Engine Oil?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Evans SRT10, May 26, 2012.

Car Parts
  1. Evans SRT10

    Evans SRT10 New Member

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    What is the best oil weight to use in our trucks. I dont know of the top of my head what weight was listed in the manual. I run 10w-40 Royal Purple. Just wondering what others run, if I should be using a lighter or heavier weight. I live in Upstate NY and only drive in the summer month, so not real hot weather. 90 degrees only a couple times a year.
     
  2. raymondwebb

    raymondwebb Full Access Member

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    Mobil 1 0w-40
     
  3. JeffBoyette

    JeffBoyette Full Access Member

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    Running Mobil15/50
     
  4. SANCHOBA

    SANCHOBA TEXAS A&M DAD Supporting Member

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    Same here..Texas heat.
     
  5. mjd91

    mjd91 Full Access Member

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    I see so many different weight of oil used. I'm in Texas and when I get a truck it will be my daily driver. It will most likely be on 06 but possibly an 05. What is the best to use? I've heard 0w-40 and now 15w-50...
     
  6. Yetti808

    Yetti808 Full Access Member

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    0-40 is good. If you're truck has 60 to 70k mi and you live in the south like me 50 wt will be good for summer not winter. It's too thick and won't travel the engine well under a cold start. My motor has 12kmiles and I run 30wt. And royal purple is the brand of choice. Or To save a buck it two castrol super bike formula is really really awsome oil. But can't go wrong with royal purple I've seen a hands on test that couldn't be manipulated that has me sold!
     
  7. 05srt10carson

    05srt10carson Full Access Member

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    Amsoil racing with 5 / 40 mix
     
  8. JeffBoyette

    JeffBoyette Full Access Member

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    Ive responded to a couple of your post, and i dont want it to seem like im attacking you, i just want to make sure you are properly informed.

    The higher the number the thicker the oil, that is correct. The lower the number the less wear protection and "thinner" the oil. There are polymers in motor oil that cause it to "thicken" up when hot, unlike vegetable shortening or cooking grease. There are also Pour Point Depressant additives (VI) that keep it thin when cold.

    We not only have a considerably close tolerance engine, but like you said, it is also long, and the oil channels are small and Loooooong. The thin when cold oil allows it to quickly get to engine parts when starting to keep it from running dry. So where your wrong is a 0w15 and a 0w40 is verified the same viscosity when cold. The 40 weight is thicker and more wear protection than the 15 when hot. Others and myself run a 15w50 as it is a slightly higher performing oil, with more friction modifying additives (VI) The only drawback is you must allow more time for your engine to warm up after starting. Do not rev it until it settles rpm, and do not drive off until the oil temp gauge moves. Unless you have rebuilt your engine with bearing and piston ring tolerances looser than stock and have different lifters you should NOT be using a straight 30 weight oil. 30 is VERY different than 0 or 15 when cold!

    We also have what is called a Fast Bleed Hydraulic Lifter. If is a compressible lifter that absorbs some of the cam lift and duration at low rpm, improving idle quality, low rpm tq, and emissions. It does this by filling with oil, and by way of a small orifice hole, squirts oil out of it and shrinks in size, effectively shrinking the percieved lobe of the cam. This hole diameter was designed by the engineers with the consideration of the oil viscosity recommended for the engine. A thicker oil will not evacuate the lifter as quickly and increase the valve lift, causing the engine to idle and perform differently at idle and low rpm. My 15w50 weight has a considerable change in idle quality as compared to the 0 weight. I can tell this as i am running headers with cutouts.

    Finally you should NEVER run Castrol Superbike oil OR ANY OTHER MOTORCYCLE OIL! The 5w40 is similar to our oil, but it has certain wear additives that are damaging to your catalytic converter and O2 sensors. Motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil (put in place for fuel economy in cars) and as a result will cause dramatically accelerated wear, Because motorcycles have wet clutches. Motorcycle engine oils shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than regular engine oil. Likewise you never put Car oil in Motorycles. You will ruin the clutch.

    If you insist on using oil that is not listed on your oil cap, run Rotella or Motul. Primarily used in diesel engines that have LONG oil change intervals, they have a ton of detergents to keep it clean, extra friction modifiers and more shear resistance. Dont get me started on Royal Purple. Lets just say it is NOT what it used to be.
     
