A word of caution about plugs

Stupuff

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I bought a set of 10 E3 spark plugs put into my supercharged SRT 10 (i made a mistake, no need to make me feel worse). 2 of the "cages" on the plugs have shattered and caused damage to the valves and the cylinder. I emailed E3 about this and they said, for all intents and purposes, "Your bad, you're SOL buddy". They advertise them as performance plugs but nothing was improved and they lasted 4 days and I have a 2500$ repair bill for my choice.


Not me being a ****head and bad mouthing them, just my experience.

BE CAREFUL!
 
I don't understand, were they to long ?

I have OEM plugs to put in, I have heard horror stories about aftermarket plugs causing damage.
 
Man is look into it futher, surely that'd be considered a faulty part and theyd have to pay
 
I asked ronnie about these plugs for my build. He said no way!
 
I bought a set of 10 E3 spark plugs put into my supercharged SRT 10 (i made a mistake, no need to make me feel worse). 2 of the "cages" on the plugs have shattered and caused damage to the valves and the cylinder. I emailed E3 about this and they said, for all intents and purposes, "Your bad, you're SOL buddy". They advertise them as performance plugs but nothing was improved and they lasted 4 days and I have a 2500$ repair bill for my choice.


Not me being a ****head and bad mouthing them, just my experience.

BE CAREFUL!


Was the heat-range the same as the plugs you normally use?

If the cages shattered like you described, it could have been under detonation. Grab a magnifying glass and look for aluminum beads welded to the porcelain or cracked porcelain on the plugs.
 
Was the heat-range the same as the plugs you normally use?

If the cages shattered like you described, it could have been under detonation. Grab a magnifying glass and look for aluminum beads welded to the porcelain or cracked porcelain on the plugs.

what plugs do you recommend?
 
I had a car a few years back with a ProCharger and I used Bosch Step 2 colder plugs for my setup. IIRC, you can estimate the step colder plugs you need based on the range of hp increase that your FI setup gains. I've been out of the FI game for 4 years now, so I'm rusty, so don't take what I said as scripture.
 
I'm gonna use Champs, my family has used them in our race cars for decades so i feel they would be perfect for a forced induction application. but the E3's I used where the ones recommended for a viper. i don't think they were too long, they never made any indication of being struck.
 
Oem Cheapo Champs for the win! Id never use some hyped up TV commercial plug cause you are right bro, they prolly have generic applications and heat ranges. Years of application give Champ, Autolite, Delco, Bosch, and NGK the experience needed to design a perfect plug per applicTion. FI or NA.
It does sounds as if the heat range were way wrong and were detonating. All plugs should look similar though as far as lOoking like a diamond mine:(
Maybe they were overtorqued and cages were inferior metal for a plug? I'd research the crap outta it bro. Post pics of each plug labeled by cylinder if ya can.
 
what plugs do you recommend?

Champion or NGK; and change them earlier than recommended.

If you are using the factory heads, index the plugs (it all helps); like this:

Put a mark on your socket with a felt pen or whatever and line the electrode up so it points to that mark on your socket.

As the threads in the plugs all start in a different spot off of the base they will all point in a different direction once they are torqued down. So, you can keep trying each plug until the electrode points right where you want it to (which is somewhere between 10 and 2 o'clock towards the Intake) when they are snugged up. Don't use different thickness washers to make this happen.

And don't get too excited if it ends up at 3 or 9 o'clock...close enough. You don't want the electrode pointing down towards the exhaust manifolds, that's all...
That's a "dead" area of the chamber and is less than optimum for starting a flame-front when it's masked by the electrode.


Ronnie
 
Last edited:
Champion or NGK; and change them earlier than recommended.

If you are using the factory heads, index the plugs (it all helps); like this:

Put a mark on your socket with a felt pen or whatever and line the electrode up so it points to that mark on your socket.

As the threads in the plugs all start in a different spot off of the base they will all point in a different direction once they are torqued down. So, you can keep trying each plug until the electrode points right where you want it to (which is somewhere between 10 and 2 o'clock towards the Intake) when they are snugged up. Don't use different thickness washers to make this happen.

And don't get too excited if it ends up at 3 or 9 o'clock...close enough. You don't want the electrode pointing down towards the exhaust manifolds, that's all...
That's a "dead" area of the chamber and is less than optimum for starting a flame-front when it's masked by the electrode.


Ronnie


Great info like always Ron, :rock:
I'm sure glad I took my E3's out!!! I ran them for about 1500 miles aprox with a ROE.
 
That's sucks I just got the E3s going to switch back to the champions agin


and E3 f#$%ed me on the warranty, said because it's a modified engine that they are not responsable. Even though I called their hotline when I was first buying the plugs and the dude on the phone said since I have Meth injection the heat range "should" be good. But now I'm S.O.L. and have to pay for a 7000+ $ repair bill out of pocket.

From my experience, Stay away. Chris at Quality Control was very helpful and seemed to try hard to help but to no end I was happy with.
 
damn and i was just thinkin bout e3 for my 8.0 haha thanks for the heads up, sorry for the heart ache tho man..
 

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