You will be just fine with .040
New To Me
- Thread starter Kiwi SRT10
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Further, wide gaps WILL place a load on everything else so (for example) if your have "iffy" cables, a spark would rather jump out of the iffy cable to ground instead of trying to jump a plug gap that is too large and further away. That would be extra work and I'm sure you've heard current will take the shortest path and/or every path available to it.
Wide gaps will make your entire ignition system work harder.
N.A. Performance engines see over 1000 psi in the cylinder at wide open throttle and that makes it even harder to jump a wide plug gap. Ditto for supercharged engines. High horsepower stuff I've been involved with likes gaps under .030. Like maybe .027
If (for example) .060 works with brand new plugs, they may not fire reliably at that gap for long and require a re-gap in a short time as the firing point and electrode wear. In reality (in this example) the engine would misfire at .065 and it will work until the plug gap wears to .065 and then start to crap out.
Recommended gaps are there for a reason.
But it's fun to test limits (I do it all the time).
Ask my wife...
NO, Don't !!!
Wide gaps will make your entire ignition system work harder.
N.A. Performance engines see over 1000 psi in the cylinder at wide open throttle and that makes it even harder to jump a wide plug gap. Ditto for supercharged engines. High horsepower stuff I've been involved with likes gaps under .030. Like maybe .027
If (for example) .060 works with brand new plugs, they may not fire reliably at that gap for long and require a re-gap in a short time as the firing point and electrode wear. In reality (in this example) the engine would misfire at .065 and it will work until the plug gap wears to .065 and then start to crap out.
Recommended gaps are there for a reason.
But it's fun to test limits (I do it all the time).
Ask my wife...
NO, Don't !!!
Low power small gap
If your coils deliver very high voltage then larger gap
Demon coils paperwork recommends 65 thou to utilise the coil's power
Why bother with aftermarket coils if you run 40 thou?
The whole point is to supply more power to jump a bigger gap which will in turn hopefully burn more of what is in your combustion chamber.
In your coil comparisons which ones had the highest output and what plug gap are they recommending?
GSJake
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Hello AMS3.. questions.?
Mopar performance coils: Part number for these. I thought our coils were plucked out of the minivan line.. one from the 4 cylinder and on from the 6>?
Live Wire: These or the MSD set? https://www.roeracing.com/product/spark-plug-wires-msd-8-5mm-super-conductor-wires-92-17/
AMS3-
Regardless of what plug gap you decide on, here are things to consider:
#1 If you are opening the gap way up to the .060+ range, make sure the electrode is directly under the firing tip. It's a good thing to do this, regardless of the gap you decide on.
Generally speaking (as discussed), a wider plug gap will start a larger flame front and has the potential to provide a more thorough burn which seems to help primarily with gas mileage, to a point.
For a coil manufacturer to say to set your plugs at .065 is certainly one way to announce bragging rights for your coils and (maybe) introduce a wow factor. Your engine may or may not care about it. Wider gaps can help, but do cause your ignition system to work harder as the gap increases. If it's in good shape, fill your boots and go for .065 as they suggest.
Only IF the plugs require the higher voltage provided by the Demon coils (or others), will they use it to fire. Again, a 50KV coil does not fire at 50KV every time it fires. It may HAVE TO max-out at 50KV however, if the plugs are gapped at .065, I don't know.
Maybe your particular combustion chamber (overall engine condition aside) would like .045 or .050 or .053, or .060. If we all had enough time in life to play around with this stuff under ideal conditions, it might provide some useful data.
#2 Mark your socket somehow (tape, paint, whatever) and put your plug in the socket so the electrode points to your socket mark.
If you install the plug so the electrode is pointing between 10 and 2 o'clock (up towards the intake manifold), that is a great spot for it to be. Torque to 20 ft. lbs. (or "pounds feet" if you are younger) without using any thread lube. Proper torque is important for allowing the plug to bail heat, as designed. Thread lube insulates a plugs ability to bail heat AND makes it easy to over-torque your plugs (not good in aluminum).