  9. VPRRAM

    VPRRAM Full Access Member

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  10. JRSVIPR

    JRSVIPR New Member Supporting Member

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  11. Yetti808

    Yetti808 Full Access Member

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    Very informative for sure. Thanks and I wouldn't think I was being attacked at all I like info. But... 50wt pours out the bottle thicker than 30wt. 50wt is used for "loose" engines. That's why I say when you get a lot of miles heavy oil won't hurt but when it's nice and new or "tight" don't go far from what the engineers recommend. As for as the super bike formula goes. I dont care what it has or don't have... It's bad a** stuff. It's keeps motors together I've built at 16k rpm while running on methanol in the dirt for 5 years now. Everyone else can't make one season with two engines. No cam,or wrist pin wear like I've gotten with ams oil. I just try not to get too tech with some guys that want to ask what a good oil is? Just because there may be more truth to my statement... it's not false.
    Also to add how I try to keep stuff a little simple when I say 50wt poured thicker... I mean that in a general auto store I have yet to see 0w-50 it's 20w50. And that is too thick in start up and takes too long to get it's "flow" going. Only have I seen 0w50 in special order application and the average Joe don't care enough to do that. Not saying you can't get it anywhere just not normally in a normal store... That's what forums are for to share info and discuss the stuff we all like. I just modify my answere to the person asking. No sence and over engineering a response.
    Myself and everyone else do appreciat the info.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2012
  12. JeffBoyette

    JeffBoyette Full Access Member

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    50 weight oil is not necessarily used by loose engines, however it is used by high performance engines needing the extra wear protection. States it on the bottle. Our engine calls for 0w40, the 40 is very close to 50 at 212 degrees. 15w50 is made by Mobil and can be found at any general auto store right beside the 0w40 Mobil 1 recommended for your engine.

    Superbike oil IS great stuff, I explained why. But to ignore whats in it and the reason those things are in it, and the effect of using that oil for an engine that it is not intended, is foolish. It does not belong in our engines, and should not be suggested as an alternative to Mobil 1, for the reasons i stated in the previous post. I have owned a superbike, a Suzuki Hayabusa 1300 and have rebuilt it to a 1441. I too have seen first hand the effects of superbike oil on engines and wet clutches.

    10w30 pours thicker than 0w40, so im having a hard time understanding what your saying about why you run a straight 30 weight or a 10w30. Both 30 weight and 10w30 are thicker than 0w40 because the first number is the viscosity cold and the second number is the viscosity hot. Using a 50 weight provides more wear protection when hot but your 30 provides less. Counter productive. I explained that 15w50 can be used instead of 0w40 only if you allow time for your engine to come up to temp before driving off. The fundamental misunderstand that you presented is why i provided a long, descriptive but simplified explaination instead of just copy and pasting a webpage found on google. Forgive me if the intended simplicity was still too complicated and considered over engineered by some.

    Our brethren here are enthusiast, and are educated. If I intend to provide information to answer an inquiry or to pose a counter argument to a statement that i see is incorrect, i try to do so in as complete and accurate way as possible. Mis-information on forums snowball, and often get regurgitated by newbs as fact. When this misinformation can cause harm to engines or owners, you should speak up. No offense bother, i have been taken offensively by others that construed my comments as being a ****. This is not what i want.
     
  13. Yetti808

    Yetti808 Full Access Member

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    Your exactly right... We have the same personality to inform on a precise level. Im learning to modify that a little. Like I said you in no way make me feel like I'm being attacked because I understand what your saying and why. Not that I'm misinformed or dont understand "how it works" but mist importantly I know what works. Being only 25yo I made it to the top 40 in the country as a tuner and engine and suspension builder and working for myself for some time and dealing with costumers Ive developed my own may to explain what works without saying why.... Why... Is confusing to people.
    As for the oil you keep saying you have to wait for a good warm up.... Well most of these trucks on here are DD with the driver being the average guy. Average guys DON'T warm up. In my race stuff I run strait 0w-0. It goes in like water and when drained hot (I drain all oil hot) it comes out like water. Like when you commented on my post about the 92 octane... I didn't say that was the reason for the increase in mpg. I said valero 92. The key was in valero... It could have been more fresh it could have been a number of things but to determine why would be a never-ending discussion. So I keep it simple and that makes the simple guy happy with there purchase of product.
     
  14. Jfireboy1

    Jfireboy1 Active Member Supporting Member

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    Everyone has their own personal preference due to mileage, climate, and performance mods. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w50 because of heat down here.
     
  15. Yetti808

    Yetti808 Full Access Member

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    Exactly... you can have 10 different opinions and none be actually wrong.
    Your engine compartment in beautiful by the way.
     
  16. INFAMOU$

    INFAMOU$ Full Access Member

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    So I would be safe to assume 15w50 would be ideal in my truck here in Dubai... Now that summer is around the corner we are 100-120 degrees daily. My truck has 30k with a Paxton.
     
  17. JeffBoyette

    JeffBoyette Full Access Member

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    Yup 15w50
     
  18. JeffBoyette

    JeffBoyette Full Access Member

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    Opinions are not wrong, what one does with that opinion is. If the opinion is to put 30 weight, motorcycle oil, or 0w0, whatever the fuk that is, in a factory built viper, that is just as wrong as putting 75w90..... My last comment on the subject I give up.
     
  19. BADBLACKSRT10

    BADBLACKSRT10 Full Access Member

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    The manuf suggests Mobil 1 0W 40
    That is what I use.
     
  20. BADBLACKSRT10

    BADBLACKSRT10 Full Access Member

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    The manuf suggests Mobil 1 0W 40
    That is what I use.