Dual Electric Fan Upgrade - Replace the hydraulic leak.

[Hellcat Hauler]

The hydraulic fan unit started to leak at the end of last fall. I originally thought it was the line that runs from the fan to the rack by fluid position. I bought new hoses, replaced them and still was getting a little fluid on the floor when I let the truck run up to temp. I finally waited under the truck while running till it started to leak. It was hard to tell because the fan was throwing it back like a mist. I thought it was the post that the sensor mounts on, so I took that apart and replaced the o-ring. Same thing when the it warmed up. I talked to Tony at JTSV and he told me to look for one off a 2005ish Jeep Grand Cherokee V8. I found one that looked really nice on ebay for $240 and bought it. It showed up super dirty with some damage, so I returned it and gave up on it.

I checked out JMB and JTSV at what they had, not sure if JTSV still does them, but JMB was $959.00 with the steering hose and the overflow bottle.

SRT-10 Ram Electric Fan Assembly - JMB Performance & Powdercoat​

jmbperformance.com

If you just want a bolt in kit and to follow instructions, stop now and just buy the kit from JMB.
I only did this because the fan assembly, radiator, and lower brackets were free, if I paid for them it would have been cheaper to go with JMB.

So I talked to a buddy of mine that is into gen 3 diesels and he owed me a few favors, so he hooked me up pretty good. He had a new Flexlite fan and a new NAPA radiator setup for a 03-09 diesel Ram that a customer left there a couple years ago, part # 104641. It goes for about $598.76 on amazon right now.



The Napa radiator, part # NR2711C looks to be about $260.72 online right now.

I tried to mount the fan assembly on the stock radiator first. It was too big. Next, I pulled the stock radiator and tried to put the Napa diesel radiator in. The lower radiator mounts are different for a diesel, so I went down to his shop and took a set off a truck in his junk yard, they go for $150 on ebay and are discontinued from Mopar. Again, these were free.



I got these bolted in, and installed the radiator. The top mounting bolts will use different threaded holes now (outer ones), all Rams must use the same radiator support and have multiple threaded holes. I did trim some of the plastic bracket fins on the radiator so it would slide in between the frame rails easier.



Once mounted, I installed the fan assembly to verify clearance. I did need to trim the side brackets of the fan 1/8" on each side.





Next step was to mount the cooler lines to the bottom of the fan shroud.
Then mount the cooler to the front of the rad, I used the factory bolt spot on drivers side, and made an extension for the passenger side.



THIS NEXT STEP HAD TO BE CHANGED AFTER COMPLETION
This is due to the original way causing pressure in the system, making the fluid cavitate, and creating a noisy whine sound from the pump. Tony at JTSV supplied this information to me.

Originally I did this;
I plugged the 1/2" hose from the pump to the fan on the fan end, I used a 3/4" PEX end fitting and a crimp clamp, and zip tied it to the fan assembly. I had a whine and very sensitive steering wheel. (The JMB kit still does it this way with the plug and clamp included. You will read about this later.)

To complete the job correctly I did this;
This 1/2"ID hose will be entirely removed off of the power steering pump reservoir and taken off truck. The small 3/8" hose from the PS cooler that goes to the small nipple on the PS reservoir, will then be adapted to the large nipple on the PS reservoir. The small nipple will then be closed off with a nipple cap. (This stopped my whine, but I still had a sensitive wheel. (The JMB pressure reducing kit used later in the steps will resolve this.)



I used this 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for the PS cooler to PS pump reservoir large nipple.

 

[Hellcat Hauler]

*THIS NEXT STEP HAD TO BE CHANGED AFTER COMPLETION *

Last thing really to do underneath is the power steering line from the pump top to the rack.
I had the upgraded 6AN JTSV line that originally went from the pump to the fan, but it was too long to use here.

Originally I did this;
I made my own pressure line from an evil energy 6AN PTFE kit that I got on amazon. $55.99
The 45 fitting on the top, straight fitting on the rack end, stainless braid. I reused one of the JTSV fittings on the top of the pump, and bought the one for the rack on amazon. I think this would have been sufficient in size.

To complete the job correctly I did this;
I ended up purchasing the $95 JMB 8AN hose kit to get the PS pressure reducing kit for my pump. $113.00 total with shipping.



The kit consists of;

• 37.5" stainless 8AN hose, 45 on one end, and a straight fitting on the other.
• 16mmx1.5 to 8AN aluminum fitting for rack end of hose.
• 18mmx1.5 to 8AN aluminum fitting for PS pump end of hose.
• 16mm aluminum sealing washer
• 18mm aluminum sealing washer
• hose plug and clamp for 1/2" PS pump reservoir to fan hose. I removed this hose, so this is not used by me.
• PS pressure reducing kit. BORGESON #899001 - $16.88 at Summit Racing. This includes a tool to hold in vise, a seal, 5 spacer shims, and instructions.
• Instructions from JMB.

At this point, just install the 16mm fitting and aluminum washer into the rack, you can just thread the straight end of the JMB PS hose on snugly, do not tighten with a wrench yet.

These pictures show the 8AN JMB line and routing.





I used a P clamp to attach the line to the rad shroud on a bracket bolt.

