Why 20-50 mobil 1??

572mopar said:
as far as oil filters go a racing Fram HP1 will work, its large and has a high flow rate, i only used the fram cuz it came off my race car early and was still like new, Moroso or a Jomar filter will be my next filter, these v10s are big engines and the little pint size filters dont cut it as far as im concerned, like i said a fram 8a will interchange to a fram hp1 to the ph43 to the ph16which is called out for in the fram catalog for the viper v10
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Many people, including myself, have had filter failures/problems while using filters other than the Mopar white filter.
 
caveman said:
Many people, including myself, have had filter failures/problems while using filters other than the Mopar white filter.
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^^This, when I first bought my truck, I thought KnN would be the way to go, b/c I've used them on my Hemis and they were great. I had 3 straight fail on me.
 
Good to know about the K&N filter. I always use the White Viper oil filer, but the last time I bought oil, 10 qts, they gave me a free K&N Filter for my 10. I guess I can use it as a coffee filter.
 
Psycho1122 said:
0W40 Mobil 1 here...

The reason is that the previous owner did not understand that the 0W allows for quicker flow and better protection at start up. 20W is ridiculously thick for start up conditions. Unless it is a specifically built engine with modified oil galleys, bearing clearances and oil pump to match.

W50 is "thicker" at 100 deg. C. and may keep mechanical components quieter (or a "loose" engine happy). However, increased parasitic loss with less ability to carry heat away from bearings is a result. TOO MUCH psi at high RPM will cause a power drag. I feel even W40 is a touch high. I still maintain my 10 PSI per 1000 RPM on a hard run even in the Arizona heat. I'd bet that the 0W30 would maintain that also. I will be trying that soon.

Cheers!
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Nice to see someone with a clear understanding...
 
caveman said:
Many people, including myself, have had filter failures/problems while using filters other than the Mopar white filter.
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I had 2 failures with Fram and Wicks but zero failures with the black 090 filters from Wal-Mart---55,000 miles and counting. 1/2 the price as the Mopar white Viper filters. The black Mopar in a Mopar box so guess they are probably the same. VENOMOUS1 recommended them to me.
 
shorty said:
I had 2 failures with Fram and Wicks but zero failures with the black 090 filters from Wal-Mart---55,000 miles and counting. 1/2 the price as the Mopar white Viper filters. The black Mopar in a Mopar box so guess they are probably the same. VENOMOUS1 recommended them to me.
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Same here. 75k always used the black mopar one from wally world.
 
Best filter to use comes from the Ford dealership, hate to say it but its the truth. I have always ran a Motorcraft filter on mine since the engine was built.
 
What is going to be interesting is seeing the inside of these engines when they're ready to come apart. Mainly cylinder liner, rings, bearings, cam and lifters to see what different oils, viscosity's, climates, and driving habits affected them in what way :)
Won't be long for most of us ;)
 
VENOMOUS1 RACING said:
What is going to be interesting is seeing the inside of these engines when they're ready to come apart. Mainly cylinder liner, rings, bearings, cam and lifters to see what different oils, viscosity's, climates, and driving habits affected them in what way :)
Won't be long for most of us ;)
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Hmmmm...I'm over 150,000 miles and runs as good as the day I drove it off the lot 10yrs ago. Knock on wood of course lol.
 
Chuck B said:
Hmmmm...I'm over 150,000 miles and runs as good as the day I drove it off the lot 10yrs ago. Knock on wood of course lol.
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I agree and in the same boat, just clicked 124k. I'm not gonna wait till I have internal damage to tear her down. She's likely due bearings and rings as well as valve guides and finally our cam and heads :)
 
i know for myself and others whos engines already have some milage on them and dont know the starting warm up history, the reason i say this is because our engines are all aluminum and cold clearances can be all over the place till the engine is at proper temp, even with a 170 stat i wonder if the proper clearances are set before driving our trucks, im considering a 180 or 190 stat for cooler weather then see what the gauge reads in summer and go back to 170 or 180, my truck has 75000 so im clueless to what kind of wear and taper the bores may have, if it were new id be dam sure it was warmed up before driving it, but heck the previous owners probably jumped in started it up and had the foot to the floor on a 30 deg day so who knows what it did to it.
 
Can someone tell me how many quarts of oil a srt-10 takes?
 
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