Oil changes

Raiiin

Raiiin

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Only posting cause this is the first oil change I'm doing with the truck. I've of course read alot. So 0w-40 is what's to be used in the truck? What's the advantages to that over I think my cap says 5w-40?
 
rottenronnie said:
The 0 part is primarily for the high-bleed (stock lifters) operation. The difference between O and 5 is small.
Mobil 1 is a good oil.
Click to expand...
My lifters tap, and I only have 73K on the engine. I'm using Amsoil 0-40, would it help or hurt if I went with 5W-40 to quiet the lifters some? They really don't make any noise until the engine is at operating temp.
 
AMS3 said:
My lifters tap, and I only have 73K on the engine. I'm using Amsoil 0-40, would it help or hurt if I went with 5W-40 to quiet the lifters some? They really don't make any noise until the engine is at operating temp.
Click to expand...


I know 95 percent of people only say use mobil 1 syn. Because of how good the oil is supposed to be. But IMO no you shouldn't lifters are hydraulic which always make noise at idle. Aslong as it's not like a super insane tap then it's perfectly normal to me. mine has 60k
 
Raiiin said:
I know 95 percent of people only say use mobil 1 syn. Because of how good the oil is supposed to be. But IMO no you shouldn't lifters are hydraulic which always make noise at idle. Aslong as it's not like a super insane tap then it's perfectly normal to me. mine has 60k
Click to expand...
No, it's not insanely loud, more of a ticking than anything. I had an 05 QC SLT before this, and I had a little lifter noise, but not as loud as the SRT. I've read on here where folks have replaced the lifters two or three times, still had noise.
 
shorty said:
165,000 miles on Mobil 1----15X50
Click to expand...

Here is a great explanation on why using the 15W50 M1 in your engine doers NOT help....From this site:

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

"Here are some comparison numbers from an 830 HP road race engine on the track:
.
15W50 oil = 80 psi = 265* oil sump temperature
.
5W20 oil = 65 psi = 240* oil sump temperature
.
Here you can see how the thicker oil flowed more slowly through the bearings, thus getting hotter, driving up bearing temperatures and increasing sump temperatures. And the thinner oil flowed more freely and quickly through the bearings, thus cooling and lubricating them better than thicker oil. And this means the oil coming out from the bearings, and going into the sump, is also cooler. And that is why we see the cooler sump temps with this road race engine example.
.
If an engine is running hot, use a thinner oil to increase flow, increase internal component cooling, and help keep sump temperatures down. Keeping oil temps down is important to help keep oil below the threshold of thermal breakdown.
.
Almost no engine should ever need to run oil thicker than a multi-viscosity 30 weight. The lower the hot viscosity rating, the number after the W, the better the hot flow. For example, hot 5W30 flows WAY better than hot 10W60. Thinner oil will also typically increase HP"

Keep in mind, the M1 15W50 ranks 188 on the protection list!!!:eek:

The M1 0W40 "FS" is still in the top 10 at #6 ;)
 
I mentioned before I'm running 0-30 in mine because of the Gen-IV oiling system and particularly the 1-piece oil pump pressure-relief shuttle. 0-40 pressure was higher than it needed to be.
I have noticed a definite drop in oil temperature (based on the o.e.m. pillar temp gauge).
It makes total sense as the thinner oil is pulling heat away faster than the thicker.

"IT ALL MAKES SENSE ONCE YOU FIGURE IT OUT" R.R.
 
Raiiin said:
I know 95 percent of people only say use mobil 1 syn. Because of how good the oil is supposed to be. But IMO no you shouldn't lifters are hydraulic which always make noise at idle. Aslong as it's not like a super insane tap then it's perfectly normal to me. mine has 60k
Click to expand...

The factory hydraulic roller-lifters are high bleed down so the Gen III engines could meet emissions; which they BARELY did in 2005.

The camshaft becomes "smaller" at idle when the lifters are ticking away (collapsing) which allows a drop in the nasty gasses.

I don't know of a better lifter than stock; and with adjustable rocker gear, you can set them where you like.

I preload mine pretty hard so there isn't a great deal of ticking at idle (less than stock).


"IT ALL MAKES SENSE ONCE YOU FIGURE IT OUT" R.R.
 
rottenronnie said:
The factory hydraulic roller-lifters are high bleed down so the Gen III engines could meet emissions; which they BARELY did in 2005.

The camshaft becomes "smaller" at idle when the lifters are ticking away (collapsing) which allows a drop in the nasty gasses.

