Spark plug change interval

Paul G

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Factory change interval is 15000 miles on the factory Champion RC12ECC plugs. At that mileage the plug gap is opened up and they do show wear. They need to be changed. I have been using NGK ZFR5N V power plugs, at 15000 miles the gap has opened, but they are showing almost no wear. I have 2 sets of them like this. I am thinking of just cleaning them, re-gapping, and using them again for another 15000 miles.

Has anyone re used these NGK plugs after re-gapping them?
 
I know the NGK Iridium Plugs have a 2-stepped firing point.
Once the thinnest part of the firing-tip wears down (it gets to a wider area below it), the plugs are done.
The "problem" with most plugs when they are worn is they still fire BUT the spark is weaker and later (timing wise) and although there is no misfire, the fuel mileage tends to drop off; sometimes quite dramatically.

If that V area fires easily, it may not once that is worn away, I don't know.

The plugs are cheap enough and not $15.00 each like the ones I have to use. I'd turf them and buy new ones.

I'd phone NGK Tech and ask them what they think about regapping.
 
Yes they are the V style. The v groove in the electrode is still visable and looks very good yet on these 15000 mile plugs. How often do you change the Iridium plugs?
 
I don't know yet.
There is only 6500 miles on them.
I'm using aftermarket heads and more compression so I'd be happy with 15,000 miles.
 
Factory change interval is 15000 miles on the factory Champion RC12ECC plugs. At that mileage the plug gap is opened up and they do show wear. They need to be changed.

Wait.. we only get 15K on a plug change???
 
The "problem" with modern ignition systems is they channel power directly from Thor.
There has to be something VERY wrong with a spark plug these days for it not to fire at all.
Years ago, engine misfire was the #1 indicator that it was time for a tune-up.

Not the case anymore so as long as the engine is running, guys seem to forget about plug change intervals.

The new('ish) Hemi engines have 16 plugs and the non-D.I.Y. owners aren't anxious to have someone change spark plugs. The dealers charge $700.00 to do that in Calgary, Canada. Plus the mystery charges like "shop supplies" and environmental fees for Greta to save the planet from our stupidity. ;)
(It's been recently suggested we switch to electric missiles as they are WAY better for the environment...)

So, I've owned (4) 5.7L Hemis so far and if the plug changes are left too long, they drop off pretty fast in the fuel economy department.
They still seem to run fine but the plugs are done.

If a plug needs (for example) 16,432 volts to fire, that is right when it will fire.
If you purchase more powerful coil packs they provide more reserve.
So, if your newly purchased coil is rated at 75,000 volts, it doesn't mean every plug will now fire at the rated 75,000 volts.
The plug we were talking about still fires at 16,432 volts with or without upgrade coils. As it wears, the plug will require more and more voltage before the spark jumps the gap and lights the fuel and air.

The vast majority of our truck engines will do just fine with the o.e.m. ignition systems.

The ORIGINAL Hemispherical combustion chambers are notoriously hard on plugs as there is NO natural squish/quench to cool them down. With the old dual-point ignition system I had on my 426 Hemi (even with a 40,000 volt aftermarket coil), they wouldn't last more than 1500 miles before starting to misfire and fart around at 6500 rpm. Changing out to a Chrysler electronic easily extended plug life by 5 times what it was with the anemic dual point. The plugs themselves still wore out fast compared to newer engines.

Anyway, back on point: The plugs will still fire, the engine will still run quite well. IF you are fussy and/or trying to optimize gas mileage and horsepower, change your plugs when the gas mileage starts to drop off and/or the gap has grown rather large (because they are worn out).

Champion used to make a spark plug flashlight (mine still works from 1972) so you can have a proper look at the spark plug (particularly the ceramic). Without one, have a look at the firing tip with a decent magnifying glass under good light. Compare it to the new spark plug you just bought. If the firing tip is considerably worn, change them all. Keep track of how long they last and that is your change interval.

Another ramble on my part but it is 31 degrees below zero right now and there isn't much going on.

Ronnie
 
Thanks Ronnie for the info as always good stuff!

Why 2 plugs per cylinder in the new Hemi?

I should expect only 15K on the factory champions?
 
Wow I put a set of Bosch multi fire in , and didn't change them for 80k miles no issues....

thewelshm
 
I just checked the gap on the NGK's and put them back in. They are holding up well. Much better than the factory champions did.
 
The "problem" with modern ignition systems is they channel power directly from Thor.
There has to be something VERY wrong with a spark plug these days for it not to fire at all.
Years ago, engine misfire was the #1 indicator that it was time for a tune-up.

Not the case anymore so as long as the engine is running, guys seem to forget about plug change intervals.

