Coolant loss

[FlaglerSRT]

Does anyone have any common locations for coolant loss on the 04? Mine constantly loses coolant despite no visible signs of coolant loss. Truck does not overheat, no sweet smell of burning coolant or white smoke on idle or load. I do have leaking PS lines so not sure if the PS cooler is water or air cooled. No were carpet indicating heater core leak and no puddles under the truck. Already done radiator pressure test and it leaks but can’t rule out the crappy auto zone tester as a poor seal. It’s been doing this for a while like years so I doubt I’m burning it or cracked head gasket. Thanks

 

[Wifey]

Does anyone have any common locations for coolant loss on the 04? Mine constantly loses coolant despite no visible signs of coolant loss. Truck does not overheat, no sweet smell of burning coolant or white smoke on idle or load. I do have leaking PS lines so not sure if the PS cooler is water or air cooled. No were carpet indicating heater core leak and no puddles under the truck. Already done radiator pressure test and it leaks but can’t rule out the crappy auto zone tester as a poor seal. It’s been doing this for a while like years so I doubt I’m burning it or cracked head gasket. Thanks

How much leakage? incase that helps figure it out

Maybe the water pump?

 

[rottenronnie]

Mine was leaking where the rubber overflow line is connected to the main radiator fill.
It was a bear to discover ...

 

[FlaglerSRT]

Ok cool I’ll look at that then! The rubber on it is a little torn but didn’t look like it was leaking. I’ll probably order a new one and see if that fixes it thank you!

 

[rottenronnie]

I just used a plastic zip-tie to tighten it on the rad. If however, the rubber isn't good, that may not help.

 

[FlaglerSRT]

I’ll give it a shot. It’s leaking a pretty decent amount to where I have to keep it topped up or gets too hot. Luckily it’s never overheated. Are the oil and PS air or water cooled?

 

[rottenronnie]

PS is Air
Oil is coolant/air exchange.



In the unlikely event you have a head gasket issue, you can often see bubbles in the rad when the engine is running; and/or the porcelain on a plug or 2 will be orange or green depending on the coolant is being used.

 

[FlaglerSRT]

Thanks Ronnie I appreciate the info. I don’t have any air bubbles in coolant and no milk shake in the oil or water draining from oil pan. Played with it today and looks like the cap is leaking under certain conditions as well as seepage from the upper radiator hose. So going to start with those and I added dye to the system to check for other leaks as well. I assume head gaskets aren’t a common issue on these? I’ve owned the truck for over 10 years and put about 30k on it. It’s at 60k right now.

 

[rottenronnie]

No, the Cometic-style gaskets are durable. The big issue comes up when dissimilar metals are in close contact with one another. For example, an iron block with aluminum heads: This creates cavitation and ultimately pitting which takes out sealing surfaces. Fortunately our engines are aluminum and aluminum. Not to say antifreeze in our engines last forever...
People don't seem to care much about antifreeze changes anymore. In years gone by, it got dark and dingy as it wore out. But today, it stays bright orange or green. This often fools people into thinking its like new. The rust inhibitors however, take a major shit-kicking (particularly with dissimilar metals) and are sacrificial. Freeze protection is still fine but corrosion protection is often long gone.
(The Long story).

 

[Wifey]

No, the Cometic-style gaskets are durable. The big issue comes up when dissimilar metals are in close contact with one another. For example, an iron block with aluminum heads: This creates cavitation and ultimately pitting which takes out sealing surfaces. Fortunately our engines are aluminum and aluminum. Not to say antifreeze in our engines last forever...
People don't seem to care much about antifreeze changes anymore. In years gone by, it got dark and dingy as it wore out. But today, it stays bright orange or green. This often fools people into thinking its like new. The rust inhibitors however, take a major shit-kicking (particularly with dissimilar metals) and are sacrificial. Freeze protection is still fine but corrosion protection is often long gone.
(The Long story).

I always love the long story

 

[Wifey]

You're very eloquent

 

[Wifey]

You're very eloquent

I hope that was the right word! A compliment meant either way!

 

[FlaglerSRT]

Thanks Ronnie for the detailed answer definitely makes sense and I agree with you. People are less inclined to do the not so fancy work that dosent yelled any gains. I’ve done the coolant with hoses and 180 t-stat years ago so it probably wouldn’t hurt to do it again. Not because of mileage but time.

 

[rottenronnie]

Thanks Ronnie for the detailed answer definitely makes sense and I agree with you. People are less inclined to do the not so fancy work that dosent yelled any gains. I’ve done the coolant with hoses and 180 t-stat years ago so it probably wouldn’t hurt to do it again. Not because of mileage but time.

You will find the leak sooner or later. The big one is when coolant and oil are mixing, as you know. It sounds like you don't have that issue, and that's the best news!

 

[rottenronnie]

You're very eloquent

Glad the info is clear.
(Thanks)

 

[Kiwi SRT10]

My previous engine leaked coolant at end of left bank. There is a coolant duct there. The problem was the head bolts at the rear had come loose. Was not leaking compression, just coolant out to atmosphere. Never any coolant on floor. Only leaked a little when out and about. Spotted when on hoist as it dribbled off starter motor. I also had Ronnies problem with hose off radiator to catch bottle and yes cable tie fixed that too.

 

[FlaglerSRT]

Thanks for the info kiwi I’ll take a look there as well!