I don't know of a better lifter than stock; and with adjustable rocker gear, you can set them where you like.

I preload mine pretty hard so there isn't a great deal of ticking at idle (less than stock).


"IT ALL MAKES SENSE ONCE YOU FIGURE IT OUT" R.R.
Click to expand...

What he said lol can you point me
In the direction of some instructions on how to do the pre load ?
 
Raiiin said:
What he said lol can you point me
In the direction of some instructions on how to do the pre load ?
Click to expand...

Sorry, my comment was maybe misleading. The factory rockers are non-adjustable. Lifter clatter at idle is completely normal.
 
A couple of things that can go wrong are: (typically, during a cam change) the lifters are installed improperly (with the oil hole pointing down instead of up). This is where your tick at idle turns into a tap and it will take the camshaft lobe(s) out due to low or no lubrication. Not the engines fault but the cam installers'.
The second is not very common at all and is where the lifter "holster" breaks allowing the lifter to turn so the wheel on the lifter no longer follows the cam lobe. That also will take out the camshaft.

The camshaft and lifters are BOTH well made and reliable and problems with either are rare.

Problems seem to occur when not enough care goes into making engine changes.
 
rottenronnie said:
A couple of things that can go wrong are: (typically, during a cam change) the lifters are installed improperly (with the oil hole pointing down instead of up). This is where your tick at idle turns into a tap and it will take the camshaft lobe(s) out due to low or no lubrication. Not the engines fault but the cam installers'.
The second is not very common at all and is where the lifter "holster" breaks allowing the lifter to turn so the wheel on the lifter no longer follows the cam lobe. That also will take out the camshaft.

The camshaft and lifters are BOTH well made and reliable and problems with either are rare.

Problems seem to occur when not enough care goes into making engine changes.
Click to expand...

Okay cool I was like holy hell I thought you couldnt adjust factory this whole time lol but yea mine has always tick a little you can literally put a broom stick to your motor no brush head then put your ear to it slowly rev up the motor you'll hear everything disappear. I knew it was all hydraulic I just didnt know how to explain it lol got your messages saved for future use
 
Psycho1122 said:
Here is a great explanation on why using the 15W50 M1 in your engine doers NOT help....From this site:

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

"Here are some comparison numbers from an 830 HP road race engine on the track:
.
15W50 oil = 80 psi = 265* oil sump temperature
.
5W20 oil = 65 psi = 240* oil sump temperature
.
Here you can see how the thicker oil flowed more slowly through the bearings, thus getting hotter, driving up bearing temperatures and increasing sump temperatures. And the thinner oil flowed more freely and quickly through the bearings, thus cooling and lubricating them better than thicker oil. And this means the oil coming out from the bearings, and going into the sump, is also cooler. And that is why we see the cooler sump temps with this road race engine example.
.
If an engine is running hot, use a thinner oil to increase flow, increase internal component cooling, and help keep sump temperatures down. Keeping oil temps down is important to help keep oil below the threshold of thermal breakdown.
.
Almost no engine should ever need to run oil thicker than a multi-viscosity 30 weight. The lower the hot viscosity rating, the number after the W, the better the hot flow. For example, hot 5W30 flows WAY better than hot 10W60. Thinner oil will also typically increase HP"

Keep in mind, the M1 15W50 ranks 188 on the protection list!!!:eek:

The M1 0W40 "FS" is still in the top 10 at #6 ;)
Click to expand...

Can you tag me in the list about all the oils I havent found any thing that goes in to detail about the oils would like to learn more about oil specifically
 
AMS3 said:
My lifters tap, and I only have 73K on the engine. I'm using Amsoil 0-40, would it help or hurt if I went with 5W-40 to quiet the lifters some? They really don't make any noise until the engine is at operating temp.
Click to expand...
These engines are noisy even mine with 56k makes a little noise. The dodge Master tech told me its normal for a performance motor.
 
rottenronnie said:
A couple of things that can go wrong are: (typically, during a cam change) the lifters are installed improperly (with the oil hole pointing down instead of up). This is where your tick at idle turns into a tap and it will take the camshaft lobe(s) out due to low or no lubrication. Not the engines fault but the cam installers'.
The second is not very common at all and is where the lifter "holster" breaks allowing the lifter to turn so the wheel on the lifter no longer follows the cam lobe. That also will take out the camshaft.

The camshaft and lifters are BOTH well made and reliable and problems with either are rare.

Problems seem to occur when not enough care goes into making engine changes.
Click to expand...
Well said Rottenronnie.
 
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