MOPAR Stainless Headers

AMS3

AMS3

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So as some of you know, I'm looking at Billy Boat headers. What's your thoughts about the MOPAR Headers? I would assume that MOPAR designed them to get the best bang for the buck for performance. Let me know what you all think.
 
The mopar headers require the steering link to come apart (no big deal) and heat-wrap for the link.
Just a heads-up there.
The B&B do not.
 
I had the full MOPAR/Borla set up, I changed to Billy Boat. It all depends on what sound you want. MOPAR was louder and more high pitched. Billy Boat gives a deeper more refined tone. Power gains would be about the same.
 
I had a chance to run mine with oem manifolds and the sound was even deeper compared to the B&B exhaust with B&B headers.
 
My truck arrived to me with Belanger coated headers, that look great, I have no idea on what cost was involved
yet another brand to homework
In NZ anything with factory branding is real expensive and not the best performance product available
 
When it comes to headers on these trucks..... Gains in Headaches are more prevalent than power. If you want the the best of both worlds, have your stock manifolds acid etched to increase interior volume of the "logs" by 15%. Then have them Jet Hot coated for additional heat retention and appearance. These cast iron manifolds flow VERY nice and heat retention to maximize scavenging is also very good. All without fitment issues and the future melting of wiring harnesses. ;)

Acid Etch Exhaust Manifolds:

-Muratic Acid

-Loctite Silicone Gasket Maker

-5 (or one solid) Block off plate(s) for manifold input ports from heads.

Fill manifold from collector end with collector end at highest point and fill with a measured amount of water to determine before volume. Then again after. Convert oz. to cc for total volume.

-Fill with Muratic Acid and let set for two hours. Dump, rinse and Repeat four times total. Approximately 15% more volume can be obtained.

Cheers!
 
I used old fashioned grinding on my oem manifolds which required an industrial-sized handheld grinder and an aggressive bit as they are made of some sort of Kryptonite alloy and are freakin' hard!

The surprising thing (to me) was the amount of core-shift there was from one end of the manifold to the other, considering not that many were produced.

Once that material was removed, a few of them had walls that were a little thin, but still safe and no longer blocked the exhaust port.

Did all that work pay off?
Probably, but just freeing up the restrictions blocking the exhaust ports made me "feel better" :)

Fitting the headers was the expected nightmare and a nylon ratchet strap worked its magic to pull the primaries in the right direction. One hole was off at least 50% (the primary was actually twisted) and had to be repaired with a high-speed grinder and a good bit as SS is also hard!

After the headers went through some hot and cold cycles, they were no longer under any stress and fit just fine.

Ceramic coating IS A MUST and the reduction in underhood heat is incredible.
 
rottenronnie said:
I used old fashioned grinding on my oem manifolds which required an industrial-sized handheld grinder and an aggressive bit as they are made of some sort of Kryptonite alloy and are freakin' hard!

The surprising thing (to me) was the amount of core-shift there was from one end of the manifold to the other, considering not that many were produced.

Once that material was removed, a few of them had walls that were a little thin, but still safe and no longer blocked the exhaust port.

Did all that work pay off?
Probably, but just freeing up the restrictions blocking the exhaust ports made me "feel better" :)

Fitting the headers was the expected nightmare and a nylon ratchet strap worked its magic to pull the primaries in the right direction. One hole was off at least 50% (the primary was actually twisted) and had to be repaired with a high-speed grinder and a good bit as SS is also hard!

After the headers went through some hot and cold cycles, they were no longer under any stress and fit just fine.

Ceramic coating IS A MUST and the reduction in underhood heat is incredible.
Click to expand...
Good grief, that's a lot of work. Since I don't have access to a shop, or tools, I'm just gonna go with the Billy Boat and let my speedshop install. Is there any harnesses I need to be aware of to move away from the headers to keep from melting?
 
oldcolt said:
I had the full MOPAR/Borla set up, I changed to Billy Boat. It all depends on what sound you want. MOPAR was louder and more high pitched. Billy Boat gives a deeper more refined tone. Power gains would be about the same.
Click to expand...
Hmm, I want deeper, not higher. Billy Boat it is.
 
rottenronnie said:
A couple of things: I'd use the Mopar exhaust gaskets AND have the headers ceramic-coated.
Watch for wiring at the rear, passenger side.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. Do you know how much the cost is to have the headers coated, and who would you recommend?
 
I'm in Calgary, Canada and it cost me around $280.00

For you in the United States, it will likely be around $24.95 :)

Make a few calls in your area to see who can get the job done.
Once again, I wouldn't skip this step.
 
rottenronnie said:
I'm in Calgary, Canada and it cost me around $280.00

For you in the United States, it will likely be around $24.95 :)

Make a few calls in your area to see who can get the job done.
Once again, I wouldn't skip this step.
Click to expand...
LOL. So was that for both headers, or only one. I just found a place called Savannah Powder Coat, and plan on calling them. My goal is to have my valve covers powder coated the same red as my aftermarket radiator and heater hoses. upload_2020-7-6_6-38-33.png I think this is Candy Apple Red, or close to it. Then I'll either have the letters coated white, or buy the Stainless Steel Lettering from The Viper Store. upload_2020-7-6_6-41-45.png The headers I'll also have coated white. What ya'll think? Critiquing is welcomed.
 
Careful with the valve covers! they are made of Magnesium and don't sand blast well.... they get full of holes.... I have the billy Boat headers and ran into an issue with the steering bolt hitting one of the tubes. do a dry fit before you get them coated so you can dimple where the bolt hits prior to coating them.... maybe changing the bolt will work as well.
 
OldColt has the chrome valve cover stick-ons and they look great. Much cleaner than the brushed/corroded oem look. However, with a bit of work, that can be maintained to look decent. I know, I've been cleaning mine for 15 years. :)

A company called "Appliance" made white headers back in the early 70's that looked pretty cool. Unfortunately they were spray-bombed (not powder-coated), were made of mild steel (NOT stainless) and showed off the " grimy black-hand" installation markings.
They looked nice for a week or so until the paint burned off and rust spots started showing up on the bare steel. Ceramic coating is WAY tougher.

SLITHERBEAST: Ditto with the steering bolt whacking the #3 primary tube. A wee bit of grinding solved the issue. The twisted flange on #5 required a bolt extender to turn it into place (almost). It was not unexpected but disappointing what with laser-guided measuring systems, precision CNC machining and 3-D printed burgers :eek:
 
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