What to expect

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Projectsrt10, Jan 17, 2021.

Car Parts
  1. Projectsrt10

    Projectsrt10 New Member

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    Hello I’m new to the group, I recently bought a 05 qc with ALOT of miles(190k) but the motor is super strong and no leaks, I’m wondering if anyone out there has high miles qc and what are some things to expect or prepare for, thank you all.
     
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  2. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    Well, I have just a few hundred miles over 80K, and here's what I've done so far. Upper control arms, lower ball joints and bushings replaced, front wheel bearings, radiator, U joints (recommend using Spicer), front sway bar end links, added McGauey lowering kit with new front springs. The wheel bearings were so bad, you couldn't rotate the front wheels freely. I replaced the control arms and ball joints due to having a prior truck, a 2005 QC SLT. Those parts went bad around 80K as well. Have it put on a rack and inspect the front end. Also, how is the tranny? I'm having to get mine rebuilt, it slips going into second gear.
     
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  3. Projectsrt10

    Projectsrt10 New Member

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    Not slipping yet but will need some service, I’ll get the front end checked out, the truck was pretty beat up, it was used as a work trk but the guy kept up with the service it’s seems, truck has power and sounds great, thanks for your input
     
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  4. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I bought mine brand new in 2005.
    Power Steering and Oil Cooler lines were made by an Industrial Hose shop as the factory ones eventually leak.
    Transmission cooler line has a check-ball and that line was also replaced (without the check ball)
    Brakes, oil changes, plugs, O2 sensors changed on a regular basis.

    That's about it.
     
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  5. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    We "deal" with metric in Canada so 190,000 MILES equals 305,775 kilometers.
    I have approximately 1/3 of that on my own truck so I can't really comment on "What to expect".
    Engine wise, it's hard to argue with a leakdown test which will prove or disprove cylinder sealing if you are interested in knowing.

    I've had my engine apart so many times that I've basically reset the wear and tear clock to zero, so I have little idea what you can expect; but 300+K is outstanding service as far as I'm concerned.

    Have fun with your rig.

    They are a special vehicle.
     
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  6. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Welcome aboard.
    I have 73k on mine and will be inspecting suspension and steering this year as it weaves a bit under braking and hard cornering. Tries to swap ends. Maybe not enough rear braking?
    I have only had my truck for a year. Seems a previous owner beat on it pretty hard. I am sure the heads have been off, no idea why yet.
    Clutch is a bit doughy and the release bearing gets pushed away from fingers at revs so there is some issues there.
    I have an external coolant leak from rear lower corner of head gasket. So will going in to be fixed soon. We shall see what is going on inside then.
    Goes HARD and does SMILES per gallon. Not everybody's cup of tea but there was 10000 crazy ass bastards and that was good enough for Dodge. So we have to thank them for that.
    Enjoy
     
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  7. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    You're a lucky one. I need to change my power steering lines as well, have to put fluid in the reservoir about every two months. What's the purpose of the check valve in the tranny cooler line?
     
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  8. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    It's a shame the truck was abused like that. Mine was as well. The bed (box) is not original, you can see red paint under the tailgate and forward side of the bed common to the cab. Terrible paint job, and some of the rear cladding is a little loose at the rear bumper. Once all the mechanical stuff is done (almost there), I'm putting the truck in the body shop to get all the door dings, etc fixed, then a new paint job front to rear. All it takes is plenty of dollars, LOL!
     
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  9. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    AM53

    Good Morning:

    The top power steering hose has a swivel inside the metal connector. That swivel is made from a plastic "Teflon-Like" material that eventually falls apart and leaks. I took the leaking hoses into an Industrial Hose Shop and had them make new hoses (good for double the pressure the power steering pump is capable of) using the factory fittings.

    I first tried the braided "Lifetime" hoses but couldn't get those to stop leaking (not during my Lifetime anyway ;)), and didn't like the feel of the steering afterwards. Those hoses were a smaller diameter and couldn't provide the same volume to and from the PS pump so the steering feel changed in a way I didn't like. A quick transient with the wheel back and forth caused a sort of snag (NO THANKS); and yes, the air was all out of the system.

    The check-valve in the tranny cooler line can suffer a similar fate as that check-valve reacts to transmission fluid (nice going RAM guys).

    Anyway the check-valve is supposed to prevent "drain-back" to the convertor which can leave the valve body short on fluid. After the vehicle has sat for a while and is started and the shifter moved from Park to Reverse or Drive, it can take "a while" for things to fill with fluid and the vehicle to actually start moving. The Check-Valve in the cooler line was (and did for the most part) prevent that delay.

    Without any kind of Check-Valve in the cooler line (which I think is a good thing), a small modification is made to the valve body of the 48RE that performs the same function as the check valve.

    So, talk to your transmission shop. IF they are familiar with the 48RE they should know what the modification is and what it does. Just ask them what they do to prevent drain-back and if they look at you like you have a third eye, tell them you are late for an appointment and drive to the next transmission shop. :>O

    As far as a high-stall convertor goes, personally, I prefer an actual performance convertor over a modified (large and heavy) factory unit that is more suited to use in front of a diesel. Uniformly bending fins over on a Turbine and Pump in what amounts to a giant Blender (your Convertor) is easier said than done and the unit will still lack a performance Stator, Thrust Bearing and Overdrive Lockup.

    There are several shift-kits available. They all work about the same (with the 1-2 shift being the harshest under wide open throttle). The idea is to increase line-pressure and delay the time the transmission is in (2) gears at once. This is supposed to provide a smooth shift but in a performance application, you want it to happen fast to delay transmission friction material's wear and tear.

    It would be a good idea to remind them to get the shift-kit for the 48RE (Viper engine) and NOT for the old truck V-10. They are NOT the same kit and it will create problems for you/them.

    There, some Sunday Morning ramblings on a Tuesday.

    Ronnie
     
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  10. beastmode1

    beastmode1 Full Access Member

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    I agree with Ronnie's observation its spot on.
     
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  11. beastmode1

    beastmode1 Full Access Member

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    Welcome to the RBC.
     
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