Age old question, which clutch?

Discussion in 'Performance Mods' started by Jumpingjoe628, Dec 20, 2019.

  1. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    So, as with many of the subjects I try to research on here I come across threads that are many years old and have been abandoned without any update or resolution. Spending the last couple days searching what clutch would best suit me I have given up and started this thread. Since I’m pretty confident with my mechanical abilities I’ll be tackling this myself in the driveway over the course of a weekend. I’m going to make sure I have all the parts I want to change before starting so it can be driven ASAP. It’s not really a daily driver since I have a work vehicle and the wife has her own ride. The 10 spends most of its time under a cover on the side of the garage out of the way from any visiting vehicles as not to clog up the driveway. With that being said, performance wise the previous owner already had the rear cats removed and hi-flo magnaflow front cats leading into dual magnaflow mufflers. I installed a K&N drop in filter as well when I purchased it a little over a year ago.

    Anticipated future mods include: Full 3” exhaust with headers port matched, underdrive pulley, better coil wires, upgraded cam, port matched heads to intake, thinner head gaskets, 1.7 rockers, upgraded springs and pushrods, slow bleed lifters and a nice catch can setup. I’m not trying to break any records but want the best bang for my buck. For traction helpers I’ve got new energy susp leaf spring bushings, shortened sway bar links, new adjustable kicker shock, new poly snubber bumpers on the slapper bar, leaf spring clamps and an axle shim kit.

    Was looking to replace / upgrade the clutch with new flywheel and Viper hydraulics. Also gonna replace the rear main seal on the engine while I’m under there. Spec 3+ with aluminum flywheel looks good but then I saw a combo for a Centerforce and Viper hydraulics too. I def want an aluminum flywheel but the Fidanza is just so ridiculously overpriced. I remember seeing the price jump from last year from $680 to over $1000 now! So how is the Spec version? The Centerforce has a nice feature with the ball bearings once diaphragm spring pivot point and added centrifugal weights to assist with clamping force. I don’t wanna hear about how someone’s brand blew up or grenaded and that they would stay away from this brand or that brand. I haven’t seen enough evidence from these two brands that would scare me out from buying either.

    It’s probably coming to best price / combo. Throw out bearing included and alignment tool included, stuff like that helps. My intended use with be aggressive street driving and timed drag runs without worry that it will prematurely start slipping. I’ll break it in properly as well with a min of 500 miles of city driving before thrashing around. This clutch has been slipping since day one and I’ve already bled the master 3 times without any improvement. It has a high pedal and a soft launch (won’t break the tires loose). Pulls ok in 2nd and 3rd but slips real bad in 4th and above. Mileage is just under 30k and the original owner said it would need a clutch.

    So what does everyone recommend as a whole? Clutch, bearing, alignment tool, alum flywheel and Viper hydraulics. Ok go!!!
     
  2. CaptnCrash

    CaptnCrash Full Access Member

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    This is a TRUCK! Forget the aluminum flywheel, stay with steel, or you will be sorry. Everyone I know that put an aluminum flywheel in took it right back out.
     
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  3. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    Out of the 15 viable responses of what flywheel people liked, my conclusion was that about 50% liked it and 50% hated it. The ones that liked it were majority race users and the others were more regular type daily drivers. I understand it’s a heavy vehicle and more throttle input would be needed on a lighter flywheel but my driving style is more geared towards “race”. I have thought about the pros and cons of this and unless otherwise convinced I still think I’d like the aluminum better. Trainman’s results were positive on the track but vioerhauler liked the steel for more momentum on take off especially while towing. Others simply stated they hated or loved one or the other. Given the results of what I could gather from weeks of reading here I’m favoring the aluminum flywheel.

    I’m not towing anything besides an occasional Dirtbike on a hitch carrier and I really prefer to have the clutch grab early and hard in all situations. I also won’t be in day to day traffic where it will become a nuisance clutching it in stop and go traffic. From a performance perspective, aluminum is the way to go. I also plan on lightening the truck up some as well. There’s an easy 250-300 lbs to lose with removing the tonneau cover, tailgate and spare tire. Hmmm, I wonder if there’s an SRT-10 logo’d Tailgate net out there somewhere?
     
