NOS

my 12.0 run was with a 175 shot and the stage 2 computer from DC. Much tire smoke on the street :-D .
 
Who would have a good nos kit for these trucks I have a all stock truck with 80,000 mils on it I never race it I baby the truck and how much do you think it would cost to put one in
 
Snakes709 said:
yes its called the pillar. I'm not 100% sure on the LM1 data logger. But the setup ill have in a few weeks in my pillar is the stock oil temp, AFR Wideband and a AeroForce Interceptor so i can watch the IAT2, Knock Retard and Bottle Presure.

Speaking of which, does anyone know what the avg IAT temps are on the trucks?
Click to expand...

Oh ok. Whats a IAT2? Knock Retard?
 
05srt10carson said:
Who would have a good nos kit for these trucks I have a all stock truck with 80,000 mils on it I never race it I baby the truck and how much do you think it would cost to put one in
Click to expand...

Not sure if anyone sells a complete kit for our trucks. But I just started out with a universal Zex kit, then added the "racers pack" to it and added a few other parts onto it. All together... $1300 plus another $500 for torrie to tune the truck. Installing it isnt that hard to do. Instructions are pretty straight forward, all you have to do is find everything on the truck that you need to tap into...ie, power sources, throttle body sensor, tech signal wire....all that stuff.



ram_vs_cougar said:
Oh ok. Whats a IAT2? Knock Retard?
Click to expand...

Intake Air Temperatures, its the temperature of the air in your intake manifold that is about to go into your engine. Idealy you want it to be as low as possible, if it gets to high it could cause knock retard. Knock retard is another term for detenation. 2 things could happen when you get this....A. the computer detects knock (detenation) and it will retard (take away) timing from the tune and lower your power.... or B...to put it simple, your
engine blows up..lol.

When i had my supercharged cobalt with meth injection, i was able to increase the timing to 25* and after 3 pulls on the highway (0-120kmh) my IAT2 temps were 149* with 0* knock....which was perfect. But with this truck, its a whole new ball game.
 
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From what i read, i would go with a wet kit (thats what i have), never got a dc tune so iiunno what they are like, but i like the way torrie does work. He made my nitrous tune and soon as i get the truck on the dyno, ill see what its making and do some data logging. Torrie told me to send him the results and he will adjust my tune if need be.
 
Snakes709 said:
Not sure if anyone sells a complete kit for our trucks. But I just started out with a universal Zex kit, then added the "racers pack" to it and added a few other parts onto it. All together... $1300 plus another $500 for torrie to tune the truck. Installing it isnt that hard to do. Instructions are pretty straight forward, all you have to do is find everything on the truck that you need to tap into...ie, power sources, throttle body sensor, tech signal wire....all that stuff.





Intake Air Temperatures, its the temperature of the air in your intake manifold that is about to go into your engine. Idealy you want it to be as low as possible, if it gets to high it could cause knock retard. Knock retard is another term for detenation. 2 things could happen when you get this....A. the computer detects knock (detenation) and it will retard (take away) timing from the tune and lower your power.... or B...to put it simple, your
engine blows up..lol.

When i had my supercharged cobalt with meth injection, i was able to increase the timing to 25* and after 3 pulls on the highway (0-120kmh) my IAT2 temps were 149* with 0* knock....which was perfect. But with this truck, its a whole new ball game.
Click to expand...

Oh ok good info:rock: Oh yeah and yes whole new ball game lol
 
thats the basic kit that you need, i have the same one except its the "black out edition" You can run that perfectly fine but i highly recommend a Traction Control Window Switch, Purge System and a Bottle Heater.

Here are some pictures of my install (bottle is now turned 90* so the valve is facing the front)

IMG_1291.jpg


IMG_1282.jpg


IMG_1289.jpg



Before you email torrie about the tune, talk to the tony from JTSVP...there is a sale going on the SCT Tuners right now.
 
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The LM1 is a hand held device that plugs into a wideband and a cigarette lighter for power and it records your A/F readings.
 
Snakes709 said:
thats the basic kit that you need, i have the same one except its the "black out edition" You can run that perfectly fine but i highly recommend a Traction Control Window Switch, Purge System and a Bottle Heater.

Here are some pictures of my install (bottle is now turned 90* so the valve is facing the front)

IMG_1291.jpg


IMG_1282.jpg


IMG_1289.jpg



Before you email torrie about the tune, talk to the tony from JTSVP...there is a sale going on the SCT Tuners right now.
Click to expand...

Becareful with that nozzle placement! the nitrous will make it to the back cylinders but the fuel might not!!! i have mine set infront of the IAT about 2" back so that it sprays with a straight shot to the back of the manifold. your fuel will wet everything on the way except for the valves. When nitrous is heated past 565*F the oxygen separates and will burn anything that is available! if there is no fuel it will burn pistons or valves or both. I f you check JMB's setup , he has 2 nozzles behind the throttle body which gets the fog as close to the valves as he can and he has a small dry shot of nitrous into the air intake tube to fool the AIT into thinking the air intake is cold like winter . No timing pull and richer mixture. sorry for the long post!!! Please rethink nozzle placement!!!
 
Couple people suggested a different spot, just curious how will the fuel not make it to the back cylinders but the nitrous can? I do have another fogger and a set of lines but i really dont want to put 2 holes in my IM
 
here are some pics of my setup
 

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But how is that any difference then how i have it? Its still going to be sprayed/sucked into all the cylinders.
 
Should be as close to the throttle body as possible. Sounds like you have it figured out, put it wherever you want.
 
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