Mopar SRT-10 Parts instructions

Deibs said:

I just tried all four and they all worked fine for me.

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leez said:

Hey there guys...& gals, just wanted to reply a little on the exhaust. I have an 05 Yellow Fever edition SRT10 rc truck. I generally NEVER take my vehicles to any shop, for fear they'll NEVER do the job right, not only that but, more than likely a total disregard & lack of respect & care while working on my vehicle has been the result. Anyway, don't want to get me started with that! So, exhaust, I bought a set of OBX headers that came with the mid pipe & 200 cell sub-straight high flow cats. I wasn't exspecting them to be so nice, in quality and appearance, for the price that I paid. It was literally half the cost of my Belanger set w/200cell hi-flow cats. My Belanger headers are top quality, no complaints, I'm just saying for a very reasonable price you're not going to get some crappy, rattle can sprayed thin tube headers from OBX Racing. you'd get a set of heat treated polished SS headers w/1.875" primary tubes on a solid .3875" billet SS flange, that mates to the head & collecting at 3.0" matched w/3.0" sub-straight hi-flow cats & mid-pipes. So I got the rest of the cat-back in 3.0" Mangnaflow that exits through 4.0" tips. I forgot to mention, the OBX Racing headers are street legal & C.A.R.B. badged and approved, which means all 4 o2 sensors, 2 before & 2 after the cats, are there in place just like stock.
My reason for this reply is w/headers & 3.0" complete exhaust out 4.0" tips my reg cab SRT10 is not obnoxiously loud in or out of the cab. There's definitely a CRACKLE when I fire it up, and the off throttle or down shifting gurggle is a sound of beauty as well. So, I'd say go 3.0" all the way!
Lee

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prattiare said:

Great information, THANKS!!!! The Mopar headers must not be ceramic coated. I don't like the look of all that heat tape under the hood. Also, noticed in the install intermedate exhaust pipes pictures, missing cats. Do the Mopar headers have the O2 bungs in them. I have heard you can run without cats by changing ECM's. I want to run long tube headers, catless with dual 3 inch exhaust out the back. Anybody currently running this set up??

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leez said:

Hey there guys...& gals, just wanted to reply a little on the exhaust. I have an 05 Yellow Fever edition SRT10 rc truck. I generally NEVER take my vehicles to any shop, for fear they'll NEVER do the job right, not only that but, more than likely a total disregard & lack of respect & care while working on my vehicle has been the result. Anyway, don't want to get me started with that! So, exhaust, I bought a set of OBX headers that came with the mid pipe & 200 cell sub-straight high flow cats. I wasn't exspecting them to be so nice, in quality and appearance, for the price that I paid. It was literally half the cost of my Belanger set w/200cell hi-flow cats. My Belanger headers are top quality, no complaints, I'm just saying for a very reasonable price you're not going to get some crappy, rattle can sprayed thin tube headers from OBX Racing. you'd get a set of heat treated polished SS headers w/1.875" primary tubes on a solid .3875" billet SS flange, that mates to the head & collecting at 3.0" matched w/3.0" sub-straight hi-flow cats & mid-pipes. So I got the rest of the cat-back in 3.0" Mangnaflow that exits through 4.0" tips. I forgot to mention, the OBX Racing headers are street legal & C.A.R.B. badged and approved, which means all 4 o2 sensors, 2 before & 2 after the cats, are there in place just like stock.
My reason for this reply is w/headers & 3.0" complete exhaust out 4.0" tips my reg cab SRT10 is not obnoxiously loud in or out of the cab. There's definitely a CRACKLE when I fire it up, and the off throttle or down shifting gurggle is a sound of beauty as well. So, I'd say go 3.0" all the way!
Lee

Click to expand...