Amp bypass for stereo

it’s sounding better and better to me ! Once I find the short in my system , which I’m thinking is in the connection from the body thru the drivers door to the speaker .. at least that is what I have been looking to do after finding those ares are problematic on Dodge rams for wires breaking ‍♂️ . Hoping it’s not caused by the factory AMP !
Not sure I would bother with cameras , but another SD card would work fine . Your system appears to have a lot more capability than the factory one .
The install is more than clean enough to look factory !
I know over the years that systems people were installing had no way to connect the steering wheel controls and had to usually modify or by a modified bezel . Exactly what wire did you finally determine was the proper one for the steering wheel connection ?

Yes ,the price is up there but appears to me to be the best upgrade and least modification to make .. Do you have any of those gift cards you want to gift to a charity

 

Welll , the recirculating door broke a long time ago ,, the door itself hahaha hmm 2 birds with one stone comes to mind if the app is the problem . I’m still going to check the door wires aa when I get the chance and energy to see if their is a break .. the drivers door speaker was doing the on and off and crackling prior to getting the drain on my battery .. I tracked which fuse to pull and have no radio at the moment . Everything else appear to be operating fine . I’ll have to decide whether or not it really matters using the steering wheel controls but would when or if the time comes .

 

Perfect ,, not sure if my hands a small enough hahaha ..Thanks, looks like exact looking part I need. I have the old one removed already , for years now laying around here somewhere . The solenoid works and is still installed on the truck if I remember correctly . Definitely need to fix that .. looking into getting it now at the local parts store ..

 

Appears Rock auto has the same Dorman part at about half the price compared to advance auto . I like rock auto !

 

I’ve bought lots for vehicles from them … I’m trying to figure out what other things I need , I have 2 trucks , the 10 and a beater Dakota work truck ….
I need the hood struts for the 10 , seems I waited to long none on rock auto .. looking around for the closest to stock I can find but it appears everyone shows different sizes ( lengths ) hahaha ,, IM SO CONFUSED ! hahaha back to figuring out other little tid bits I need

 

Ordered the recirculation door and new hood struts ,, soon no more broom stick to prop up the hood .

When the heck did rock auto add shipping to every part in an order ,, damn , never seen that before ! $20 for shipping ,, crazy ! But still ended up cheaper than going to the local auto parts stores ..

When I get started , I’ll have my work cut out for me , brakes , painting or buffing the calipers , possibly rebuilding them , lower ball joints , hood struts and recirculation door , finding the short . Then then then who knows hahahaha ! At least I have all the parts to do those things already ,,, NOW WHERE ARE MY TOOLS .

 

Git er done!!

 

As soon as I get the recirc. Door and hood struts they will go on .. then to the brakes and she’ll cleaning . Ball joints aren’t bad yet so won’t be doing those until or if they get play in them . The sway bar end links that I thought was the ball joints fixed the loud ass clunking problem . Will be checking the brake line clamp and see if that could be the reason the brakes have locked up over and over again .. then possibly install rebuild kit .. calipers I’ll try the buffing out first and then paint if needed . Then onto the short search . I hate finding shorts ..

 

I guess I never noticed and I’m not going back years to check hahaha .. as long as they beat the competition I’ll deal with it .

 

Well crap ,, I got the blend door and it looks perfect … I ordered the hood lift struts and only received 1 … appears I only ordered 1 hahaha duh brain fart … the only number I found to contact rock auto is for their corporate headquarters and they don’t do customer service there ! I’m trying to see if they will send me the 2nd one with free shipping or send me some sort of discount code . I remember RockAuto use to post on here and gave discounts or something , are they still a vendor or whatever they were ?

At least the one I got holds the hood open for now and no more broom stick hahaha .


Went and got the 2nd strut from advance auto .. cost a bit more but still less than paying for shipping again and waiting .. save about $4 ..

 

Then there is the news problem ugh ! The dash panel that vents the defroster and speakers has turned brittle and when I took out my windshield sun protector found the grills at 3 location broken out and into pieces ..cheap ass plastic .. found the part at advance auto and some others online .. some were just plastic covers and not replacements … the replacement part is Dorman and at advance auto $213. .. I’m not paying that for some cheapo plastic replacement that most likely will end up doing the same thing . Just like the cheapo factory hood scoop inserts people want several hundred dollars for . I finally fount the scoop inserts for a hell of a lot cheaper and we’re exactly the same as factory .. crazy ass prices for junk plastic isnt my thing !

 

So putting the door in through the blower motor opening is the simple part .. can the AMP be removed or loosened easily to move it a little out of the way ? What kind of tool did you use to remove the actuator ? Screw driver ( stubby or offset type ) or a quarter inch drive ratchet with screw driver bit maybe with and extension and or swivel head ?

 

Ok thanks , sounds like a pain either way .. the old eyes aren’t the best so using the feel method should be fine .. at least I should have all the tools I need . Of course shredding the hands could be a major problem and I may have to skip taking the stupid blood thinner . Sure as hell wouldn’t want to be spewing my blood all over the truck or wiring and cause another short hahahaha !