HID's driving me up the wall....

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ViperCLKGTR

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Installed a set of killer HIDExtra BiXenon 55w bulbs, THEY ARE AWESOME....

First put them on they looked great when in ACC but as soon as I turned the truck on they would blink then go out. Fogs still worked Hi's worked just not Lo's, did some searching hey I need 4 resistors, ordered them.

Well wired the resistors into a set of plug extenders(So I didn't mess with the stock wiring), ACC they work, truck on they work sat and watched for 15 minutes, boom they still work turn the truck off with a smile go grab some grub. Coming home from the parents house truck on still working, throw her in drive to leave, pull off, few seconds later they blink and GO OFF!!!!! WHAT!?!?! I see guys with HID's on '06s what am I missing!?!

I have HIDExtra 55w BiXenon paired with relay harness and capacitors added the plug extenders and resistors? What's wrong!
 
to me it still seems like your somehow not drawing enough power and the computer is shutting them down. I have HID's on my 06 and they work fine......might be a bad resistor possibly, i'm lost and intrigued to see what you find.
 
I don't know? I just can't understand why having it in D would shut it off?

Here's how my wire's are run


I've been referred to as the MS Paint Picasso of our time by those who have seen my work haha
 
There are known issues with the 2004-2005 Dodge Ram 1500 series trucks and HID lamps. Some have this problem, so do not with more people having problems than not. Your wiring diagram is correct but seems like your plagued with same problems I had with mine.

I used the wiring harness (relay) and resistors and mine would just blink when I turned them on, fogs would work perfect tho. From what I've read the headlamps are on a different circuit than the fog lamps and the headlamp circuit is digital? No matter what I tried I couldn't get them to work on the headlamp circuit. Just to make them work, I wired the relay to turn on when I pulled the switch for the fogs but I didn't like the setup so I went back to stock.
 
tdamon30 said:
Just to make them work, I wired the relay to turn on when I pulled the switch for the fogs but I didn't like the setup so I went back to stock.
Click to expand...

How'd you do that?

I don't want to take them off they look amazing but I have to have h/l's
 
The resistors have to be grounded. I dont know if you have them that way but they need to be mounted straight to the frame for a ground or they will not work properly.
 
Viper83101 said:
The resistors have to be grounded. I dont know if you have them that way but they need to be mounted straight to the frame for a ground or they will not work properly.
Click to expand...

Wait what? Really? I never read that anywhere?
 
ViperCLKGTR said:
Wait what? Really? I never read that anywhere?
Click to expand...
Well depending on where you got the kit they may had left that vital info out. I done electrical work for 10 years so I def know the resistors have to be grounded for them to properly work. There should be mounting holes on the resistor where you can screw them straight to the frame. im not saying this is gonna for sure fix your issue but it def sounds to me that it would
 
That's interesting. I've had 8500 HIDs installed in my '04 back in 2006, fogs too. From then going forward I hated the headlights because for SOME reason mine could not be wired the conventional way. The fogs work well to this very day with no problems. A former owner had his '05 QC done at the same time as mine and his came out fine. Mine had to be wired into the park lights for them to work. Relays didn't do the trick. So as soon as the park lights came on, the headlights came on with them. That went on for like 4 years and before any mention of the resistor thing.

I finally picked up a new digital set with high beams from a vendor here that I won't mention and had them installed. The installer (a different one) had a hard time dealing with wiring the kit. I apparently have to have the lights on before starting her up because one or both may/will flicker and no guarantee both will remain on. The high beam part never worked. I'm fed up and will likely go back to regular OEM with Silver Star bulbs. I really liked the Silver Stars for their no nonsense brightness. But NOOOOO, I had to try and be hip with HIDs. These days I hardly drive her since I work outside the USA every other month for a month or more. But to this day I dread dusk when I am driving her around for therapeutic reasons. Funny though, when I drove her last the lights worked fine.

Learning that the resistors must be grounded.. That's new and very interesting. Too afraid for another go at changing kits as it may cause more issues or uncover some. Who knows? My headlight wiring is probably so hacked up :dontknow:I couldn't go back to stock anyway.
 
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Viper83101 said:
Well depending on where you got the kit they may had left that vital info out. I done electrical work for 10 years so I def know the resistors have to be grounded for them to properly work. There should be mounting holes on the resistor where you can screw them straight to the frame. im not saying this is gonna for sure fix your issue but it def sounds to me that it would
Click to expand...

These are the resistors I am running(http://www.ledssuperbright.com/bmz_cache/e/eb6c93d1c5cee505b4045a37a953f303.image.300x198.jpg) on my plug extenders I have them running from Hi to Black and Lo to Black and it didn't work so then I splced them into the relay harness ground wire that's on the frame and it still didn't work. Should I still try screwing them in? My fear is that if it doesn't work I'll have screw holes that I don't want there.

