A/C Issues?

E

eldermc42

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Hopefully this will be a simple problem, with a simple fix, or just someone saying that's the way it is...

A/C pressures are good on both ends.
Blows cold air when driving down the road.
Blows hot air when stopped. Makes me think fan isn't working/working that well as no air over the condenser might cause this....

1... Are the A/C systems in the SRT's the same as in the 1500's? I don't remember my other two 1500's ever having this problem.

2... Is there a known issue about a temp sensor, fan solenoid, etc...? I'm assuming since the PS lines run into the fan motor that it's hydraulic... Do people replace this with electric?

Gimme some stuff to check!

'04 RC SRT.

Thanks in advance.
Matt
 
I'd be for going into your dealership and having them do an EVAC system door calibration check. (VENT operation doors inside EVAC unit) These trucks (Dodge Rams of all models) have been known to have weak door pivot arms inside that have been known to break. (Mode door, and Recirc door.) I know this from being a dodge tech a few years ago, pulled the dash on a number of these trucks to do door replacement....

Just an idea from what you described going on...
 
Thought I would post what I found as a fix... I checked and replaced the vacuum check valve (located right near the brake booster) and that solved the problem... I guess it wasn't closing all the way.
 
Several of us had similar issues right off the showroom floor. Drivers side was nice and cold however passenger side would go warm/hot. Particularly under full throttle i.e. low vacuum situations. While the freon level showed fine the fix was to add just a bit more and now both sides blow approx the same temp.
 
eldermc42 said:
Hopefully this will be a simple problem, with a simple fix, or just someone saying that's the way it is...

A/C pressures are good on both ends.
Blows cold air when driving down the road.
Blows hot air when stopped. Makes me think fan isn't working/working that well as no air over the condenser might cause this....

1... Are the A/C systems in the SRT's the same as in the 1500's? I don't remember my other two 1500's ever having this problem.

2... Is there a known issue about a temp sensor, fan solenoid, etc...? I'm assuming since the PS lines run into the fan motor that it's hydraulic... Do people replace this with electric?

Gimme some stuff to check!

'04 RC SRT.

Thanks in advance.
Matt
Click to expand...

sorry for digging up this one but i have a similar case but what i did was i just replaced the condenser and a/c condenser fan then it went okay. Sound weird huh? no electric stuffs replaced but that is on my case. i am still puzzled how come it was the vacuum check valve. :confused:
 
Need an AC condenser and/or the brackets

i have an 04 SRT-10 and I need the condenser brackets Dodge says they are part of the condenser It has been on backorder for 4 months. Id take the whole condenser if I had too but I just need the brackets.
 
Oncebit has it nailed...50% of the time it is the door that is the problem.

Check that first.
 
Prof said:
Oncebit has it nailed...50% of the time it is the door that is the problem.

Check that first.
Click to expand...

The short term fix with the door issue, is back out the three torque bolts out of the fan motor on the passenger side. Place the fan to one side reach up in there grab the door and snatch quickly door folds in half, out it comes reinstall fan good to go in 5 mins. ( but you do loose the recirc facility and in hot weather the AC looses its edge. But till you get it to the dealer its a great short term fix.:D

thewelshm
 
I too am having A/C issues. The first time the air stopped blowing cold the problem was with one of the trap doors behind the dash. Dodge dealership replaced and air worked fine. Approx 3 weeks later and began having the one side blowing cold/other blowing hot problem. Now I'm not really getting cold air at all on either side. Is the problem most likely the EVAC door like Oncebit described or could it just be that it needs a little freon?
 
Freon level is easy to check. I would bet it is the door issue.
 
Sounds like low freon level. When it starts to get low ,one side will be colder than the other. Then the pressure gets too low and the low pressure switch shuts compressor off. I can't remember (old age) but I think you can replace the recirc door without pulling dash. I think there is a guy (heatertreater.net) that makes all metal replacement doors for many applications. He also shows how to replace some doors without pulling heater box. I wouldn't chop up my heater box but if you had an old POS it saves time.
 
Last edited:
Prof said:
Oncebit has it nailed...50% of the time it is the door that is the problem.

Check that first.
Click to expand...

:dito: There are several factory TSB,s. We always find a knowledgable parts guy and give the VIN # to see how many parts need updated while heater box is out. Might as well fix it all while the box is out.
 
spydertt said:
Sounds like low freon level. When it starts to get low ,one side will be colder than the other. Then the pressure gets too low and the low pressure switch shuts compressor off. I can't remember (old age) but I think you can replace the recirc door without pulling dash. I think there is a guy (heatertreater.net) that makes all metal replacement doors for many applications. He also shows how to replace some doors without pulling heater box. I wouldn't chop up my heater box but if you had an old POS it saves time.
Click to expand...

Freon level appeared to be the culprit in my case. Also discovered the cap to the northside port was missing, so a slow leak probably drained my system of freon, resulting in the issues I was having. Got one of those little freon bottle kits at Advanced and that did the trick. Also picked up a set of caps and capped off the port, so hopefully that is the overall solution and not just a bandaid.

-Jason
 
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