE TO TEE INTO EXISTING SYSTEM AND MOUNT UP FRONT,WHAT DO YOU THINK,SHOULD BE A SIMPLE ADAPTION.:)
 
yellowfeverquad said:
ID BE INTERESTED BUT WOULD LIKE TO TEE INTO EXISTING SYSTEM AND MOUNT UP FRONT,WHAT DO YOU THINK,SHOULD BE A SIMPLE ADAPTION.:)
Click to expand...

We finalized the size of the cooler today. The Company fabricating will begin in 2 weeks. I'll be bypassing the factory cooler/exchanger. Factory cooler is an exchanger and having 180F plus coolant as the alternate exchange side doesn't make sense if first goal is to cool the oil. With the new cooler you'll simply disconnect the two lines from the factory cooler and then attach to the new cooler which will be mounted close by. The new placement will have full air flow from the grill.

We've already determined which fan to go with if necessary as well options to have manual control or let the CPU control the fans. I'll run tests before going to that expense with just the cooler installed and placed in the main air stream unlike the factory cooler.

I spent an hour or so going over some of their $200K offroad trucks and found several great future mods I may try and tackle with the SRT10. ;)
 
I like the sound of all of this.... How much time to install...?

It can get hotter than shit here..........

D
 
Chuck B said:
We finalized the size of the cooler today. The Company fabricating will begin in 2 weeks. I'll be bypassing the factory cooler/exchanger. Factory cooler is an exchanger and having 180F plus coolant as the alternate exchange side doesn't make sense if first goal is to cool the oil. With the new cooler you'll simply disconnect the two lines from the factory cooler and then attach to the new cooler which will be mounted close by. The new placement will have full air flow from the grill.

We've already determined which fan to go with if necessary as well options to have manual control or let the CPU control the fans. I'll run tests before going to that expense with just the cooler installed and placed in the main air stream unlike the factory cooler.

I spent an hour or so going over some of their $200K offroad trucks and found several great future mods I may try and tackle with the SRT10. ;)
Click to expand...

If I recall correctly, the oil lines require a special tool to disconnect and install. Some kind of compression fitting? Also don't you have to use new lines once you disconnect this type of fitting?
 
If we we are exploring oil coolers, why not add steel braid lines too, that replace those with the lousy fittings that leak on so many trucks...?
 
Yes, you do need special tools to release the tabs inside the quick disconnect fitting, but the line/fitting is certainly reusable.
 
Excellent Chuck B!!!! I am def. interested in the oil cooler...although personally, I think the oil cooler will be enough by itself...I don't want to add in a fan in addition to the cooler.

BTW...I am glad to see that you are going with a "stand-alone" system and not tying the new oil cooler in with the existing set up going through the radiator...

Thanks for all your research and work into this project!

Joe
 
Chuck B said:
We finalized the size of the cooler today. The Company fabricating will begin in 2 weeks. I'll be bypassing the factory cooler/exchanger. Factory cooler is an exchanger and having 180F plus coolant as the alternate exchange side doesn't make sense if first goal is to cool the oil. With the new cooler you'll simply disconnect the two lines from the factory cooler and then attach to the new cooler which will be mounted close by. The new placement will have full air flow from the grill.

We've already determined which fan to go with if necessary as well options to have manual control or let the CPU control the fans. I'll run tests before going to that expense with just the cooler installed and placed in the main air stream unlike the factory cooler.

I spent an hour or so going over some of their $200K offroad trucks and found several great future mods I may try and tackle with the SRT10. ;)
Click to expand...

THANKS FOR THE UPDATE,PLEASE KEEP ME INFORMED,OHH AND THANKS FOR PASSING ON THE INFO CHEERS:D
 
Ok, spent more time at Avondale Dodge bugging Patrick. I had asked him to order in the oil lines and connectors to see for myself what was involved and if a special tool was needed. I'm pleased to inform that no special tool is needed. Its a pretty simple connection and both Patrick and I were surprised in the fact that when a leak does occur the standard practice is to replace the oil lines and connectors. The only thing needed to replace is the connector. In fact simply replacing one of the two rubber O rings is really all you need to do for a repair. Though, since the connector - part#50373168AC - retails for $5.10 why waste time sourcing proper sized O-ring(s).

As for the special tool....again, it is not required. You simply slide the plastic cover back and using a pick or small flat blade you remove the C-clip. Once removed the hose simply slides out of the connector. The connector then simply unscrews. Fact is you can simply unscrew the connector without having to disconnect the line if all you are doing is unhooking the line from either the engine block or factory oil cooler. This makes what I'm trying to do very easy.

For those who may want to switch to a steel braided line with AN connectors I'll drop off one of the connectors at my dealer, Racer Offroad, and see if they can put a kit together that makes sense for our application. My intention is to make this as simple as possible using factory parts and existing mounting holes for the aftermarket oil cooler.

Also of note, Patrick and I concluded the oil temp sending unit and the oil coolant sending unit is of the same part #. The Dodge schematics did not show two locations but did list each separately. I'll crawl around this weekend and see if I can determine if and the location of the oil temp sender.
 
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