Any secrets when replacing spark plug wires?

2005ViperRam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
209
Reaction score
398
Are there any secrets to replace spark plug wires?
I’m just trying to see if anyone has little “I wish I would have known this before” secrets to make the job easier.
 
Are there any secrets to replace spark plug wires?
I’m just trying to see if anyone has little “I wish I would have known this before” secrets to make the job easier.
A stick of dynamite or someone with very small hands hahaha

That’s been my dilemma since I found out the coil packs are under the intake manifold. I have asked before about relocation of the coil packs to an accessible location has been done by anyone or if a mounting kit and wires can be made to mount them elsewhere to make it a simple replacement . Nobody seems to be bothered by removing the intake manifold to replace coils and wires .. I personally think that replacing those items in a hour instead of having to make a day to replace them is one of the stupidest designs ever made .. A should be Simple job turned into a major operation job with possibilities of turning into a real Cluster PHUC !
 
Search spark plug wires in the search window and lots of misc. info will show up and there's lots of different input in the various threads and posts :cool:
 
Last edited:
Are there any secrets to replace spark plug wires?
I’m just trying to see if anyone has little “I wish I would have known this before” secrets to make the job easier.

It isn't hard using 1/4 drive sockets and extensions. If you have an electric 3/8 ratchet (using an Apapter down to 1/4), that will speed up the Intake Bolts fine-thread removal and installation. The bolts on #9 can be a bit of a challenge so maybe start there FIRST. Some find a box-end wrench easier on that one, however there is almost no swing-room due to the Intake port casting. It can require up to 2 beer to complete!
Most of the other bolts can be accessed through the top holes in the Intake, and are easy to get at.
The Intake Gasket is reusable.
Leave all your Injectors, fuel rails and throttle body in place.
Disconnecting electrical is easy.
There is a small hose that needs to be pulled straight down to remove it and that's behind the throttle body on the Intake. Don't forget to hook it up again!
You will also need to disconnect the fuel line from the rear driver's side. That requires a special tool. If you don't have one, do yourself a favor and buy a decent one. Removing the fuel line is much faster and less risky than removing the cheap bolts used on the fuel rails that like to snap!
It isn't a hard job, at all.
You may want to replace your (2) coil packs while you are under there.
Use some heavy grease in the end of the socket to hold the bolts in place when reinstalling them. Or some electrical tape around the socket and bolt top.
There is often an interesting collection of bug carcasses when you pull the Intake.
It's a simple thing, but pay attention to the throttle cable position. If you don't hook the cable up right, you will wonder why you've dropped a few hundred horsepower by installing new plug wires.
 
Last edited:
And there you have it!
 
A stick of dynamite or someone with very small hands hahaha

That’s been my dilemma since I found out the coil packs are under the intake manifold. I have asked before about relocation of the coil packs to an accessible location has been done by anyone or if a mounting kit and wires can be made to mount them elsewhere to make it a simple replacement . Nobody seems to be bothered by removing the intake manifold to replace coils and wires .. I personally think that replacing those items in a hour instead of having to make a day to replace them is one of the stupidest designs ever made .. A should be Simple job turned into a major operation job with possibilities of turning into a real Cluster PHUC !
But the factory arrangement looks clean and orderly, I think...
Those mini-van coil-packs need to hide somewhere!
 
Last edited:
But the factory arrangement looks clean and orderly, I think...
Those mini-van coil-packs need to hide somewhere!
I agree it’s a clean look . It just that the process of change simple things was designed to be a pain in the keister ! Looking thru the Media section at some motors and I don’t see why nobody has attempted to simplify changing the location of the coil packs and make them and the wires more accessible to change/ replace them . It appears that making a bracket and mounting the coils possibly on the firewall or over the backside of the intake .
Just look at some of the pics with other modes like NOX systems installed and picture in your mind that coils and wires in those locations using similar plug wiring like factory . IMO is that manufacturers do this kind of crap to continue to eliminate the home mechanic , all about money which has been going on for decades .
I would rather spend more time driving than taking hours on simple maintenance.. Just imagine being forced to hang yourself from a hoist upside down and having to add extensions and swivels to both your arms just to change a spark plug or oil filter and turning the engine and the vehicle upside down .. IMG_0866.jpegIMG_0862.jpegIMG_0861.jpegIMG_0865.jpegIMG_0864.jpegIMG_0863.jpegIMG_0860.jpeg
IMG_0859.jpeg
 
