To Clean or Not To Clean

Q

quiller303

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Hi All,

2 year owner of a 06 QC. Not knowing the service history of the truck, I changed out all the fluids, new plugs, coils, leads, brakes, rotors, belt, etc. One thing I didn't replace were the fuel injectors. Truck runs well but with 65K on the odometer I am considering sending them out to be flow tested and cleaned. I know that if all 10 injectors are not flowing within a few percentage points of each other, I may be losing some performance. I would be interested to know what you guys think of this and whether it is not worth the effort and expense.

I would also like to know if I should change out the O2 sensors for the same reason.

Thanks!
 
2 easy things I did to my QC10 that I thought made a noticeable improvement in drivability and throttle response was - I had the dealer service the transmission and tighten the bands. And I switched to 20-50 engine oil. The trans shifted crisper and more like it was when new. The bands on my truck were definitely out. And I think (but can't prove) that the thicker oil keeps the lifters pumped up at low RPM. It had a little more giddy up off idle.
 
50-60,000 miles recommended. Mine went out before that so I change them every 30K


I've never used injector cleaner on anything, nor have I had them "power cleaned" or whatever you like to call it. There seems to be enough detergent in name brand gasolines to keep them working properly.
I had mine flowed though, as they put out considerably more than stock ones do so I jammed the richest ones in the back.
 
I drove around for several thousand kilometers then whipped the heads off as a borescope was inconclusive. Couldn't ask for a better burn pattern.
 
Just been for a skid, I am getting a slight flutter at real light throttle and then a check engine light so I guess a tune up is going to be happening real soon.
I have 68k on the clock. Feels like a dodgy plug or injector No Scan tool yet. Had one for my jeep but it not work on truck:(
 
Key on-off-on-off-ON to access On Board Diagnostics.
Codes displayed will help narrow down issues.
 
P0207 came up. Looks like #7 injector/wiring issue. I can work with that
 
Last edited:
505 said:
2 easy things I did to my QC10 that I thought made a noticeable improvement in drivability and throttle response was - I had the dealer service the transmission and tighten the bands. And I switched to 20-50 engine oil. The trans shifted crisper and more like it was when new. The bands on my truck were definitely out. And I think (but can't prove) that the thicker oil keeps the lifters pumped up at low RPM. It had a little more giddy up off idle.
Click to expand...

Yes, the zero weight oil is/was to provide lifter collapse at idle to pass emissions.
 
Oh dear. swapped injector to #5. Cleared code then went for a drive. It is fine until in 30mph area as the throttle is so light it stutters then throws the light.
I was an hour visiting a friend and it cleared itself when I left and was fine most of way home when using a bit more throttle until back on super light throttle then ping it came on again. It maybe a crappy tune as the performance shop in Wellington where it was tuned on the dyno has closed down. The dyno sheet I have been given reads like crap and shows it falling over at 5000rpm. Smells like a shady job to me, no AFR either. There is definitely some work needed there.
 
rottenronnie said:
Key on-off-on-off-ON to access On Board Diagnostics.
Codes displayed will help narrow down issues.
Click to expand...
I had a engine light come on about a month ago, and tried the key on, key off trick. Where does it show the code? In the dash, the overhead???
 
Kiwi SRT10 said:
Oh dear. swapped injector to #5. Cleared code then went for a drive. It is fine until in 30mph area as the throttle is so light it stutters then throws the light.
I was an hour visiting a friend and it cleared itself when I left and was fine most of way home when using a bit more throttle until back on super light throttle then ping it came on again. It maybe a crappy tune as the performance shop in Wellington where it was tuned on the dyno has closed down. The dyno sheet I have been given reads like crap and shows it falling over at 5000rpm. Smells like a shady job to me, no AFR either. There is definitely some work needed there.
Click to expand...

The stutter (could be too much advance in the tune) and/or the throttle position sensor; I've had those go bad without tripping a code. And/or a vacuum leak.
 
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