WHY WHY WHY?

Why can't my truck ever go into the shop and be repaired in a timely manner? I've had it in and out of the trans shop for the past 2 weeks. Same thing happened last time I had it rebuilt. Why doesn't anyone know how to rebuild these transmissions properly? Is there a secret way to do it that only an elite few know? First it was just a rebuild with $100 deductible, I left the shop noticed the truck was sluggish and my center support bearing blew out and caused all kinds of rattling and another $100 deduc bc idiots didn't look at that. Got it back and was still sluggish as all hell, they were sent a TC with wrong stall.
I'm sick of it and I'm tired of the waits I have to go through with no truck. It will be getting repaired agian by a master builder at the trans shop tomorrow...We'll see!

With that said I will enjoy the truck for a few more months until my credit is rebuilt and back to a diesel I go. Diesel was by far the best truck I owned and such a power house for so little money. I'll be doing 11's in a diesel way before and for far less $$ then I ever will be in this truck!
Sorry but had to rant it out....

The 48RE is an old Mopar 727 with an overdrive stuck on the end; that's all it is. Nothing mysterious at all.
There are WAY more sophisticated autos on the market.

These are NOT the exact same transmission used in the diesels. There are calibration differences and differences in the hard-parts, that are used internally.

For an average performance build for an SRT-10 QC you will need the following:

A billet Input Shaft (if using slicks or drag radials), a good shift kit, preferably a Rigid Low/Reverse band and performance clutch packs. That should be ALL that is needed over and above a standard shop-manual rebuild to last for THOUSANDS of miles.

If you are using the truck with drag radials or slicks down the 1/4 mile, adjust the bands OFTEN. I adjust the bands after a lengthy day at the track (sometimes after ONE Day). That may sound like overkill but you'd be amazed how much slack there is inside after some "abuse" at a well-prepped track using DRs.

The vast majority of the clamping force of the band occurs in the initial movement of the lever that actuates it. If you leave the band adjustment too long, it moves too far away and the band can no longer grab the drum to stop it from spinning and accomplish a solid 1-2 shift. A bit of slip and the band material scrubs off and creates problems in the valve body and the tranny (drum, etc.) will fail in a VERY short time after this point.
There is very little friction material on these bands to start with. The GM Solenoids are more tolerant to debris than the o.e.m. units. I haven't, but some guys have the solenoids changed to the GM units while they are apart.

Keep the bands adjusted and the fluid clean.
A good convertor is optional and makes a nice difference in around town response.

If you are using an unusually large hit of nitrous or something different than the available street-style superchargers or Head/Cam packages, look at a more serious build or drop this transmission completely.

My 10 second QC diesel buddy is on his SEVENTEENTH 48RE (Die-Hard Dodge guy), but he also makes 2000+ lbs. feet of TQ. with 155 pounds of boost..

Ronnie

:withstupid: And yes i only know a few guys that know the tricks for the mopar tranny.
When you go to the shop make sure that what you want is written down so if they couldnt get to it they can keep the RO open so you only have to pay one deduct>

Thanks for all the info. I just dropped it off and they are going to drop the pan and inspect for anything that may look out of the ordinary. I don't know why they built a trans that can't hold up to all the Tq.
10 Sec. diesel has got to be one sweet ride!

Somebody should be able to build a 48RE for you that will work properly and last. It's a pisser when you have troubles like this. Locally, I found a guy for my own transmission that wasn't very familiar with Dodge transmissions but he was able to figure it out with a shop manual.

A 10 second diesel. Yes, it's amazing what $100,000+ dollars under a silver hood can do..

what transmission would you suggest switching to instead of the 48re? Is it alot more expensive to do this than a rebuild?

It was rebuilt form a shop manual. It just has a 1-2 gear hunt periodically and from 60 if you mash the gas it just skips over the gear and redlines...

The good thing is this shop has been around a long time and they are going to look at everything and get it right for me. He said it could be left over clutch material that was in the trans cooler from the previous transmission. He said it was flushed but even that doesn't always guarantee it's 100% cleaned out. They said it could be anything even the smallest little thing, so they are going to inspect for me...

There is a check-ball inside the cooler that prevents drainback when the truck has sat for a while. That checkball needs to be working or the tranny will starve for fluid. Blowing it out or replacing the cooler are the only options available.
Part-throttle transmission confusion typically occurs when either the valve body solenoids have debris in them and/or the cabling (up top on your Intake Manifold Bracket) isn't adjusted properly.
Make sure the band adjustments are correct as well. There is a slightly different adjustment in the manual for the gas-engine application.

It isn't always easy to "diagnose" over the internet, but bouncing off of the rev limiter is common on a w.o.t. 1-2 shift. (And it sounds cool)

atenza_freak said:

what transmission would you suggest switching to instead of the 48re? Is it alot more expensive to do this than a rebuild?

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Several have switched a 48RE to the T-56 6 speed. Cost wise for this, I'm not sure. Also, I know several folks have swapped out a manual (RC) for an auto -- there's another recent thread on this subject. Can those transmissions (GM 4L80E, Turbo 400) be swapped for a 48RE in a Quad? :dontknow:

Well they are a stand up shop I can tell you that much. They took apart the pan today and found left over particles suspected from previous trans. Said all the bands and what they can see look fine still. They checked and readjusted bands again and instead of cleaning the valve body they replaced the whole thing. It's ready to go..I will be picking up in the morning. I will drive around for a while and see how it adjusts to my driving conditions.

You should mention to them the check valvr that Ronnie is talking about....if they flushed it and there was just debri in there....odds are theres still some left

Troy's QC SRT said:

You should mention to them the check valvr that Ronnie is talking about....if they flushed it and there was just debri in there....odds are theres still some left

Click to expand...

They did inspect everything again. They repalced the valve body completely because of some left over debris in the cooler. They also modified the valve body, adjusted bands again and this is like a new truck. Shifts are effortless and smooth.:rock:

Had mine rebuilt before I traded it in only to turn around and have to go back in again because the OD unit blew !!Then they had to do everything all over again because there was no guarantee that there wasn't metal shavings everywhere else !! Then I dealt with an electrical bug with the starter,4 times in to be repaired,4 "different" remedies !!After happening a 5th and 6th time it was no when to say when !!