See!! We get good weather too.
HEADS OFF
- Thread starter Kiwi SRT10
- Start date
Hey Ronnie ya steering wheel is on the wrong side hahaha
It's just the reflection from the nearby fence.
She is lookin' good Ronnie.
Any under hood pics
Thanks;
Nothing special to look at under the hood other than taller valve covers because of the valve cover spacers because of the rocker gear but I'll see what I can dig up for photos.
Nothing special to look at under the hood other than taller valve covers because of the valve cover spacers because of the rocker gear but I'll see what I can dig up for photos.
AMS3
Full Access Member
LOL! That'll do the trick!
AMS3
Full Access Member
Clean engine, you take good care of it. Question: Can you take a photo of the header clearance on the drivers side at the steering knuckle, and one for the passenger side where the harness has to be ziptied away from the header? I remember someone saying a harness has to be moved on the passenger, and the steering knuckle bolt "hits" the header? And another question: What does the outboard cable on the throttle linkage do? It doesn't move when I open the throttle. The top one moves at the same time as the throttle cable, so I know that's the tranny cable. Could the cable possibly be a kick down linkage? The cable routes into the left fenderwell it seems. The reason for the header photos, is so I know what needs to be done when I finally get my Billy BoatsLooks like many others on the outside.
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AMS3
Full Access Member
Your truck is super clean, looks great!
My "real camera" in the house is AWAL, and the pics I just shot with my phone are Gerschtunken, so... your questions answered, in order:
- The BB #3 header pipe will likely hit the bolt on the steering knuckle. The additional length of that bolt can be trimmed (hacksaw) then ground or filed flat without concern. It is soft metal (as many steering components are). Just trim the part that sticks out (easy to spot as the bolt is "too long"). As long as the "sticking out part" is filed flat, it won't hit the tube when the wheel is turned.
- The Pass. side wiring harness can get squished between the #10 header tube and the firewall (not a good situation) so pull the harness away from the header with a few Zip-Ties, rope, chain, fishing line, barbed wire or whatever you prefer. It just has to be nudged out of the way and held there.
- The Outboard cable is for the Cruise Control.
I'd use the o.e.m. header gaskets for best results.
Strongly suggest you get the BBs ceramic coated.
In spite of their claims, I've yet to see the BBs just "bolt up". Ratchet straps are the best way to convince them to.
Mine required even more persuasion but as I didn't have a D6 Cat handy, I had to get creative.
Once they go through a few/several hot and cold cycles they DO relax into position.
AMS3
Full Access Member
As usual Ronnie, you are a wealth of info. Thank you, and yes, I'll be getting the headers coated. Just need to get my daughter situated and the tranny rebuilt first...
Heads are off and loose bolts. No chamber leaks just leaking from rear coolant hole externally.
Apparently no visual signs of anything to worry about and she looks clean. Gaskets were black, peeling some sort of paint.
Heads are being checked over.
Apparently no visual signs of anything to worry about and she looks clean. Gaskets were black, peeling some sort of paint.
Heads are being checked over.
Head bolt torque. Seems to be a wide variety of torque for head bolts. I have seen 65, 90, 105 and 120ftlb.
Any ideas or is it just a stab in the dark.......come in Ronnie
Any ideas or is it just a stab in the dark.......come in Ronnie
That black plastic "stuff" means your head gaskets are the originals. I'm a bit confused as to WHY they were leaking.
The new gaskets are thinner and you will pick up around 0.4 of a point; IOW from the original 10:1 to a bit higher than that.
Using the proper sequence with new head gaskets:
#1 to 30 Ft. Lbs then
#2 to 90 ft. Lbs.
The upper 11mm bolts are torqued to 95 INCH pounds.
The new gaskets are thinner and you will pick up around 0.4 of a point; IOW from the original 10:1 to a bit higher than that.
Using the proper sequence with new head gaskets:
#1 to 30 Ft. Lbs then
#2 to 90 ft. Lbs.
The upper 11mm bolts are torqued to 95 INCH pounds.
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Yeah man
Just getting ready to go into town and see her with the heads off
Thanks Ronnie
The bolts have come loose. I rang them this morning and that was explained they were not very tight and that some were quite loose.
I will head off as it is 1200 hrs and I shall be back this afternoon with more news
The coated o.e.m. head bolts have to go in dry (NO lube at all nor coolant, so blow the holes out with compressed air).
It is strongly recommended they be replaced after 3 uses.
They are designed to stretch with the proper torque BUT have a good look at them with a straightedge to make sure they are still A Okay to use again and the thread diameter hasn't pulled "narrower" which would indicate they were over-torqued and should be classed as "junk".
Again I find it quite odd they came loose.
Personally, I'd replace them Bud as something else could be going on here.
It is strongly recommended they be replaced after 3 uses.
They are designed to stretch with the proper torque BUT have a good look at them with a straightedge to make sure they are still A Okay to use again and the thread diameter hasn't pulled "narrower" which would indicate they were over-torqued and should be classed as "junk".
Again I find it quite odd they came loose.
Personally, I'd replace them Bud as something else could be going on here.
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