Need rear end advice

I took my truck today to get the rear ratio changed, and while in there they were going to do all bearings seals. My limited slip was still working good, so just the ratio change and bearings. Total cost was going to be $1250. It seemed high, but they had a very good reputation for truck and jeep rears so I went for it.

Dropped it off last night. No noises, no slop in pinion or axles up/down/in/out. Got a phone call at 9 am from the manager. I need a carrier he said. A bolt was broken and they couldn't get it out. I was driving my tractor trailer in stop and go so I just said get me a price. Calls back 10 minutes later with 2 options.

1 - $700 (giving me a deal - LOL) for the new carrier, but would have to wait 3 WEEKS for another appointment. MEanwhile my truck would be locked in their gated lot ripped apart.

2 - $700 for the new carrier, plus $180 overnight shipping. Get the truck back tomorrow for a grand total of $2,200 for a stock carrier, stock bearings, stock shafts and Unitrax gears.

I was not allowed to take the truck for safety reasons, they would not allow it to leave unless it was fixed. Eventually, I just said F you and had my buddy bring his trailer and wave his police badge. I got my truck AFTER I paid them $300 for labor and other Misc. things. Getting in it the seat is all the way forward, and reaks of my new clutch. Made my day even better knowing the ONLY person allowed to move it didn't. Jeremy is 6'1".

I have my truck, and paid them $300 to break the carrier. They snapped the bolt off that goes through the center pin. It had loctite, they used a impact gun. Simple math. They blame me for "abuse". There is no possible way to bend that bolt from abuse.

So as I see it i have 3 options now.

1 - Remove the bolt either with drilling, easy out and heat to melt the loctite. Probably leave the rear at a 4:10 ratio due to time and energy.

2 - Take the carrier out of my spare 4:10 rear and rebuild myself (Time is extremely limited for me until October)

3 - Find a already built rear like what Tony made years ago.

Which would you do? My budget is $2,500 right now. I would consider going slightly higher for a built rear I can roll under.

Does Tony still offer that complete rear setup?

Anyone know a shop I can TRUST to do it for me?


Company name is Ok 4x4 in Stewartsville Nj. Scott Emily dealt with me direct, and Jeremy the "Head Tech" supposedly did the carnage.

Any shop with the word 4X4 should have flashed red lights immediately, but too late for that. So here are your options:

1. Buy a new stock rear end from X2. $1,200 shipped

2. Fix and upgrade this rear end at a reputable shop for viper trucks. $2,500

3. Ask around for someone that can fix it here and possibly save some $$$ and get the job done right. $1,000 +

4. Wait for a deal on a already upgraded rear end and possibly wait a long time to get your truck back up and running for it.

Either way, in the future avoid a shop that does work on any truck. When in doubt, take it to the dealer instead.

Wow, sorry to hear. I hate people cuzza stuff like this

I won't leave my vehicle unattended anywhere and when it does go in for service I watch everything

Sounds like you didn't have much choice and I wish you the very best in getting to resolution on this.

There are jo viper truck shops anywhere near me, Tony being the closest and I haven't had good luck with his overpriced shifter, much less trust him doing a rear. I do however trust the Dts axle as he does not build that.

Last I checked, a dana rear IS a truck rear and a shop that specializes in doing TRUCK rears should have been more then qualified to do it, especially since they specialize in serious off road setups.

I have a entire spare truck, so having a stock spare rear is not a issue.

$2,500 is a rediculous price any way you look at it for a gear change and bearings. In no way should $800 in parts from Roe turn into $2,500 with $1,700 in labor for something as simple as that. I would do it myself if I wasn't working 18 hour days right now. It is a 6 hour job at TOPS.

Never heard of removing that pin/bolt with an impact. When I was a tech everything would have came to a halt until we made the call. Then it would be up to you choose what to do next.
1. Heat it up and see if that works.
2. Seeing nothing was broken inside put the cover back on with new lubricant. Then deal with it later.
3. Go for the throat and burn the pin out.
This Dana 60 is different than the rest. Regular 60's don't have C clips holding the axles in.

After thinking of it, I plan to weld a washer onto the broken bolt, then weld a nut to the washer. The heat will melt the loctite and it should spin right out. They are claiming the bolt is bent and that is why it snapped off. There is no way that bolt can bend in the floating pin that has no pressure on it in that direction. The bolt is basically a glorified cotter pin.

I'm sorry this happened to you. Let me know if there is anything I can do to assist you, since I'm not too far away from you.

That same pin has broken on a few removals and not by impact. They indeed should have slight hear applied in area of bolt end to loosen loctite and expand metal a slight bit. Heating bolt itself will expand bolt in threads and become harder to remove and break for sure. Easy out or welding nut to broken bolt should make it removable. Good luck bud.

Yeah they bend all the time, this will get it out, my bolt broke and the cross shaft was bent as well. Think a new carrier cost me like $300 shipped from unitrax(it's been a few years so I'm not 100% sure).

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Differential-Pinion-Shaft-Lock-Extractor/dp/B0031Q4D5I"]http://www.amazon.com/Differential-Pinion-Shaft-Lock-Extractor/dp/B0031Q4D5I[/ame]

Call Justin and order a complete rear axle and call it a day....

That tool looks like it might be worth a shot.

Your looking for something shapely, smooth and able to take a pounding. That sir is all the advice you need when it comes to rear ends.

If you're willing to tow it a little while you can contact Marty at Supershafts in Long Island. He did the rear of my previous truck and did a great job.

Supershafts and rear ends... Now that sounds like the kind of porn that gets my wheels turning.

Hey if you want I can message Capt. Insano about your rear end problems.

Btw I have rebuilt mine twice, both times that cotterpin/bolt was sheared off before I ever started

DIY...Your a man? Do it!!

mopar-or-no-car said:

DIY...Your a man? Do it!!

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:rock: :rock: :rock: :chain: :rock: :rock: :dontknow:

Wifey said:

:rock: :rock: :rock: :chain: :rock: :rock: :dontknow:

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You do rear ends? If so that's sooooo hot..Because I do tear ends too..

mopar-or-no-car said:

You do rear ends? If so that's sooooo hot..Because I do tear ends too..

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Tear ends? Don't cry, everything will be ok.

Humblex said:

Tear ends? Don't cry, everything will be ok.

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Please excuse Paul's grammar. I think what he meant is TARE ends. Like what I do religiously every time I do the nasties.