Power Steering Line.....

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by spinafable, Dec 20, 2019.

Car Parts
  1. spinafable

    spinafable Full Access Member

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    My truck has about 53k miles. Never had any leaks until the squirrel decided to nest in the engine bay.
     
  2. spinafable

    spinafable Full Access Member

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    After sitting for three hours at the dealer today they let me know that the hose and fittings they installed failed once they started the flush. They spoke with the district manager and are now sending my original hose and fittings (which they previously told me they threw away due to condition) to a local hose shop to have new ones fabricated. Looks like I will be dragging this saga into the new year. But hopefully in a week or two it will be fixed!

    I hope everyone has a safe and fun New Year's Eve and may the new year bring only the best!
     
  3. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    Damn, your truck is basically brand new, I hate to hear that. I'm assuming you can't get OEM hoses?
     
  4. spinafable

    spinafable Full Access Member

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    Apparently it's the OEM hose and fittings that keep failing.
     
  5. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    I’ve got 29k on my 05 RC and it appears as though all my lines are OEM as well. Not sure if the original owner replaced them or not but no leaks. Well, I’m just starting to see the valve covers dribble a tad, time to try and re tighten them.
    Since reading about this common issue I’ve been keeping an eye on them and well actually on everything just cause I can’t believe how good a condition she’s in.
     
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  6. spinafable

    spinafable Full Access Member

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    Yup just keep all squirrels away from your truck and if you do need a hose, go to a fabrication shop.

    Though, per this morning's voicemail from the Service Manager at the dealer the hose from the fabricator is too long. So not all fabricators are created equal.
     
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  7. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    When mine start leaking I’m def gonna go to a fab shop and have them make me a set. As mentioned earlier having the same size diameter hose will keep the OEM feel in the steering. Learning everyday on here!
     
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  8. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, my valve cover gaskets are leaking a bit. It's annoying to be sitting at a light and smelling the oil. I have the new gaskets, but I'm gathering the extra change to get a set of powder coated candy apple wine red covers to install on the new gaskets.
     
  9. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    Yep, me too. The guys who are still on here are a wealth of information.
     
  10. GSJake

    GSJake Active Member

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    These work and do not leak when installed properly.

    https://shop.jtsvp.com/product.sc?productId=550&categoryId=234

    I have them on my truck and not a drip.
     
  11. spinafable

    spinafable Full Access Member

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    I will keep this in mind if I ever have to replace the line again. My saga is finally over. Took them keeping the truck over night but I just picked it up and so far so good.

    Lessons learned: 1. Never, ever, EVER take my truck to the dealer. 2. Always wear a button stating "Yes, I know my truck has a viper v10 engine and is unique" to avoid being asked this question continually. 3. Having an enthusiastic conversation with another disgruntled customer on the worthlessness of the dealer will quickly bring the service manager out of hiding.
     
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  12. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Hydraulic hose doctor is the easy permanent fix and cheap.
    I have noticed that the problem OEM lines on my beast have all been changed:)
     
  13. spinafable

    spinafable Full Access Member

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    I will keep that in mind. So far so good, hopefully things will continue to hold.
     
  14. spinafable

    spinafable Full Access Member

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    Took a drive last night and my check engine light came on. I had a chance today to take a look and it gave a P1499-HYDRAULIC FAN SOLENOID CIRCUIT error. I have been reading up on this in the forum and so far it looks like the first course of action is to check the wiring to the fan. But, is it possible this is related to the steering fluid issue I had recently where they replaced the line after numerous failed attempts? The truck never felt quite the same after they installed the new line but this may be a completely different problem.

    Any tips on what else I should look at while checking the wiring to the fan?
     
  15. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    From a post here a few years back:

    Hello: We have the same hydraulic-fan system that is used on the 2006 5.7L Hemis so there are a ton of them out there.
    These are a balanced assembly that have to be replaced as an entire unit although they can (sort of) come apart.

    Pick and choose from the information below.

    Be Careful as THOSE FAN BLADES ARE SHARP!!!



    http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/3701-Cooling-issues-overheating-in-traffic


