V-10 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Performance Mods' started by Paladin6059, Jul 24, 2020.

  1. Paladin6059

    Paladin6059 New Member

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    So, I am rebuilding my 2005 Ram SRT-10 RC. I want more HP, so I am getting new heads, a custom 710R cam, new rockers, rollers and lifters, so it's pretty much an entire rebuild. Any suggestions on vendors? What length should the rods be? What about slow bleed lifters versus stock? I am not using any forced induction, so forged pistons and internals wouldn't be necessary. Thoughts?
     
  2. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Pushrods stay the same length with the OEM heads. Unless your are changing to something like Striker heads which use shorter ones.
    I like the OEM lifters for any application.
    The 710R is a pretty big cam for a truck and doesn't produce a wide torque band. I've had customers want cams for the idle sound only; it depends what you want.
     
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  3. oldcolt

    oldcolt Striker Heads and Cam Supporting Member

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    So, I am rebuilding my 2005 Ram SRT-10 RC. I want more HP, so I am getting new heads, a custom 710R cam, new rockers, rollers and lifters, so it's pretty much an entire rebuild. Any suggestions on vendors? What length should the rods be? What about slow bleed lifters versus stock? I am not using any forced induction, so forged pistons and internals wouldn't be necessary. Thoughts?

    Ronnie can spec an awesome cam for you...better than a 710 for our heavy trucks.
     
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  4. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    What are you doing about your cylinder heads?
     
  5. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    It all depends on how far you want to go. Back many years ago I used to do a few engines. Start with a plan of how many HP's and design it for that. Take care of weaknesses and fix up mass production atrocities. Lots of easy gains of power and reliability. No point just adding things willy nilly.
    otherwise you end with a 3500hp theory that really makes 506hp. For some extra hp like around 600 it can be done with external part changes and a tune. Mine for example. Depends where you want to end up and how much you want to spend. HP is totally dependant on Budget
    Do what Ronnie has done and you can have 800ish. He would be really good to talk to about that. A wealth of knowledge and a great help
     
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  6. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Thanks, I appreciate the vote of confidence.

    Yes, PLAN the build; starting with realistic expectations.

    Arguably, the Naturally Aspirated Route is the most challenging to do properly. After all, you are attempting to re-engineer an existing proven package (your stock engine) that already works well on many levels.
     
  7. Paladin6059

    Paladin6059 New Member

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    I was going to change to JTSVP heads. I want the cam for more power not primarily for the sound. Not changing the flywheel or switching to a smaller lower pulley either.
     
  8. Paladin6059

    Paladin6059 New Member

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    So here's what I currently have: 2005 RC with Belanger headers, new coil packs, CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Catch can w/breather, JTSVP short shift kit, tuned ECM for 93 octane. I want to get around 600-650 hp at the wheels, keeping it entirely NA, no turbos or blowers.
     
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  9. GSJake

    GSJake Active Member

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    I would think with a heads\cam package from a reputable shop that number would be attainable..
     
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  10. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Hello:

    A stock Gen III typically makes 425 rear-wheel horsepower in a vehicle with a manual transmission on a Dynojet dyno;
    and less than that through an automatic transmission.

    Even with a manual and less power losses, you'll have to make an additional 200 flywheel to hit the lower end of your target.

    Your camshaft choice CAN provide more "dyno power" as in PEAK horsepower, at the likely expense of lower torque production so be careful when choosing.

    In my opinion a wide torque/power band is much nicer than a peaky engine that briefly hits your power target.

    Head choice is huge and I can't stress that enough. It is where power is actually made (in the combustion chamber). As cylinder head choices are limited particularly with a non-mainstream engine that is now 15 years old, you are at a disadvantage. ONE aftermarket cylinder head was available for the Gen III and that was it.

    So that leaves you with these options:

    • Buying a ported set of Gen IIIs OR
    • You jump in with both feet and go with a Gen IV conversion kit OR
    • Find yourself a set of Strikers

    The least expensive option is to use a set of ported Gen III heads with a good camshaft.

    I don't know of anyone that has used a set of JTVSP heads so I can't comment on power they produced. Regardless of who you choose for porting your Gen IIIs, overall power production will be less than either the Gen IV or Strikers.

    To be clear, I'm talking about POWER production here and not interested in getting into a discussion on big C.F.M. numbers.

    Don't get too hung up on making an additional 20 horsepower per cylinder as you may or may not hit that target, depending on your head/cam choices and budget.

    PS: A smaller pulley WILL free up some inexpensive horsepower without nasty side effects.
     
