Whats your opinion on any of the other air cleaners .. seems you only agree with the stock set up ,, maybe add a K&N filter !
From what I see is that all the after market set ups are not a sealed system and would be less productive for generating HP ..
you are correct about the scoop being in a low pressure zone .. it more for allowing engine compartment heat to escape .. years ago I believe a member on here called Silverback did testing on this , he or was an engineer.. you might still be able to find his threads about it ..
would also like to get more opinions on a workable sealed full Ram air set up for the trucks .. look for Dom505 member .. fastest viper truck he built with JMB Justin ... his set up would be the closest to a real ram air set up that I have seen ,, but I’m not willing to remove the headlight for the beginning of the air intake .. there has to be a better way .
The volent is a sealed system but the scoop intake is in the low pressure are making it less effective or not affective at all .... may a relocation of the scoop to a more useable area at the grill would benefit !
Yes, I do agree that the stock set up performs best in dynamic conditions. Static Dyno results do not reflect real world conditions. Sure, big, goofy, shiny tubes with oversized, colored filter media create a wonderful placebo effect and additional intake noise. Lets think about the basics of the statement. When the stock system can provide more than adequate CFM to the TB at WOT up to Max RPM's, a "shiny" aluminum or ferrous pipe that's oversized does nothing to improve peak combustion efficiency of the engine. In addition, the tubes will be affected by heat soak much easier and quicker. This engine does NOT like high intake temps. (ECU starts to pull timing at 104 degrees IAT) As Ronnie stated, the K&N is a "Hot air" intake. NONE of the intakes are "Ram Air". Especially the Volant. One of the primary rules of any subsonic "Ram Jet" is that the intake pipes MUST gradually ENLARGE as they approach the box. Enlargement must not exceed 10 degrees. The Volant?!? Ummm......NO. Not to mention the other self defeating properties of the design. In it's most simplistic form, the trucks OEM setup uses a scoop in the passenger side grill block off to grab a "slice" of high velocity air and divert it to the inner fender. The fender IS the "box". This "Box" has HUGE volume and allows the air to slow down and recover some pressure to help overcome the engines natural vacuum. The stock filter chamber is sealed to the fender and along with the tube to the TB, it will resist heat soak. It is also completely sealed and sized adequately. (Do you think SRT would undersize this to "choke" the mighty engine?!?) My OBD II testing shows that the stock system stays within 6-8 degrees of ambient under full heat soak, dynamic driving conditions. I would challenge ANY after market set up to match that.
If you want a true "Ram-Air" system, design a system within the trucks "packaging" limitations to meet these primary rules:
- Have a froward facing duct or tube that projects forward SEVERAL inches from any surface.
- The total area of the intake pipes must be significantly greater than the TB area.
- The intakes pipes must enlarge gradually as they approach the box at no more than 10 degrees.
- The box must be totally sealed.
- ECU needs to monitor pressure differences to modify A/F
- The "box" volume and intake length and cross-sectional area MUST be chosen according to Helmholtz formula.
When your done, you need to consider that if 100% of the air energy is converted at 150 MPH, you only can expect to gain @ 3%. (12-15 H.P. on the V10). The "Ram-Air" is a velocity-squared effect. If you double the speed you get 4 times the effect. On the other hand, if you cut the speed from 150 to 75 MPH, you get 1/4 of the effect or 3/4 of 1%. (@ 3.5 H.P.). SRT determined the engines volume and temperature needs were the most critical. Having a fender full of the coolest air possible for the engine to draw on yields the best overall results. EVERYTHING including exhaust flow needs to follow fluid dynamics models.
Lets not even get into the dynamic effects of blocking the "hood hot air vent" (scoop) has on overall engine heat dissipation and front splitter down-force.
Footnote: The 2000 Kawasaki ZX12R has a remarkable "True" ram air system. My testing in high speed and static conditions shows it can produce almost .9 lb. of "boost" over ambient!! It also recovers air-box engine vacuum by 40 MPH at WOT. That's 16 H.P. on a 200 H.P. engine above 150 MPH
Cheers!!