There are washers you can buy to help lineup the plugs (as above) for "indexing" but instead, as all the plug threads start in a different place, try another plug until it does lineup where you want it.
I wouldn't worry to much if it ends up and 9 or 3 o'clock, just avoid the electrode pointing down towards the ground.
Small things add up.
Sunday morning ramblings...
Regardless of what plug gap you decide on, here are things to consider:
#1 If you are opening the gap way up to the .060+ range, make sure the electrode is directly under the firing tip. It's a good thing to do this, regardless of the gap you decide on.
Generally speaking (as discussed), a wider plug gap will start a larger flame front and has the potential to provide a more thorough burn which seems to help primarily with gas mileage, to a point.
For a coil manufacturer to say to set your plugs at .065 is certainly one way to announce bragging rights for your coils and (maybe) introduce a wow factor. Your engine may or may not care about it. Wider gaps can help, but do cause your ignition system to work harder as the gap increases. If it's in good shape, fill your boots and go for .065 as they suggest.
Only IF the plugs require the higher voltage provided by the Demon coils (or others), will they use it to fire. Again, a 50KV coil does not fire at 50KV every time it fires. It may HAVE TO max-out at 50KV however, if the plugs are gapped at .065, I don't know.
Maybe your particular combustion chamber (overall engine condition aside) would like .045 or .050 or .053, or .060. If we all had enough time in life to play around with this stuff under ideal conditions, it might provide some useful data.
#2 Mark your socket somehow (tape, paint, whatever) and put your plug in the socket so the electrode points to your socket mark.
If you install the plug so the electrode is pointing between 10 and 2 o'clock (up towards the intake manifold), that is a great spot for it to be. Torque to 20 ft. lbs. (or "pounds feet" if you are younger
) without using any thread lube. Proper torque is important for allowing the plug to bail heat, as designed. Thread lube insulates a plugs ability to bail heat AND makes it easy to over-torque your plugs (not good in aluminum). There are washers you can buy to help lineup the plugs (as above) for "indexing" but instead, as all the plug threads start in a different place, try another plug until it does lineup where you want it.
I wouldn't worry to much if it ends up and 9 or 3 o'clock, just avoid the electrode pointing down towards the ground.
Small things add up.
Sunday morning ramblings...
I got my Demon Coils and Live Wires from Performance Distributors
https://performancedistributors.com/product/viper-firepower-ignition-kit/
Worth a look
GSJake
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Ahh they make both the coils and the wires. They do look sharp!
Are these better then the MSD set?
Thanks Kiwi!
I like the way the ends are sealed against spark leakage and the fibreglass sheathing to protect from the hot bits, better...it becomes a personal thing and what you believe. The basic physics made sense, then there was the price lol
The problem for me is the exchange rate is only 62c for 1 NZDollar then there is freight and then 15%GST (Goods and Services Tax) on the lot. So there is more than just what the part is, to take into consideration. A small difference in price at one end becomes quite large at my end. As I am just a poor truck driver some of these prices make my eyes water. I try my best to spend wisely as I can't afford to do these things more than once. BUT it is what I choose to drive and the wife loves it. I certainly ain't complaining. It is still better than a Prius hahaha hang on a poke in the eye with a burnt stick is better than that.
hang on a poke in the eye with a burnt stick is better than that.
I feel your pain. Goods from the US magically double (or triple) once they get to me in Canada. GST and other mysterious charges. Order (2) of something and they often get separated in shipping. Then I get to pay all of those charges twice.
I sure am glad we support "free trade" between Canada and the US.