  11. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    "PS: A smaller pulley WILL free up some inexpensive horsepower without nasty side effects".
    Yep, best $200 I've spent in a while. I noticed an immediate increase in throttle response, and quicker pick up speed.
     
  12. Psycho1122

    Psycho1122 Full Access Member

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    1. The two > statements are CRITICAL! Power UNDER peak with a wide torque curve will move the trucks weight easily. HUGE thrust from 2K - 5K will produce better acceleration. Peaky engines are slow and you have to keep them on the boil. Especially with the tall, wide gearing in the 6 speed manual.

    2. Again, this comment >> Be sure to concentrate on torque curve below 5K RPM and be sure your suspension is set up to utilize ALL the power ;)

    Finally, I agree that a smaller pulley will enhance the overall package from cooling to a freer reving engine. :)
     
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  13. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    The wrong cam choice is also hard on support parts like Cats, O2 sensors, plugs, valve springs, valve guides, driving your favorite Tuner nuts when you've past the limits of your ECU with low vacuum and his tune becomes a band-aid, keeping your oil clean, your nose, eyes, your clothes, your (formerly) nice-smelling girlfriend or wife, and last but not least: Lousy gas mileage.

    So much has changed with cam tech and the narrow LSA cams (big boogity-boogity idles) aren't required to make really good power.

    At first you may convince yourself these things don't matter but after living with it for a while, reality sets in. It really changes an engine that realistically spends 95% of it's miserable life below an optimum operating rpm for the new camshaft.

    I had my 4th (or 5th?) cam ground with the following: 234-I, 236-E @ .050 on a 115 and lift to accommodate the Strikers. It was in increase of 8 and 8 degrees over the previous.but only because I went up a full point to 11:1 which supports the later closing Intake without a penalty. It has a noticeable chop at idle, W-I-D-E torque band and really decent gas mileage. I'm only at 2 grand at legal highway speeds (with stock 4.56s, overdrive and stock tire height, which is barely above idle to a wild(er) cam. Mine seems to like it.

    Could I get more peak power with a bigger cam? I sure could but I sure don't care.

    I'm I suggesting leave everything stock? NO WAY !! :)

    Just do some homework before you pull the trigger and have fun.
     
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  14. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    What he says:)
    The other thing to add to your design mix is make sure you can afford to maintain it.
    No point building something that needs $30k a year to keep operational
     
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  15. viperhauler

    viperhauler Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I've had a few engines done by JTSVP, NA and boosted. One of mine made 540 wheel in a truck, another 565 wheel in a car, another 530 wheel in a car, and another 601 wheel in a truck. They were all very different, and certainly different in cars and trucks. You can reach 600 wheel, but that's about the top end of what you'll see, and I agree, you'll sacrifice some torque to get there.
    Put forged pistons and rods in it while you're there. Silly not to.
     
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  16. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Yes indeed and a bump to 11:1 will get you another 35 horsepower.
     
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  17. Psycho1122

    Psycho1122 Full Access Member

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    AND make a wider, higher torque curve ;)
     
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  18. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Lots of torque for sure (the diesel guys don't like that part). :)
    I had a fair bit of liner recession (0.015) which is about 3 times the norm but maybe the additional weight of the truck with drag radials caused the block to squirm around more than normal.
    I opted for some Program Main caps this time, just in case.
    Also Zero-decked so even with 11:1 it's pump gas all the way!
    Really nice burn pattern which is great to see when you are messing around with piston-top configurations. A bit of a guesstimate on my part as it's not something I can do often enough to monitor. ;)
     
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  19. Mick Stama

    Mick Stama New Member

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    Here's a list of what I know I have for sure, as the engine was built by the 2nd owner. I am the 4th owner and have not been able to track the engine builder down.

    Callies crank
    Callies forged rods
    Diamond pistons
    Unfortunately cam is unknown at this stage. Very lumpy idle.
    Hand Ported gen 3 heads
    Belanger long tube headers, ceramic coated
    Magnaflow 3 inch
    Hi flow cats
    Don't know the exact compression, but is higher than oem specs.

    Car made 545rwhp a couple of weeks ago while getting tuned. We saw numbers just tickling the 600 mark but had knock in the higher rev range and had to pull out early. High compression and a hot engine in summer didn't play well together. Knocked anytime the engine got to 80 degrees Celsius.
    6 degrees of timing had to be retarded to fix it for now and that's how we ended up 545rwhp

    We have some cooling system work to do and water/methanol injection kit to be fitted and it'll be back to the tuners again. This set up seems like it'll be absolutely maxed at around 620rwhp.
     
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