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  4. Pamooney3

    Pamooney3 New Member

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    I went with a stage 2 clutch and a spec industries steel flywheel
     
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  5. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    How you doing, Joe. I bought a QC 2005 in May. I'm working in Savannah, but my home of residence is North Charleston. Where do you reside in Charleston? Would like to meet up and share information that could help both of us. As far as I know, I'm the only SRT 10 withing a 100 mile radius here in Savannah.
     
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  6. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    Summerville area here.
    There’s a red RC around here I’ve seen a few times and a VCA edition in Mt Pleasant also.
     
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  7. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    My Ex lives in the Summerville area. Next time I head to Charleston to see my daughter, I'll let you know, and maybe we can meet up.
     
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  8. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    So as the time nears I’ve decided that I’m going with a Spec stage 3+ and aluminum flywheel along with upgraded hydraulics. I don’t think I have any major issues with my current hydraulics but the first time I bled them I had the notorious white lithium grease looking ooze come out of it. No difference noticed and I’ve bled it a few months after also with no change in feel. The slipping is very apparent in taller gears but starting to notice it in the lower gears. Gonna check out and possibly change out the rear main seal while I have it apart too.
     
  9. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    Welp, before I actually pulled the trigger I found a great deal on a center force clutch package with Viper hydraulics from EBay. Brand new never installed that the guy got from one of our vendors here. Awesome!! Spec aluminum flywheel coming too. Yay!
     
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  10. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Active Member Supporting Member

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    So. How did it go?
     
  11. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    Haven’t gotten around to it yet and it’s killing me, lol. Just received the JTSVP shifter the other day so now I have everything to complete the entire project. Even though it’s not a daily driver, I wanted to minimize down time in the driveway. Currently she rests inside a fully enclosed 10x20 canopy on the side of the garage in the grass (which mostly died). So I need to get it timed with good weather and free time (away from my responsibility of watching my daughter) to start the project on a Friday and make sure it’s done by Sunday. The wife says she hates the truck and foresees it consuming too much time away from family time. Which formerly I rode and raced motocross and frequented the tracks around here on the weekends till our daughter was born. Haven’t ridden the bike in 2 years now as it sits in the corner of the garage collecting cobwebs. And every 3rd week I’m on call for work that may take me away at any moment.

    I predict that I’ll start doing the clutch swap one of these weekends soon and will create a thread complete with pictures and a nice write up on how it went. That’s usually how I roll with any project so that others can learn and the veterans can chime in on what I did wrong so I can also learn.
     
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  12. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    Don't forget to buy correct splined dowel pin to align the clutch pack. Nothing worse having everything torn apart, only to realize you have the wrong one. Speaking from personal experience.
     
  13. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    There was one in the Centerforce clutch kit as advertised. 26 spline if I’m not mistaken, so it should work.
     
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  14. Trainman

    Trainman Active Member Supporting Member

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    Good that you got the aluminum flywheel....CaptnCrash is 100% wrong. Years ago when my truck was pure stock I switched the factory flywheel to an aluminum with a centerforce clutch, truck was more responsive and with headers and tuning I could be driving in 1st gear and just punch it and break loose, truck felt lighter, then after a few years the centerforce was worn out and I called McLeod for a twin disc set up. I asked for an aluminum flywheel and they said go with a steel flywheel because of the heavy truck. I figured they were the experts and installed the twin disc and steel flywheel, I lost .2 (tenths) in the 1/4 mile and it would not break the street tires loose just by hitting the throttle in 1st gear around town. I phoned McLeod and said I was unhappy and wanted an aluminum flywheel with the twin disc , they were great and sent a whole new clutch at no charge and I paid for the aluminum flywheel. Instantly got my .2 back and could snap the tires loose with just the throttle. I also have a CTSV Cadillac with a 6-speed and it weighs 4200 lbs(about 200 more than my truck in race weight ) and it has an aluminum flywheel as well. My experience with the aluminum flywheel in the SRT-10 was before I made the drastic weight savings I have now.

     
    Last edited: May 17, 2020
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  15. CaptnCrash

    CaptnCrash Full Access Member

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    I don't think so, but then again like other things everyone has an opinion.

