motor oil

Houstonsrt10

Houstonsrt10

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I'm goin to change my motor oil what oil do u guys reccomend sticking with 0 40 or going a different route and what brand or weight especially for this houston weather another I have a stock motor.
 
Stick with 0/40.......but you are going to get a 100 different opinions.:p ..I use 15/50 but I am heavily modded with FI....if I was stock or had just bolt ons I would stick with 0/40...
 
TNVIPER said:
Stick with 0/40.......but you are going to get a 100 different opinions.:p ..I use 15/50 but I am heavily modded with FI....if I was stock or had just bolt ons I would stick with 0/40...
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I ran 15-50 in the red truck when it was stock.
This is in a warm climate of SoCal....

If I were in a climate that got cold I would probably run 10w40 in the winter and 15-50 in the summer. The valve train is so much quieter and the oil pressure is much more stable....

I don't feel the light weight oil have the film strength to protect the motor in a hot rod and a 500hp truck is a hot rod....:burnout::burnout::burnout:
 
I have changed my oil ones on the CE. I want with the 0w40. My son's 04 i use 10w30, but that's just me.
 
FSTJACK said:
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I ran 15-50 in the red truck when it was stock.
This is in a warm climate of SoCal....

If I were in a climate that got cold I would probably run 10w40 in the winter and 15-50 in the summer. The valve train is so much quieter and the oil pressure is much more stable....

I don't feel the light weight oil have the film strength to protect the motor in a hot rod and a 500hp truck is a hot rod....:burnout::burnout::burnout:
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I was thinking of you Jack when I posted..;) ....I dont disagree with you but I had no valve train noise back when I was stock and ran 0/40......in fact I ran 0/40 with the FI but found it would use oil...went to 15/50 and oil consumption went to zero....but I would think using 10/40 or 15/50 in a stock engine will not hurt anything...
 
TNVIPER said:
I was thinking of you Jack when I posted..;) ....I dont disagree with you but I had no valve train noise back when I was stock and ran 0/40......in fact I ran 0/40 with the FI but found it would use oil...went to 15/50 and oil consumption went to zero....but I would think using 10/40 or 15/50 in a stock engine will not hurt anything...
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ya but in the hills of tn it does not get hot year round like in houston ,,,15-50 is only way to fly in houston heat and traffic;)
 
TNVIPER said:
You ought to move out of that hell hole...:D
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got a spare room for me ,wife and a fat ass beagle hound that snores more than i do :D
 
TNVIPER said:
Can you mow and the wife cook & clean?....:p ..........quit hoeing this thread..LOL...
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yup but that hound will trash your house ,and yard ,, and he eats everything in sight,,and some he cant even see ,he even ate my TV remote ,o ya the 12 pound hairball cat too that hates me ;) :aetsch: ok i got to go to bed got to be at work at 5 am till 7pm on sunday ,,,god i need a new job ,,,mowing your yard and watching cable all day ;) BURP:aetsch:
 
Houstonsrt10 said:
What u guys think about royal purple
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I have used it for over a year...no problems but I have read some negative things that made me change back to Mobile 1 last oil change.....in fact, just did last Friday...
 
I was just talking to the service manager/viper tech at the delaership about this, and according to their computer, I am now supposed to use 5w-40.
He said it supersedes the 0W-40?

I dont know if mopar recommends different weights depending on geographic location or what the deal may be. :dontknow:

I dont want to jack this thread, but will the 5w-40 be ok in my truck since I will be putting a paxton on soon, or should I switch to something else?
 
With a blower I would run a minimum of 15w40, I used 15w50 when the motors were stock in my trucks and when we went into them to build they were perfect no wear anywhere.

The heavier oil gives you more bearing cushion and shear strength.

I just don't like the thinner oils on any hotrod, and these are hotrod motors.

On my 04 6cyl ranger I run 10w30 as it is stock and a lopo motor.

The Zinc has all been removed from all passenger car oils. If you have an older motor with a flat tappet hydraulic or solid camshaft you need to run racing oil or us an addative such as comp cams zinc and phosporous.

The racing oils with zinc cut down on the scuffing of the lifter bases.
The reason for the zinc removal is it supposedly shortens the life of the cats. (cough cough)
 
I run Joe Gibbs racing oil,just thr break in oil now.
Hey Jack,how long should a guy us the break in oil for? till it gets dynoed?
 
Yellow venom said:
I run Joe Gibbs racing oil,just thr break in oil now.
Hey Jack,how long should a guy us the break in oil for? till it gets dynoed?
Click to expand...

I would change it after the first couple of hours to get the build debris out and let the rings get seated.

I would run a heavier racing oil with zinc for the dyno pulls.
 
FSTJACK said:
I would change it after the first couple of hours to get the build debris out and let the rings get seated.

I would run a heavier racing oil with zinc for the dyno pulls.
Click to expand...

Ok,thanks. The Joe Gibbs racing oils has zinc in it too:rock:
 
One thing about oil in relation to the cost of motors it is very cheap insurance.

I have never seen damage done to a motor by using quality oil or changing it too often....;););)
 
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