Can't Decide!!!! Auto or Manual Transmission!??!?!?!?

Discussion in 'New Members Section' started by Captain King, Dec 15, 2020.

  1. Captain King

    Captain King New Member

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    I had been wanting to purchase a 04 RC for about a year, been browsing car dealer sites, then Covid hit and I put my plan on hold. Until yesterday where I was offered a 04 RC in black and a 06 QC in Silver.

    I love both colors but I have zero knowledge in how the Auto transmission is in the 06 QC. Can someone fill me in? I've owned a 04 Viper for 10 years before regrettably selling it and I loved the manual, hence why I wanted a manual 04 RC. Now I'm pondering the idea how the automatic drives? Can I get a little help here?

    Any help will be appreciated. I do have two small kids who are in car seats so the QC would be perfect, but I absolutely love a manual transmission!!! and only plan to make this my weekend and golf course driver! (Which is 3-4 times every week in evenings)

    Thank you in advance folks.
     
  2. Captain King

    Captain King New Member

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    Anyone??? Just need to know how the automatic drives compared to the manual....
     
  3. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    I can't speak for a stick, but my automatic works great. I recently had to get the pressure sensor and solenoid replaced due to hesitation between 1st & 2nd gear (79K miles on truck), but other than that, no issues. My suggestion is to see if the potential seller will let you test drive the vehicle, whether stick or auto. Personally, I would love to have a stick in my QC, just for the thrill of it. Oh yeah, mine's an 05
     
  4. Sigma-Wildcat

    Sigma-Wildcat Active Member Supporting Member

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    I have had both, but I suggest that you test drive both also.
     
  5. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Personally, I all in on the automatics with (2) modifications:

    Get yourself a high-stall locking converter in the 26-2800 range as that makes them WAY more fun to drive and feels like they shed a thousand pounds off the vehicle weight.

    If it's a QC, have your tuner extend the 3-4 shift (into Overdrive) to 125 miles per hour, (that is the max) but again, WAY more fun.
    The factory setting makes it short-shift from 3 to 4 at wide open throttle and the trucks fall on their faces.
     
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  6. Captain King

    Captain King New Member

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    Thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated! Will update when I decide, going to test drive both.
     
  7. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    With near stock power levels the automatics should survive with regular maintenance. A deep pan is a good investment (at any power level) to reduce the chance of the Governors picking up debris missed by the (rather lame) filter system.
    That is what kills them.
    IF you plan on adding more power, the auto will need a rebuild to beef it up. Any of the better diesel shops or one of the Vendors left on here should be able to help you out. Once they are built right, they will take considerable power and are reliable. They aren't perfect but I haven't found an automatic (even today) that is.
     
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  8. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    Dumb question: If it doesn't shift until 125 mph, that means I would be tooling around town in 3rd gear? I know manual trannys, but my knowledge of autos is limited.
     
  9. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I was referring to a 125 mph shift-point at wide open throttle.

    It works exactly the same otherwise.
     
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  10. 6speedquadcab

    6speedquadcab NorCal SF Bay Area Supporting Member

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    The T56 on the QC is good fun and has plenty of power to haul anything you need. Having the ability to have your cake and eat it is nice to say the least.

    B481BC5D-DE2B-412E-8C48-554BFAD66CF0.jpeg
     
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  11. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I was 125mph in 4th the other day. Wicked sound too at close to 6000rpm. Chucked it into 5th and 150mph just like that.
    However on my wish list is a 4.56 rear....so Santa if you are listening....
     
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  12. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I like a manual for stomping and an auto for cruisin'
     
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  13. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Well, Merry Christmas to all.
    There is nothing quite like cruising along at 50km/hr. (30 mph) then nailing the throttle on a QC and having the auto kickdown into first gear and come to life at wide open throttle.
     
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  14. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    The 4.56s are going to limit you top speed. All you can do now are some engine mods so you can wind it out to 6500 or higher. :)
     
  15. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    I thought the rear came with the 4.56? If not, what is the stock ratio?
     
  16. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    4.10
     
  17. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    4.56 with the QC
     
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  18. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    I have the QC, so I guess I was right. Now I have a question. I had the regulator and solenoid replaced in October. Noticed it shifted better between 1st and 2nd. NOW, when it goes to shift into second, it's "slipping". If I pull out normal, it slips a little, then engages. If I get on it, my rpms go way up before engaging. Same if I want to pass a vehicle and it downshifts, the rpms go up to almost 6000 before engaging. I took it back to the place that replaced the parts in October, they put the diagnostic to it, no codes. The shop owner took the truck for a spin, he noticed it, but said not to worry. I'm worried. Now, when shifting to second, I let off the gas, and it engages. Then I can get on it as hard as I want. You have any thoughts on this? Clutch slip? Oh, and Happy New Year!!!
     
  19. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    AMS3 and Kiwi SRT10 like this.
  20. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    It doesn't sound like you have an issue with your kickdown cable; which is an easy fix.

    You will NOT cure any operational issues with the 48RE by adjusting the bands nor changing the fluid and filter.
    99 times out of 100 the tiny little screens on the governors get plugged with band and/or clutch material.
    When this happens, the "clamping force" is greatly reduced during shifting and slipping creates more debris and everything goes downhill very fast from there.

    If you are planning on more power (say 75+ horsepower), talk to a reliable diesel shop and have the transmission built with parts that won't fail on you again. FYI- The "brains of the outfit", (the valve body) is the identical unit used in both the SRT-10 and diesels.
    What you are after is more clamping force AND parts that will last reliably.
    Change the cast iron drum to a steel or aluminum one (I prefer steel). Diesels might not be doing this but our engines can/do rev considerably higher and the original cast iron drums have failed in spectacular fashion before.
    Use a billet input shaft
    Use a clutch-pack that uses thinner AND MORE clutches than stock. The RACE clutches are designed to grab under full throttle and wouldn't be a good choice for extended street use.
    Buy a good torque convertor.
    Use the General Motors solenoids as they are more robust and larger than the Mopar units and resist the effect of debris in the fluid.
    Use the recommended shift-kit or a custom built unit (if the guy knows his stuff).
    I use and recommend DEX VI tranny fluid (primarily for GMs) as it does not have the +4 slipping additive which allows for transmission slippage.
    Look for something with a warranty.

    Good Luck and Happy New Year!

    Ronnie