DRAG RACE - Need help

I bought some new Drag King cheater slicks and a set of rims to put them on, but the rims never showed up. and now they don't sell em. so i'm completely stuck with a set of wicked tires that need a 17x10.5 or 17x11 or 17x12 and a bolt pattern of 5/5.5. Please help

ummmmmmmmmmmm...

so...you need wheels?

What are they going on?

ok......i'm lost...

are you looking for rims?

I think he is looking for wheels.

I have a pair of M & H drag radials and rims for our trucks. I would let the rims go if you want them. PM me.

viperhauler said:

ummmmmmmmmmmm...

so...you need wheels?

Click to expand...

No dipstick..he said 'rims"...................just get the M&H DRs HV SRT is selling....they work great...:rock:

STFU

What are the stats on the tires? because I have a set of M&H RaceMasters 390/40R17
If you have Rims to match, how much?

As well, I would like to put on electric cutouts. I would love to hear what ya'lls have to say. I'm used to playing with purpose built race cars, so headers and thats it. I don't know the first thing about putting or having someone put cutout/electic cutouts on my truck. I want to stay NA and need power. I was going to get the Cam from Roe Racing, new plug wires, the cutouts, a tune, headers, a lighter flywheel, and a better clutch. anything else you guys can think of?

Don't do the lighter flywheel...if you are going to drive it on the street...you need momentum not high revs to get this truck rolling...most of us have tossed the Fidanza flywheel in the dumpster.

Once you put the slicks on, you are going to dust your spider gears...might want to consider a different rear end or at least cyro spider gears.

Many have clutch problems but some do not. You will probably want to replace the master and slave...the ones that come with the truck are plastic...also change your fluid frequently.

Stupuff said:

As well, I would like to put on electric cutouts. I would love to hear what ya'lls have to say. I'm used to playing with purpose built race cars, so headers and thats it. I don't know the first thing about putting or having someone put cutout/electic cutouts on my truck. I want to stay NA and need power. I was going to get the Cam from Roe Racing, new plug wires, the cutouts, a tune, headers, a lighter flywheel, and a better clutch. anything else you guys can think of?

Click to expand...

If you want to make good power in a n.a. engine, you will need better heads and a better cam to match.

You can go with one of the several cylinder head porters out there and have yours ported, buy some ported heads (exchange), or go with aftermarket heads (Strikers).

There is a Gen IV conversion option coming as well but cost and results aren't quite out yet.

There are also intake manifold mods you can go with that will modify your Gen III manifold and net you 20-30 wheel.

I don't use headers yet (but that's just me)...

PS- You will likely get some additional advice via private messages from "shady individuals"...



Ronnie

if you're going to drag race, fidanza works great & is a non-issue on the street.......

definitely get a set of caltrac's:

Calvert Racing - The Leader in Leaf Spring Innovation :rock:

consider a line lock too:

http://jmbperformance.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=66_113_117&products_id=305

headers & catless mids work well also:

http://jmbperformance.com/store/index.php?cPath=66_113_94

all the above stuff worked well for me:

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/moparracing_2008/pir 9-26-08/?action=view&current=run7.mp4



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Prof said:

Don't do the lighter flywheel...if you are going to drive it on the street...you need momentum not high revs to get this truck rolling...most of us have tossed the Fidanza flywheel in the dumpster.

Once you put the slicks on, you are going to dust your spider gears...might want to consider a different rear end or at least cyro spider gears.

Many have clutch problems but some do not. You will probably want to replace the master and slave...the ones that come with the truck are plastic...also change your fluid frequently.

Click to expand...

I have to disagree with Prof on the lighter flywheel. I have had both steel and aluminum and the truck is far more responsive with the lighter flywheel. I went from aluminum to steel and lost 2 tenths. I now have an aluminum flywheel with the McLeod twin disc and I hold the NA Et and Speed records for the club. I agree with Moparracing.

thanks jerry.

we're not the only one's that love the fidanza (light-weight flywheels).:rock:

From what I learned on here, you don't go full slicks unless you build your rear end. If you have the M&H drag radials you should be ok with the stock rear end as long as you pre load correctly, maybe you guys can chime in a little more on this. The Eagle Alloys 058 series is what you will need for the 390's.

As far as standard bolt-ons; headers, catless mids, exhaust, drop in filter, caltracs, and SCT work great together. Dunno About the RC's, but on the QC's the Belanger headers and catless mids combo leave a small section for you to play with after the mids. You can either fab up a small section to connect to an aftermarket exhaust or re-use a small section of the stock exhaust to connect. This is a perfect spot to put in a set of electronic cutouts. On the qc's the Belenger catless mids come in two sections each, the first section is 3 inch diameter and the second section scales down to 2.5 inches. You will still have plenty velocity coming out even if you put the cutouts after the 2.5 inch section. I've ran my QC with no exhaust on after the headers and catless mids 3inch section and it's almost unbearable loud. Rattles everything in the cab and just cruising you have to talk with a raised voice just to communicate with someone in the passenger seat. I have a video of it like that in my sig.

The sound with the full exhaust on is still loud but totally bearable at all times. I can see a decent power gain from having the cutouts on a QC due to the extra long piping over a RC, but not shure if it would make that much of a defference on the RC.

Trainman said:

I have to disagree with Prof on the lighter flywheel. I have had both steel and aluminum and the truck is far more responsive with the lighter flywheel. I went from aluminum to steel and lost 2 tenths. I now have an aluminum flywheel with the McLeod twin disc and I hold the NA Et and Speed records for the club. I agree with Moparracing.

Click to expand...

moparracing said:

thanks jerry.

we're not the only one's that love the fidanza (light-weight flywheels).:rock:

Click to expand...

Well for you lower hp guys that might be true...and remember Trainman, I said on the street...I doubt that your helium based floater gets much street time...

ran my fidanza on the street just fine there roy.

besides, he said he wanted to drag race his NA truck, not build a higher HP garage queen.


.

Prof said:

Well for you lower hp guys that might be true...and remember Trainman, I said on the street...I doubt that your helium based floater gets much street time...

Click to expand...

Wrong wrong wrong. I drive it everyday on the street, it has almost 60,000 miles. With the heavy flywheel on the street it would slightly bog if I was in 2nd gear and floor it without hitting the clutch.....now with the aluminum flywheel, I hit the gas in 2nd gear and it lights the tires from a 25mph roll...instant acceleration. :rock:

moparracing said:

thanks jerry.

we're not the only one's that love the fidanza (light-weight flywheels).:rock:

Click to expand...

Yup I have that flywheel with the centerforce, and all upgrade.

love that flywheel, cal-tracs helped out very very much, def worth the money.