It isn't hard using 1/4 drive sockets and extensions. If you have an electric 3/8 ratchet (using an Apapter down to 1/4), that will speed up the Intake Bolts fine-thread removal and installation. The bolts on #9 can be a bit of a challenge so maybe start there FIRST. Some find a box-end wrench easier on that one, however there is almost no swing-room due to the Intake port casting. It can require up to 2 beer to complete!
Most of the other bolts can be accessed through the top holes in the Intake, and are easy to get at.
The Intake Gasket is reusable.
Leave all your Injectors, fuel rails and throttle body in place.
Disconnecting electrical is easy.
There is a small hose that needs to be pulled straight down to remove it and that's behind the throttle body on the Intake. Don't forget to hook it up again!
You will also need to disconnect the fuel line from the rear driver's side. That requires a special tool. If you don't have one, do yourself a favor and buy a decent one. Removing the fuel line is much faster and less risky than removing the cheap bolts used on the fuel rails that like to snap!
It isn't a hard job, at all.
You may want to replace your (2) coil packs while you are under there.
Use some heavy grease in the end of the socket to hold the bolts in place when reinstalling them. Or some electrical tape around the socket and bolt top.
There is often an interesting collection of bug carcasses when you pull the Intake.
It's a simple thing, but pay attention to the throttle cable position. If you don't hook the cable up right, you will wonder why you've dropped a few hundred horsepower by installing new plug wires.
Very good procedure and detail as usual Ronnie .. the thing is doing all that is showing what I’m saying hahaha .. a pain in the butt , should be a simple less time consuming process and you don’t have to worry about going wrong .. NUMBER 9 number 9 number 9 as the Beatles song says.. breaking off fuel rail bolts , buying special tools dropping and losing bolts blood knuckles , forgetting that under manifold vacuum hose and oops didn’t get the linkage back on correct hahaha ! CHIT HAPPENS !
 
It looks like a big plate of spaghetti under there to me!! :eek::p
 
I've had my Intake off so many times, I don't even think about it.
Now the new(er) vehicles are a nightmare.
A quick couple of "for examples"...

The Intake Manifold has to be pulled to change plugs on a V6 Ford Escape.

It is an 8 hour job to change one exhaust manifold gasket on an F150 Ecoboost and pulling the Cab is recommended.

And, no it's not just Fords...

Our conventional pushrod 8.3L V-10s are actually simple to work on, in comparison with this newer stuff.

Add in the ultra-short wiring harnesses, one-time fasteners and things you can't even see to work on and, well, that's the way it is now.

Upside (sometimes). As the newer 5.7 Hemis don't have plug wires, there are none to change. And it takes one hour to change all 16 plugs in those from tools out to tools away . Easy peasy.
 
Last edited:
Without a doubt manufactures are making it more and more of a pain to work on anything ..
Check out replacing the Crank position sensor on a 2002 dodge Dakota for instance cost me 205$ to have it replaced I couldn’t even see the damn thing or feel following the wires to it ( 2 bolts and wire connector hahaha .. even the oil filter is in tighter than a witches __ ! The distributor is also stuffed in the back of the engine set in low and tight to the firewall big hands make it a pain to change the wires or even the cap and rotor and even small hands would be a pain ... not even sure about trying to replace the distributor haha ! ( 3.9 litre engine )
at least with the Hemi ( haven’t looked at the new day Hemi’s but we know in the old days it was simple and didn’t hardly have to bend over to change the plugs and wires or most everything for a tune up ( those were the days , well we expected that from stinking fords on some plugs hahaha !
IMO , anything that would make a job get done easier and faster is a heck of a lot better for everyone . I started doing that to my last 340 duster and made it so much easier even back then to work on it . But I did extensive work from the engine compartment completely redid the dash in Stainless steel and. All gauges replaced with liquid Autometer gauges , toggle switch console panel to the rear wheel tubs , eliminated the power steering system and on and on. I eliminated everything to make it easier to work on and eliminate the pain in the butt things.

GIVE ME THE OLD DAYS , I’m now to damn old to get off the floor without something to grab and pull myself up damn it HAHAHA !
 
Last edited:
It looks like a big plate of spaghetti under there to me!! :eek::p
Definitely those are not clean looking and IMO could have been made cleaner hahah
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top