Viper83101 said:
Also you might need HID cancellers since our trucks computer automatically looks for all the lights to be in working order. With an HID kit, its automatically gonna make the computer think that the headlights are out. Here is the link. Warning Canceller + Anti-Flicker Capacitor: HID Headlights Kits - Xenon HID Conversion Kits - FREE Shipping & Lifetime Warranty | XenonPro.com
I would think with this canceller kit and grounding your resistors then you will be good to go.
Click to expand...

I have the capacitors already

When I ordered the HIDs I ordered a spare harness well when the box got to me I thought I had a extra one because there were two harnesses there. I chalked it up as a shipping error. Last night I pulled it out of the box again and noticed it is in fact differrent. It has a wire to run to the negative terminal but no grounds at the bulb like my other does. Here's a picture

http://flashtechusa.com/image/cache/data/hid/hidwiringharness-600x600.jpg
 
I tried every HID trick to get mine to work, resistors (wired correctly) cancelers and wiring harness (relay) mine never worked like they were supposed to. I eventually wired the relay to trigger the HID's off the fog light switch and they would work. Sometimes I like to run parking lights and fog lights only and that setup made it impossible so I went with the Silver Stars as well.
 
ViperCLKGTR said:
These are the resistors I am running(http://www.ledssuperbright.com/bmz_cache/e/eb6c93d1c5cee505b4045a37a953f303.image.300x198.jpg) on my plug extenders I have them running from Hi to Black and Lo to Black and it didn't work so then I splced them into the relay harness ground wire that's on the frame and it still didn't work. Should I still try screwing them in? My fear is that if it doesn't work I'll have screw holes that I don't want there.



I have the capacitors already

When I ordered the HIDs I ordered a spare harness well when the box got to me I thought I had a extra one because there were two harnesses there. I chalked it up as a shipping error. Last night I pulled it out of the box again and noticed it is in fact differrent. It has a wire to run to the negative terminal but no grounds at the bulb like my other does. Here's a picture

http://flashtechusa.com/image/cache/data/hid/hidwiringharness-600x600.jpg
Click to expand...
Well you can always try using zip ties and zip tie the resistors to the frame as tight as possible and then give it a test run. If it works then screw them in for a permanent fit and if not then no harm no foul. I know you said you have the capacitor there but that canceller kit is different as in it tricks your computer into thinking you have factory bulbs in place cause it could very well be what is holding you back. I mean there has to be a way to get everything to work right cause when I first got my truck it had HID that were working except for one burnt out bulb so I just snatched out the whole kit (for various reasons that I wont get into right now). For 30 dollars, I would get the canceller kit and temporarily ground the resistors to the frame and see if it gets you where you need to be.
 
You might want to also take the time to check the ohms through the resistor and make sure they are good. Also take a meter and check your ballast and verify that they are putting out the correct power. I know its a new kit but dont think for a second that just because its new that everything is always gonna be in working order like its supposed to be. My buddy ordered an HID kit a few weeks ago and his ballast was bad right out of the box. Im just saying, check everything out cause this isnt rocket science and shouldn't be this hard to get a kit thats made for the truck to work. I honestly think the cancellers are gonna be your best bet seeing how its all about tricking the PCM.
 
tdamon30 said:
I tried every HID trick to get mine to work, resistors (wired correctly) cancelers and wiring harness (relay) mine never worked like they were supposed to. I eventually wired the relay to trigger the HID's off the fog light switch and they would work. Sometimes I like to run parking lights and fog lights only and that setup made it impossible so I went with the Silver Stars as well.
Click to expand...

Do you have pics of Silver Stars? I know the light output is probably nowhere near the same.

Viper83101 said:
Well you can always try using zip ties and zip tie the resistors to the frame as tight as possible and then give it a test run. If it works then screw them in for a permanent fit and if not then no harm no foul. I know you said you have the capacitor there but that canceller kit is different as in it tricks your computer into thinking you have factory bulbs in place cause it could very well be what is holding you back. I mean there has to be a way to get everything to work right cause when I first got my truck it had HID that were working except for one burnt out bulb so I just snatched out the whole kit (for various reasons that I wont get into right now). For 30 dollars, I would get the canceller kit and temporarily ground the resistors to the frame and see if it gets you where you need to be.
Click to expand...

I tried zip ties yesterday with no new result.... I look at all these MOPAR specific relay harness online and they all for the most part are wired up like mine. except the resistors are on the harness versus mine being on bulb side could that be it?

I'm gonna grab a meter when I have time this weekend and check
 
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