    The steel flywheel thing is about DRIVEABILITY not 1/4 mile times. Like all the people I know our trucks are actually used for trucks. I'll tell you what, why not hook that aluminum flywheel thing to a nice bass boat and dual axle trailer, then go driving around and try putting the boat in and out of the lake. You will quickly find out why aluminum flywheels on the street aren't so good.

    This is just one use case. Try starting on a grade, try starting on a grade with a bed full of plywood, mulch, bags full of rocks, etc. You get the idea. This is why your clutch provider said use a steel flywheel for a street vehicle.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2020
  16. Trainman

    Trainman Active Member Supporting Member

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    You are probably right about normal pickups, but these are Viper powered sport trucks, with a lot of them used at the 1/4 mile. Just my personal experience the truck was much more responsive with the aluminum flywheel. Even before I started taking weight out of the truck, it felt more responsive around town. I had instant acceleration just pushing the gas pedal in 1st and 2nd, and like I said when we put the steel flywheel with the McLeod twin disc in the truck would bog slightly when I hit the throttle in 1st gear, without hitting the clutch. Also no matter what I tried I lost .2 tenths in the 1/4 mile, which was the main reason I bought the truck, for the 6-speed and some 1/4 mile fun, I have over 60,000 miles on the truck with maybe 80 miles in the 1/4 mile since I bought it new in 2004 and my driveability has been great with the aluminum flywheel. My preference I guess. Enjoy
     
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  17. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    My truck will only see a load a couple times a year, Dirtbike on a hitch carrier and my whole area here in SC is flat. No starting on hills. I understand the characteristics of a heavier flywheel as I’ve messed with them tons on dirtbikes and know of the effects. Have always taken them off the bikes even when people said you need them for the type of bike or to gain traction on slippery conditions. I’ve relied on my riding skills to overcome any shortcomings that lacking any flywheel weight could provide, I’ll be happy to do the same with driving this truck.

    It usually only gets driven for fun and small errands around town. With under 30k miles on the clock I don’t plan on it even taking long trips as I’d like to preserve it for as much sporty driving as I can.
     
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  18. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    And for reference on current condition of my clutch, it can’t do a burnout at the moment. It slips letting it out at just above idle and the pedal is high before full engagement. But....if I get rolling at say 15-20mph and stand on it, it’ll slip a little for a second and then grab good enough to squeal the tires at the top of first and sometimes chirp 2nd. Cruising in 4th at like 45 and I stand on it, it’ll slip real bad. I have to be careful in 5th and 6th while cruising the interstate too.
    My theory is that it has a glazing on the surface and most likely from improper break in when new. Not yet certain if it has been replaced before but the PO said it needs a clutch. Hydraulics are consistent even after bleeding and no evidence of any leaks anywhere. No leaks on engine anywhere as well. Smooth engagement overall too.
    Got a whole new system that I’ll be installing in the coming weeks weather permitting (driveway job). Centerforce clutch, new bearings, Spec aluminum flywheel, Viper hydraulics and JTSVP shifter. Also picked up a new rear main seal and rubber gasket for the cover just as insurance. After that new tires also waiting in the pile of parts, Belanger longtubes, 3” magnaflow cat back, dual wideband with new A-pillar pod, beehive HD springs, new valve guide seals, HD pushrods, slow bleed lifters, the thinner head gasket, JTSVP throttle body, new plugs, new JTSVP wires, new Demon coils, and button it up with a new tune on then MVPI-2 after careful analysis.
    But the clutch comes first.
     
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  19. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Active Member Supporting Member

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    Awesome yes need clutch first. No point in having power you can't use.
     
  20. Jumpingjoe628

    Jumpingjoe628 Full Access Member

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    Well, add brakes to the list now. Out for a drive and saw smoke coming from the pass side front. Got a wiff and new right away it was the brakes. Luckily was around the corner on the way home. I didn’t get a chance to use the temp gauge on it but the rim was way too hot to touch. I could feel the heat radiating from a foot away even. Heard some tinking as the cooling process commenced so now I don’t trust the rotor.
    Going to upgrade to slotted / dimpled zinc coated rotors, green pads, new lines, and a full caliper rebuild kit. The icing on the cake is the brake / clutch pedal bushings. Just doing fronts for now though, but gonna flush out the old fluid for good measure.

    I was wondering why she wasn’t rolling a bit at stop lights when I let off the brakes....