Need new clutch..recommendations

trussman said:

Glad this thread is up. Want to bleed my clutch as well. She gets soft at higher rpms. Makes me have to stay out of it longer than I would like to shift or it just won't shift.

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i have the same exact problem... everytime i gun it it happens ..hurts me inside a little everytime :/

ARRESTmeRed04 said:

Same here

X400

Only 1 srt10 failure? What's the back story on the truck,engine mods and what not. Mine has a ton of 5k clutch dumps on it with no problems so far

Ever bleed brakes before?

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yes i have.... i just dont know hot to do the clutch... can you help me ? i hate driving her like this

RamsonA said:

yes i have.... i just dont know hot to do the clutch... can you help me ? i hate driving her like this

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Bleeding the clutch is just like bleeding your brakes, the bleeder screw is sticking out of the drivers side of the bell housing. Just have someone pump it up and then hold it down, crack open the bleeder then close it off and pump it up again. Repeat until all the air is out, just make sure not to let the resivior run out

RamsonA said:

yes i have.... i just dont know hot to do the clutch... can you help me ? i hate driving her like this

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Exactly what Arrestmered04 said. Based on the way I've seen you drive your fluid is going to come out black, when it looks like the fluid you're pouring in you are done. Believe me it will feel like a different truck when you're done.

I've been running my spec stage 2+ for over 4 years and have had zero issues. IMO and from seeing friends/coworkers issues, i believe clutch failures are from improper break-in and improper use.

Clutch Bleeding

RamsonA

The advise to bleed the clutch is a basic and great start to address your issue(s). I would also ask if you have changed out the transmission fluid from the OEM goo to Redline D4?!? [ame=http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_10?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=redline+d4+atf&sprefix=Redline+D4%2Cautomotive%2C319]Amazon.com: redline d4 atf: Automotive[/ame]
If not, I would also recommend doing so. The transmission WILL shift smoother and have great protection to boot!

Here is some info I have copied from other threads re; clutch bleeding. Pick the one that works best for you. You may also want to take the oppourtunity to change the fluid to a hi temp / synthetic type like

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Motul-RBF600-Racing-Brake-8069HC/dp/B000AURZ08]Motul RBF600 Racing Brake Fluid 1/2 Liter 8069HC : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]


JSTVP Clutch Bleed:

1. fill the resevior up on top.

2. remove the cap.

3. loosen the fitting at the tranny, put a pan below it and let it drip and run for a good 3-40 min, checking and keeping it full.

4. tighten the bleeder , have someone inside depress the pedle "slowyly" and i mean slowly, the fluid will cavitate if its done too quickly.

5. now when the pedal is on the floor, open the bleeder, and before the fluid finishes comming out, close the bleeder, then slowly release the pedal,
and then depress the pedal about 3 times slowly, and hold, open bleeder, close. After about 5-6 times like this you should start to feel a pedal.

!!!!! 6. BE SURE TO CHECK RESI AFTER TWO BLEED CYCLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Second Opinion from VTCOA:

1. Fill it with fluid.

2. Then Real slowly pump the clutch to the floor and hold it there. Then on cue have a 2nd person open the bleeder screw for a second or two and then shut.

3. Repeat this like 10 times. Remember to push the clutch slowly. Then you will feel like your building up a pedal, then you press the pedal slowly again
right when it feels like its start to build some tension have 2nd person open the bleeder screw, as soon as you open the screw the pedal will drop fast,
tell him to close the screw before the clutch pedal goes to the bottom. repeat like 7-10 times and you should be good.





Tony from JSTVP:

This is the way you can do it backyard style and very affective

first locat your bleeder screw on the tranny

second get you a clear piece of vaccum line or hose that will connect to the bleeder and a pan or something to catch the fluid.

this will also take two people

While one person is in the truck, the other under, have the person in the truck SLOWLY( i cant stress that enough!) depress the clutch peddle, hold it , open the bleeder, and before it completly empties, close it.

do this a couple times , until there is room in the resevior under the hood, fill the resevior to the top, and then proceed in bleeding the same way.

be sure not to pump the clutch peddle! slowly depress it once, hold , bleed, close,

but if the peddle is depressed too quick or numerous times, it will cause the fluid to cavitate, and have air bubbles.

keep bleeding until the fluid is very very clear, and you have basically flushed the fluid with new, keeping an eye on the resevior every four or five bleeds.

after you get good clean fluid, do it a few more times, and check to see if operation is normal.

I put 95k miles on the oem clutch... Hundreds of track passes and street races and pulling a trailer regularly...

It's doubtful you need a clutch... Don't just bleed it, replace all the fluid with new... No reason to mix it... Your clutch fluid has most likely broken down as well...

Clutch Replacement

I would not look into clutch replacement untill you have performed the above procedures and still have poor clutch operation.:rock:

I like the stock clutch/ zero problems.

also do not pump the clutch pedal when bleeding it.

you may also have a slave cylinder going out on you

I like this thread but now i have a general question, how often should you bleed the clutch?