So, now the truck is back on the ground.
The rad overflow bottle does not fit in place anymore. The JMB hidden bottle is $79, but I went with a 1 gallon fuel cell that used 8AN fittings for $80. I cut the passenger battery tray and mounted it hanging through it. I did this so I could open it and add coolant to the bottle like a factory bottle. I did not understand how the JMB jug would work without a vent or opening to fill it.









I ended up using a 180 fitting on the drivers side top nipple of the tank with an overflow hose ran down behind the front tire, a cap plug on the passenger top nipple of the tank, and a swivel 90 on the bottom with a hose that runs to the rad neck, All 8AN with barb push-on hose ends, used 3/8" black silicone hose for the rad to tank hose and the overflow dump hose.

 

[Hellcat Hauler]

3/8" silicone hose, 10ft, $22 on amazon.



I replaced the radiator and heater hoses while apart, $271.59 on ebay from HPS.
I did black, they offer red and blue as well.



Time to wire the fan.
Basic connections, 12 gauge RED positive and BLACK negative to battery with a breaker mounted on the drivers battery tray, under the included little red cap in picture.



A single GREEN ground wire from the controller to a dash mounted switch, this will turn the fan ON at any time when it is clicked. I bought the switch on amazon for $9.00
So, the wire is a ground from the fan controller, to the switch, then a wire from the switch to chassis ground. It completes the ground when switched on. The light on the switch does not light up, I did not find it necessary to run a positive wire to it, especially since it goes off with the key anyways. I installed it next to the column, see picture below.





Next a RED positive wire from the controller to the fuse panel under the hood. I used fuse spot #37 "spare", it turns on and off with the key.

Now the small GREEN positive wire is to run to the AC Clutch positive circuit. Should be able to pick it up off the ac clutch relay, relay #64, pin 87 on the relay. But for some reason, when connected it runs the fan all the time. I still need to figure this one out. Right now I have it disconnected. I will edit this when I figure it out.

*THIS NEXT STEP HAD TO BE CHANGED AFTER COMPLETION *

Originally I did this;
Next the included rad fin sensor is just two wires to the controller, you stab it through the fins.
This sensor was not very accurate in my opinion. I did leave this installed but the wires disconnected, just as a backup....



To complete the job correctly I did this;
I changed it to the flexalite temp sensor #32050 in the thermostat housing. $60 on Amazon. I removed the factory 1/4" npt plug and the sensor threaded right into the 1/4" npt. I used teflon tape and also liquid teflon on top of the tape since the threads may have still had a little coolant in them. It was hard to reach in there.



This is the factory 1/4" npt plug. The next two pics after this show the temp sensor installed.







You should be able to turn key to ON position and click the dash switch, fans should turn on.

 

[Hellcat Hauler]

Next, I attached the large included bracket to hang the AC lines from with some P clamps.





Next, I had to modify the Volant intake to clear the overflow nipple and hose since the rad is wider. I just used a heat gun and a long 1/2" drive ratchet to mold/indent it.





Next, you will need to install the PS pressure reducing kit into the pump.
If you do not do this, your pressure will be too high in the system. Mine was whinning and the steering felt super sensitive while driving. This can be done on the truck.
Remove the top fitting on the PS pump that the pressure line attaches to.
This fitting has an o-ring on it, a new one is in the kit.
I had to use a shop vac with a piece of 3/8" hose taped on the end to suck the valve out.
Put the valve into the tool, tighten in a vise. Remove the 7/16" head bolt. Inside the valve is a spring with a small BB on top. I cleaned everything because there was loctite or something on the bolt threads. I installed 2 of the supplied 5 shims. They are all the same size shim. I will update if I add or remove shims. Reinstall back in the PS pump.
Just an update, 2 shims worked perfect for me.







Next, install the 18mm to 8AN aluminum fitting and washer into the PS pump.

Next attach your 8AN PS line to the pump and don't forget to go back under and tighten the other end to the rack.

Fill up the PS pump reservoir. I used ATF+4 fluid per spec.

At this point, when the front tires are still up in the air, get in the truck, do not start, turn the steering wheel back and forth 10 times. This is the correct way to bleed the PS system before starting. Check level of fluid and top off. Starting can damage pump with air pockets.

Next, fill your radiator with 50/50 mopar part# 68048953AC coolant.
Fill the new overflow bottle up half way.

Finally, adjust the little screw head in the hole on the controller between mid and highest points of controller range.



Start truck and let idle until thermostat opens. Shut off and let it cool down. The fan may come on or not, depending where your set at.

Clockwise raises the temp when the fans actuate, counter-clockwise lowers activation temp if I remember correctly. Keep in mind, if standing in front of truck, this will be backwards.

Refill the radiator, start truck again, and let idle till it reaches 190 degrees. If the fans came on before that, turn the screw clock wise to raise activation temperature. If they did not turn on yet, spin the adjustment screw counter clockwise until they turn on.
Fine tune as necessary.

I loomed all the wires as I ran them and everything looks clean.

Overall, looks factory for the most part, powder coating the shroud black would make it look basically factory, not a big deal to me though.

 

[Hellcat Hauler]

Finished product looks great.

 

[Hellcat Hauler]

Only remaining issues that are still open;

-Green wire running to AC clutch positive (+)
I am going to hook it back up to the relay pin 87 and see if it works correctly when the truck is running, rather than key on like before.

Hope this post helps someone! Good luck

 

[Hellcat Hauler]

I saved this spot for me to add updates or more information.