The new('ish) Hemi engines have 16 plugs and the non-D.I.Y. owners aren't anxious to have someone change spark plugs. The dealers charge $700.00 to do that in Calgary, Canada. Plus the mystery charges like "shop supplies" and environmental fees for Greta to save the planet from our stupidity. ;)
(It's been recently suggested we switch to electric missiles as they are WAY better for the environment...)

So, I've owned (4) 5.7L Hemis so far and if the plug changes are left too long, they drop off pretty fast in the fuel economy department.
They still seem to run fine but the plugs are done.

If a plug needs (for example) 16,432 volts to fire, that is right when it will fire.
If you purchase more powerful coil packs they provide more reserve.
So, if your newly purchased coil is rated at 75,000 volts, it doesn't mean every plug will now fire at the rated 75,000 volts.
The plug we were talking about still fires at 16,432 volts with or without upgrade coils. As it wears, the plug will require more and more voltage before the spark jumps the gap and lights the fuel and air.

The vast majority of our truck engines will do just fine with the o.e.m. ignition systems.

The ORIGINAL Hemispherical combustion chambers are notoriously hard on plugs as there is NO natural squish/quench to cool them down. With the old dual-point ignition system I had on my 426 Hemi (even with a 40,000 volt aftermarket coil), they wouldn't last more than 1500 miles before starting to misfire and fart around at 6500 rpm. Changing out to a Chrysler electronic easily extended plug life by 5 times what it was with the anemic dual point. The plugs themselves still wore out fast compared to newer engines.

Anyway, back on point: The plugs will still fire, the engine will still run quite well. IF you are fussy and/or trying to optimize gas mileage and horsepower, change your plugs when the gas mileage starts to drop off and/or the gap has grown rather large (because they are worn out).

Champion used to make a spark plug flashlight (mine still works from 1972) so you can have a proper look at the spark plug (particularly the ceramic). Without one, have a look at the firing tip with a decent magnifying glass under good light. Compare it to the new spark plug you just bought. If the firing tip is considerably worn, change them all. Keep track of how long they last and that is your change interval.

Another ramble on my part but it is 31 degrees below zero right now and there isn't much going on.

Ronnie
Gosh Ronnie it's a nice summers day here in NZ 28C sunny, light breeze, I might crank the BEAST up and scare a few locals:D Hahaha
 
What is the gapping dimension supposed to be?
35 I think
Demon coils and wires they get opened up to 55-60 from what I have read
OEM are multi vehicle fit for the shopping baskets and people movers. Not a very strong spark, so small gap
I changed from OEM points set up on my old 68 Riviera 18kv 28 thou plug gap to a HEI set up 65kv with 55 thou plug gap. Massive difference, cleaner smelling exhaust, idled a lot faster almost 1500rpm. Big wake up...just a whole different engine.
I don't expect that sort of difference on the truck, but any extra power and wider gap will get a better burn. Better burn equals more power, less fuel waste.
I can't use truck and fuel economy in the same sentence, so it's less fuel waste.
I am still waiting on the Torrie tune and Demon coils and wires to arrive....it is taking forever. Christmas BS I suppose.
I should be more patient....na I would have bought a Prius if I was patient:eek:
 
35 I think
Demon coils and wires they get opened up to 55-60 from what I have read
OEM are multi vehicle fit for the shopping baskets and people movers. Not a very strong spark, so small gap
I changed from OEM points set up on my old 68 Riviera 18kv 28 thou plug gap to a HEI set up 65kv with 55 thou plug gap. Massive difference, cleaner smelling exhaust, idled a lot faster almost 1500rpm. Big wake up...just a whole different engine.
I don't expect that sort of difference on the truck, but any extra power and wider gap will get a better burn. Better burn equals more power, less fuel waste.
I can't use truck and fuel economy in the same sentence, so it's less fuel waste.
I am still waiting on the Torrie tune and Demon coils and wires to arrive....it is taking forever. Christmas BS I suppose.
I should be more patient....na I would have bought a Prius if I was patient:eek:
LMAO, you have a great sense of humor. I appreciate the information, I'm thinking of going with the NGK Iridium plugs. So should I go with a higher gap? Say around 40, if I decide to stick with OEM coils and wires? Also, do you have a link for the Demon coils and wires with P/N's for our trucks?
 
JTS do hi power coils and wires
also Performance distributors, Summit Racing
They come up as DUI or Davis Unified Ignition Screamin' Demon coils. Read the blurb and decide what is best for you as you have to take the inlet manifold off to change coils and wires.
https://performancedistributors.com/product/viper-firepower-ignition-kit/
What a stupid place to put the coils and wires. What was Dodge thinking! Is there an aftermarket bracket set up to install the coils? Firewall maybe? And if so, are there longer wires to address the different placement of the coils? How much are the intake gaskets, and do you happen to know the torque of the bolts? Sorry for all the questions.
 

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