DOWURKSON said:

I like this thread but now i have a general question, how often should you bleed the clutch?

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I bleed mine after every hard track session, like a test and tune where I run 10 - 15 times in one day. Under normal use it won't be quite as often. How do you plan to use your truck will ultimately determine the frequency of performing this.

VPRPWRD said:

I bleed mine after every hard track session, like a test and tune where I run 10 - 15 times in one day. Under normal use it won't be quite as often. How do you plan to use your truck will ultimately determine the frequency of performing this.

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So if some1 doesnt race or just as a weekend driver or something every couple months good?

jman08 said:

So if some1 doesnt race or just as a weekend driver or something every couple months good?

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I would say you could go longer than that. Maybe once every couple years if it's just a toy that doesn't see the track or hard driving.

its my daily driver. I do intend on hitting the track every few weekends coming up. I havent abused it to bad yet 1st 2nd 3rd are pretty fun:burnout:, but usually baby it, for some reason im terrified im going to brake this damn thing.

Psycho1122 said:

RamsonA

The advise to bleed the clutch is a basic and great start to address your issue(s). I would also ask if you have changed out the transmission fluid from the OEM goo to Redline D4?!? Amazon.com: redline d4 atf: Automotive
If not, I would also recommend doing so. The transmission WILL shift smoother and have great protection to boot!

Here is some info I have copied from other threads re; clutch bleeding. Pick the one that works best for you. You may also want to take the oppourtunity to change the fluid to a hi temp / synthetic type like

Motul RBF600 Racing Brake Fluid 1/2 Liter 8069HC : Amazon.com : Automotive


JSTVP Clutch Bleed:

1. fill the resevior up on top.

2. remove the cap.

3. loosen the fitting at the tranny, put a pan below it and let it drip and run for a good 3-40 min, checking and keeping it full.

4. tighten the bleeder , have someone inside depress the pedle "slowyly" and i mean slowly, the fluid will cavitate if its done too quickly.

5. now when the pedal is on the floor, open the bleeder, and before the fluid finishes comming out, close the bleeder, then slowly release the pedal,
and then depress the pedal about 3 times slowly, and hold, open bleeder, close. After about 5-6 times like this you should start to feel a pedal.

!!!!! 6. BE SURE TO CHECK RESI AFTER TWO BLEED CYCLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Second Opinion from VTCOA:

1. Fill it with fluid.

2. Then Real slowly pump the clutch to the floor and hold it there. Then on cue have a 2nd person open the bleeder screw for a second or two and then shut.

3. Repeat this like 10 times. Remember to push the clutch slowly. Then you will feel like your building up a pedal, then you press the pedal slowly again
right when it feels like its start to build some tension have 2nd person open the bleeder screw, as soon as you open the screw the pedal will drop fast,
tell him to close the screw before the clutch pedal goes to the bottom. repeat like 7-10 times and you should be good.





Tony from JSTVP:

This is the way you can do it backyard style and very affective

first locat your bleeder screw on the tranny

second get you a clear piece of vaccum line or hose that will connect to the bleeder and a pan or something to catch the fluid.

this will also take two people

While one person is in the truck, the other under, have the person in the truck SLOWLY( i cant stress that enough!) depress the clutch peddle, hold it , open the bleeder, and before it completly empties, close it.

do this a couple times , until there is room in the resevior under the hood, fill the resevior to the top, and then proceed in bleeding the same way.

be sure not to pump the clutch peddle! slowly depress it once, hold , bleed, close,

but if the peddle is depressed too quick or numerous times, it will cause the fluid to cavitate, and have air bubbles.

keep bleeding until the fluid is very very clear, and you have basically flushed the fluid with new, keeping an eye on the resevior every four or five bleeds.

after you get good clean fluid, do it a few more times, and check to see if operation is normal.

Click to expand...

How much of this Motul fluid is needed to replace and bleed entire clutch system???:dontknow:

I need help ....i started bleeding the clutch and now i cant get it to work...its not throwing liquid or air threw the bleed screw.....can anyone help me out??

I think its clogged up or something..when i berly loosen the bleed screw some with greasy white residue came out

the stock hydraulics for the clutch on these trucks are crap..... you need to upgrade & since you'll be in there, you might as well do the clutch itself. If you're a drag racer, fidanza flywheel too:

SRT-10 6-Speed Clutch and Hydraulics Upgrade, JMB Performance

My clutch related issues didn't go away until i did the whole thang..... I loved my centerforce clutch! :rock:

Like others have said you need to replace fluid every couple months and moreso with racing conditions. Brake Fluid is Hydroscipic, meaning it attracts moisture. Heat inside bell housing and clutch dust also contribute to fluid failure.
Usually a fresh pint can't get it flushed and bled as well as fill reservoir.

Ramson, are you making sure clutch reservoir stays full? If not you'll draw air into the system again. Keep reservoir full at all times.
This should be the first step when encountering any kind of clutch issue other than slipping. That's when your clutch disc just has no more material left to grip.
Good luck bro:burnout:

done. she feels way better ...i dont even need a new clutch:rock: