Need help on 04 RC that won't start

A bit of history:
In 1954 Nash-Kelvinator (an appliance company) acquired Hudson Motor Car and formed American Motors (thank-you Wiki).

So as far as handling goes, it was top heavy (due to shape) and with belted tires and construction history I would say it was somewhere between a deep freeze and a waterbed.

A total chick-magnet!
 
rottenronnie said:
A bit of history:
In 1954 Nash-Kelvinator (an appliance company) acquired Hudson Motor Car and formed American Motors (thank-you Wiki).

So as far as handling goes, it was top heavy (due to shape) and with belted tires and construction history I would say it was somewhere between a deep freeze and a waterbed.

A total chick-magnet!
Click to expand...
Hmm Yes I remember those. My dad wanted one. Thank god he never got one! He did get a Lloyd 600. Little German car 2 stroke engine
I bought a 1971 Vauxhall Victor 3300 :) Much more fun
 
rottenronnie said:
A bit of history:
In 1954 Nash-Kelvinator (an appliance company) acquired Hudson Motor Car and formed American Motors (thank-you Wiki).

So as far as handling goes, it was top heavy (due to shape) and with belted tires and construction history I would say it was somewhere between a deep freeze and a waterbed.

A total chick-magnet!
Click to expand...
LMAO! Chick magnet, for real?
 
Well, update isn’t the solution I was hoping. Installed a new factory mopar immobilizer and had the locksmith come program a fresh key to it. Fires right up, no red blinking light on cluster so skim is working, runs for 1:45 minutes and then dies. Only difference with the new immobilizer versus the old is that Fuel pump kicks on with every turn of the ignition and the push to start works every time versus with the old immobilizer once the truck stopped running the fuel pump wouldn’t start and the push to start wouldn’t work. So, brings me to believe its ECU based now. Before I give up and have it towed to my mechanic, anyone else have any thoughts?
 
The cable trick creates a reset that bypasses you waiting for several key on/key off cycles to clear the "crap" out of the RAM on your ecu.

I had a faulty Throttle Position Sensor once that didn't trip any codes but as it was only seeing 70% throttle, the truck was a dog. I couldn't figure it out for a while.

Here's the kicker: Even after replacing the TPS, it was still a dog until I did the cable trick and it immediately realized what planet it was on and was back to it's happy self.

Worth a try in your case.
Think of it as a computer reboot, because that's what it is.
 
rottenronnie said:
The cable trick creates a reset that bypasses you waiting for several key on/key off cycles to clear the "crap" out of the RAM on your ecu.

I had a faulty Throttle Position Sensor once that didn't trip any codes but as it was only seeing 70% throttle, the truck was a dog. I couldn't figure it out for a while.

Here's the kicker: Even after replacing the TPS, it was still a dog until I did the cable trick and it immediately realized what planet it was on and was back to it's happy self.

Worth a try in your case.
Think of it as a computer reboot, because that's what it is.
Click to expand...
I am also taking note, knowledge is power....so why is my truck slow? Don't answer that!!!!
 
THE SUSPENSE!!! Did this get figured out?!? lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Random Media

20130202 103417
chaynick group web
Intake jmb performance
ViperDNA
Back
Top