    HYDRAULIC FAN MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES


    DIAGNOSIS: This diagnostic procedure should be used if the engine overheats or the A/C compressor cycles rapidly. 1. Non-hydraulic system - Check for low coolant, faulty thermostat, faulty temperature sensor, etc. - Is there a Non-hydraulic system problem? a. Yes >> Repair as necessary. b. No >> Go to Step #2.
    2. Power steering fluid - Check the power steering fluid level in the reservoir - Is the fluid in the power steering pump reservoir below the dipstick “Add” mark? a. Yes >> Check for leaks and repair as required. Fill the reservoir to the proper level and proceed to Step #3. b. No >> Go to Step #3. CAUTION: Fan blade and/or shroud may have sharp edges! 
    3. Radiator cooling fan - Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable from the battery. Rotate the fan counterclockwise (as viewed by the driver) using fingertips on the outer fan blade. Move the fan through 7 full rotations and notice the drag torque. - Does the fan spin freely through all 7 rotations with minimal finger exertion? a. Yes >> Go to Step #6. b. No >> Go to Step #4.
    4. Does the torque needed to spin the fan significantly change as the fan is rotated? a. Yes >> Go to Step #18. b. No >> Go to Step #5
    5. Is it difficult to turn the fan or does it require the effort of more than one finger? a. Yes >> Go to Step #18 b. No >> Go to Step #6
    6. Testing the system - Connect the negative battery cable to the battery. Using the StarSCAN® perform the following tests with the engine running at idle speed. - Does the fan accelerate when given a 100% duty cycle command? a. Yes >> Go to Step #7. b. No >> Go to Step #12.
    7. Does the fan decelerate when the duty cycle is changed from 100% to 0%? a. Yes >> Go to Step #8. b. No >> Go to Step #18.
    8. At 0% duty cycle, turn the steering wheel to full left or right stop for up to 5 seconds (to stop fan rotation). - Does the fan rotate when the steering wheel is returned to center at 0% duty cycle? a. Yes >> Go to Step #9. b. No >> Go to Step #10.
    9. Repeat Step #8, ten times. - Does the fan always resume rotation after the wheel is returned to center? a. Yes >> The hydraulic fan motor is OK. b. No >> Go to Step #10.
    10. Turn the A/C system on. The ambient temperature or sun load must be high enough to cause the A/C compressor to cycle, this will normally be above 15.6° C / 60° F. With the A/C system operational, the fan speed should increase as the refrigerant pressure rises. If the A/C system does not operate because of low temperature (below 15.6° C / 60° F) or sun load, use the StarSCAN® to step the fan control motor solenoid duty cycle to 100%. - Does the fan always start soon after the A/C is turned “On” (or the duty cycle is set to 100%)? a. Yes >> Go to Step #11. b. No >> Go to Step #18.
    11. Repeat Step #10, ten times stopping the fan between tests by turning the steering wheel. Does the fan speed always increase when A/C is turned “On” (100% duty cycle)? a. Yes >> The hydraulic motor is OK. b. No >> Go to Step #18.
    12. Does pump noise increase indicating that the system pressure is increasing? a. Yes >> Go to Step #18. b. No >> Go to Step #13.
    13. ELECTRICAL TESTING - Disconnect the 3 pin connector of the fan motor assembly jumper harness from the vehicle engine compartment wiring harness. Using the connector of the jumper harness for electrical measurements will normally allow easier access than if the connector at the hydraulic motor pressure control valve is used. Measure the resistance between terminal 1 and terminal 2 of the fan motor assembly jumper harness to determine fan motor solenoid resistance. (Fig. 3) - Is the resistance between 7 and 13 ohms? a. Yes >> Go to Step #14. b. No >> Go to Step #17.
    14. Fabricate a 3 wire jumper harness between the vehicle engine compartment wiring harness and the fan motor assembly jumper harness connector. Insert an ammeter in the K173 BR/VT circuit (Fig. 3). Start the engine and set the duty cycle to 100%. - Is the current draw on circuit K173, BR/VT, between 0.5 and 1.5 amps? a. Yes >> Go to Step #17. b. No >> Go to Step #15.
    15. Inspect for shorted or broken wires. - Were any wires shorted or broken? a. Yes >> Repair as necessary. b. No >> Go to Step #16.
    16. Replace the Front Control Module (FCM).
    17. Replace the fan control motor solenoid and retest the hydraulic fan motor.
    18. Replace the hydraulic fan/motor/shroud assembly.

    DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES:
    Try the Fan-Spinning Test Above: Numbers 3, 4 & 5. This test seems conclusive and if mine passes, the most expensive replacement item is still functioning and an electronic control has malfunctioned.
    If that isn’t the case, then the power steering pump may be weak. I don’t think that is true as it isn’t noisy and the steering is fine.
    If the spin test fails, that leaves the purchase of a new Fan Module Assembly.
    If the spin-test passes, make sure the electrical connector for the fan is hooked up and is in good (clean) condition. Then check the resistance of Pin 1 and Pin 2 of the connector as in Number 13 above. It may need to be replaced.
    If the systems checked have passed thus far….
    Disconnect the water temperature sensor during warm-up. At this time I can listen to the power steering pump as in #12 above.

    This is what I did: (A Big Thanks to Dan Lesser)

    Once the engine warmed up to about one ¼ up on the gauge, I disconnected the coolant temperature sensor near the upper rad hose (which instantly pins the temperature gauge); and in about 2 seconds, the fan started roaring away at full-speed which meant much of the electrical and hydraulic fan systems were just fine.


    More...http://www.wkjeeps.com/TSB/tsb_wk_0700205.pdf


    Good Luck!

    Ronnie
     
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  16. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    As far as the truck not feeling the same...

    IF you change the PS hoses to something smaller in diameter, you are decreasing volume and increasing pressure compared to the way it was with the o.e.m. hoses at any given rpm so yeah, it will feel different.

    I didn't like the aftermarket power steering hoses for that and other reasons (they leaked...badly), so I took my OEM power steering lines to an industrial hose shop and had some made.
     
  17. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Oops..a repeat...
     
  18. spinafable

    spinafable Full Access Member

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    Thank you so much Ronnie!!
     
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