I sure am glad we support "free trade" between Canada and the US.
beastmode1
Full Access Member
KIWI the Monaros got nothing on you lol!!!!!
beastmode1
Full Access Member
Like we say in the USA it costs money to go faster lol!!!!The problem for me is the exchange rate is only 62c for 1 NZDollar then there is freight and then 15%GST (Goods and Services Tax) on the lot. So there is more than just what the part is, to take into consideration. A small difference in price at one end becomes quite large at my end. As I am just a poor truck driver some of these prices make my eyes water. I try my best to spend wisely as I can't afford to do these things more than once. BUT it is what I choose to drive and the wife loves it. I certainly ain't complaining. It is still better than a Prius hahaha
beastmode1
Full Access Member
We are spoilt here in the USA it costs money to go faster. In other countries they charge for gas in liters so 1 gallon is 5 liters. It can get pricey pretty quick.
Oh Yeah 1 US Gal 3.78 litres 1 Imperial Gal 4.5 litres Gas/Petrol is $2.42/litre for 95RON (90) We have to use these beasts sparingly.
There are a lot of micro cars on the road here. No good for me as they are made for the Asian domestic market. I am 6'4", never gunna work
We make it here but the infinite wisdom of our current government has it setup so we import it from overseas, starving out local markets.
Out in the Atlantic ocean, there are no pollution laws so 24/7 the barges are doing their part to produce beautiful sunsets around the world.
90.1 per liter for 89
121.9 per liter for 94
Out in the Atlantic ocean, there are no pollution laws so 24/7 the barges are doing their part to produce beautiful sunsets around the world.
90.1 per liter for 89
121.9 per liter for 94
I'm 6'-1" and drove a Smart Car around for a dozen or so years.
The mighty Mercedes 0.83 liter (50 cubic inches), 3 cylinder turbo-diesel.
At 6'-3" you would also fit in one.
When it was newly chipped, it would go WAY too fast (as the cabriolet roof was bulged up like a balloon ready to burst) for the design, so the top speed was limited to something more reasonable from the GPS reported speed (the speedo only went to 140 km/hr.) and was pinned.
Average fuel mileage was 3.5 L/100 km or 80 miles per gallon.
I put over 100,000 miles on it and replaced the air filter a couple of times, regular oil changes and the starter (twice). That's it, NO injector cleaners (ever), nadda.
They are not without their issues.
As it was shorter than my 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan VN2000 motorcycle, it was SMALL.
Even with Blizzaks (soft-compound snow tires), it would get pushed around by the wind. Add icy highways to the mix and the second time that combination tried to kill me, I thought it was time to look for something else.
Enjoy your SRT-10.
They are special.
The mighty Mercedes 0.83 liter (50 cubic inches), 3 cylinder turbo-diesel.
At 6'-3" you would also fit in one.
When it was newly chipped, it would go WAY too fast (as the cabriolet roof was bulged up like a balloon ready to burst) for the design, so the top speed was limited to something more reasonable from the GPS reported speed (the speedo only went to 140 km/hr.) and was pinned.
Average fuel mileage was 3.5 L/100 km or 80 miles per gallon.
I put over 100,000 miles on it and replaced the air filter a couple of times, regular oil changes and the starter (twice). That's it, NO injector cleaners (ever), nadda.
They are not without their issues.
As it was shorter than my 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan VN2000 motorcycle, it was SMALL.
Even with Blizzaks (soft-compound snow tires), it would get pushed around by the wind. Add icy highways to the mix and the second time that combination tried to kill me, I thought it was time to look for something else.
Enjoy your SRT-10.
They are special.
beastmode1
Full Access Member
Here in the Rockies we run 91 Octane Premium unleaded to the altitude of 5280 ft to 12000 ft. Even at high altitude my 10 still terrorizes the fords chevys and all the dodge trucks wannabes lol!!!!
Wow at 12,000 you are down a whopping 42% in horsepower!!
1 mile high and 2 mile high....isn't there a club there....
Yeah ok we were driving a truck across the 70
Used to drop Tequila at Western Distribution Aurora. Pick up meat from Greely and Fort Morgan to go to Laredo TX in 2002
Good times, long time ago now.
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