PAXTON BOV

Hey Guys

I completely forgot about this issue I was having after the new build etc.,
because I havn't drove it for 9 months. After the installation of the triple
walbro fuel pump, fuel rails and regulator, I removed the Paxton ECU.

Here is the problem that has occured.

When I connect a vaccum hose to the Vaccum nipple on the BOV the engine
idles badly and even cuts out. It is fine if it is taken off, but obviously it just
blows constantly while in vaccum, and it sounds terrible.

I'm not sure of the exact reason, but I think it is something to do with the
Paxton ECU (split second box) delete.

How can I fix this issue?

Also I was thinking of changing the Paxton BOV to a Greddy RZ, would this
be better than the Paxton, or atleast as good as.

Thanks for any help

Mark.

Anyone!

is the diaphram blown out it in BOV????

does it run the same if you are just holdin the open hose???

The BOV is completely fine, as I said, it was like this last year
when I was driving it, i just forgot about it. It works fine and
gains boost real low down with the new setup.

But this is with the vaccum not conected to the BOV. If there
was any problems with the BOV I dont think I would be building
boost the way it does, as it closes fine when in boost.

I really think it has something to do with the Split Timing Box
being removed.

Though I am no expert at all.

Any Paxton owners out there who have got rid of the Paxton ECU?

TMCNORWAY said:

Any Paxton owners out there who have got rid of the Paxton ECU?

Click to expand...

Yup. Never even installed the split second piece of shit. I'm running 65lb injectors, twin walbro fuel pumps and tuned by Torrie at Unleashed Tuning with an SCT. You have something else going on. It's not the deletion of the Split Second. The split second is just a piggy back type system, that reads boost and turns on the extra fuel pumps and adjust timing as it reads boost. As mentioned above, double check your BOV. You say it's fine. How do u know. And, with the split second removed, how is it being tuned. Are u running a different map sensor?

I have received 6 different tunes from DC performance for my SCT, i'm also running
65lb injectors, tripple walbro fuel pumps, and a new map sensor.

It runs absolutely perfect, the A/F is 11.1 - 11.3 under full boost

Apart from the fact that I have the vaccum off the BOV.

TMCNORWAY said:

I have received 6 different tunes from DC performance for my SCT, i'm also running
65lb injectors, tripple walbro fuel pumps, and a new map sensor.

It runs absolutely perfect, the A/F is 11.1 - 11.3 under full boost

Apart from the fact that I have the vaccum off the BOV.

Click to expand...

Maybe try getting with Torrie @ unleashed tuning and see if he can get you one of his base tunes for the Paxton. He sent me a base tune for my Paxton, before I had him dyno tune my truck. It ran perfect with his base tune. Joe (jfireboy1), just removed his split second system form his twin turbo truck and Torrie sent him a base tune, that also runs perfect. He did have a problem with the truck cutting off and throwing a p1389 code. It turned out to be a faulty map sensor. Check your output voltage at the map sensor. The believe the output voltage on a three bar, should be 1.74 volts.

This may be a stupid question but did you plug any vacuum lines not being used after removing the paxton stuff? You have the 1 that went to the split second box that needs to be plugged and the 1 that went under the truck to the FMU.

I have a AEM stand alone and a tiel blow off valve. I think the paxton blow off valve is around here somewhere if you want to try it.

Its fixed..
Swapped the paxton BOV for the Greddy and all is fine,

I apploogise, but i was wrong obviously the BOV was damaged.

Thanks guys.