QC Performance Transmission Builders (?)

In all this time those shops didn't try to put in a completely different used trans to see if it does the same thing? ? Doesn't have to be rebuilt, just good enough to survive 5-600 miles. If it still does it then it would be a programming issue right? ? At least they could narrow it down some.


No, that would be too much work and would make too much sense..... :)

It's funny, everyone of these guys (30+ years experience each) have completely different takes on what needs to be inside a 48RE and how they need to be setup.
 
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Balzac (pronounced Ball Sack) Tranny................


It's a good thing I know you very well Ronnie!!:D:D:D:D:D
 
Balzac (pronounced Ball Sack) Tranny................


It's a good thing I know you very well Ronnie!!:D:D:D:D:D

Lmao! Let Ronnie drive your truck a day so he'll convert to a 6 speed and use his money towards go fast parts please sir:burnout:
 
Balzac (pronounced Ball Sack) Tranny................


It's a good thing I know you very well Ronnie!!:D:D:D:D:D

I believe Trannys' need sacks. Umm, maybe not..






I think I mean FILTERS (which you could also use).


:creep:
 
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Lmao! Let Ronnie drive your truck a day so he'll convert to a 6 speed and use his money towards go fast parts please sir:burnout:


Or maybe a good old 727 or even a TH350 with a gear vendors O/D setup like Oldcolt suggested.

I'll have 7 months of Winter to think about it.

As long as the engine doesn't scatter in the meantime when the tranny tries to kickdown into first at 70 m.p.h. (because IT CAN).

"Can you say Rod-Stretch"?..."Sure You Can".. Mr. Rogers.


Options, options.
 
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Screenshot_2015-09-27-10-53-11.png


Screenshot_2015-09-27-10-52-51.png



A couple of updates on the 48RE adventure.

The first picture is a 727 (our parent transmission) that REALLY grenaded when the cast-steel drum let go. As you can see, it ripped right through the tranny blanket, took out the side glass, etc.

So, I went with an aluminum unit instead, in mine (replacing the steel unit).

The second shows my "top of the line" clutches that are shot after 6 w.o.t. (less than 1/8 mile) street tire passes, which is very lame.

It goes to show these things need the proper parts AND proper assembly.


So, some more shiny goodies are going in today...

Screenshot_2015-09-27-11-20-12.png


Screenshot_2015-09-27-11-20-05.png


Both bands were coming on (and staying on) which would explain why the tranny felt like it was in two gears at once. The engine screamed at 6600 while the truck went STRAIGHT UP and only sort of straight AHEAD.

Progress is being made and I'm waiting on a couple of parts.

It should be back on the road Friday so I will provide more info for those having tranny troubles with these trucks and what (finally) worked for me if you're interested.

Ronnie
 
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The driver of that car must have absolutely crapped his drawers, when that happened.
 
Imagine if he had no SFI blanket around tranny? :(
Good to hear he's safe and your making progress Ronnie. We also add more clutches to the packs ;)
 
Imagine if he had no SFI blanket around tranny? :(
Good to hear he's safe and your making progress Ronnie. We also add more clutches to the packs ;)

Fortunately for the average failures those blankets work, but this one was one of those nuclear blasts that was (obviously) hard to contain.

Yes, the clutch pack was a little light but with the wrong drum installed, apparently that's all they could pack in there!

I'm looking forward to a working unit, that's for sure!
 
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alot of dos and donts go into a performance 727 and prolly relate to the re family, Do Not Do water burn outs starting in 1st gear, start in 2nd or drive not manual low1, the drum spins at twice the engine rpm if the sprag fails and the cast drum will explode at about 10-11000rpm, thats would be 5-5500 engine rpm, to be safe install a bolt in sprag, install a billet drum and might as well get an extra clutch in it, you can do aluminum but doesnt last as long, cost for the drum bout 650.00, sprag 150.00, and still do burn outs starting in 2nd gear will eliminate drum explosions. lots more info on torqueflight drum explosions on internet
 
Thanks 572!

Fortunately the 48RE is considerably stronger than the 727 but the Sprag "issue" still exists with it.

Coming out of the waterbox and then making a shift into 2nd right at the pavement will absolutely send the "Sprag" into 2x speed orbit.

There is a billet drum installed this time, a (4) bolt retainer system for the sprag, and a host of other goodies.
I have the good shafts in there from (4) builds ago.

For such a simple design, they sure can be bitchy!

High hopes, fingers crossed for a great 2016 as our driving season here is nearly done..
 
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What sort of power level? I'm going auto and would love overdrive but haven't seen one hold up yet.

The one going into my SRT-10 is 1500+ h.p. capable (not running a billet intermediate)

There are a few 7000 pound diesels around, running 1800 hp through these particular 48REs.
 
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Tranny is back in and working better than it ever has.

It's nice the engine power actually makes it all the way to the driveshaft now instead of tearing up the innards (again).

Good solid 6500 r.p.m. shift points. Excellent part and w.o.t. throttle response. The truck is finally rockin' again!

Fully Warrantied and built by a Hydraulics Engineer.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND COMMERCIAL POWERTRAIN (Balzac, Alberta) to anyone having troubles trying to keep a 48RE working properly in an SRT-10 or your diesels.

As the builder said to me: "Good Luck trying to break this one"!!

So nice to actually be enjoying the truck again after 5-1/2 years.
The tranny is definitely overbuilt, like the engine.

Now I can concentrate on the tune. :)
 
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Just in time for winter :)
Glad your finally getting some positive results with your truck.
Maybe some you southern guys will make it to Castrol in 2016.
 
"Good luck breaking this one". Now that's confidence in your work. You gotta appreciate that kind of workmanship and pride.
 

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