Engine problems

[Speed Racer]

Hello guys,
I noticed a little chatter in my engine about a week ago with some tapping like a valve or something being burnt. The OBD said cyl 7 not firing (uh oh)! I took my beloved into my mechanic. He pulled the plug and it had no gap on it. He scoped the cylinder and there is about a 1 inch piece of my piston missing like it's been chipped off and the top of the piston is pitted. The wall is also scored.
After talking and spending an hour on the phone with several people I find my options limited. No one here wants to touch a viper motor. Even my guy.
So, he stated he could put a plug in it and told me to sell the truck (half jokingly), he then said he could put a new piston in it and that is not much better a prognoses, and then he said he would pull the motor and replace it but I needed to find a place to overhaul it that actually knew Viper motors (I respect this as he was telling me he couldnt do the job I needed). We have several calls out. I told him I had access to several experts and I would seek your advice on who to get to overhaul itmand parts.
Now, I posted awhile back and told Stinker I'd be reworking my motor in March after I got my tax refund back. This problem (just like my tranny) occured 3 months too soon.
So, right now I am kind of on a budget, need to overhaul my baby, and want to replace the OEM parts with some that would bulletproof it to say 800hp. I am making about 600rwt with the Roe. If I could bullet proof the motor (and of course later the rearend) I could squeeze more hp from the Roe.
My question is what can I do for say around 3-6k and what parts would be recommended and is there someone you all trust to do the job. (I am thinking of letting my guy pull and replace the motor and mailing it to the rebuilder like I did my tranny)

Thanks in advance guys,
You always come through for me.
Hiya FatJack, Eddie, Stink, Kenny, Prof, Dave, Justin, Jim, and everyone! Have a cool Yule guys! :santaclaus:

 

[yellowfever#154]

Exact same thing that happened to mine. I have talked to a few people and I think Stinkers engines are the most economical. If you have the abilities pull the engine yourself, send it to a machinist to have it bored to repair the grooves, install billet mains, get some forged pistons and rods and put it back together yourself. The more you do the more you save. Labor is a killer nowadays.

 

[SilvrSRT10]

Wow Perry, sorry to hear that. Tony (Stinker) has the knowledge and resources. He won't steer you wrong. Good luck with the rebuild and I hope you and your family have a Happy Holiday Season. Maybe Santa will bring you parts.

 

[FATJACK]

Damn Perry, Sorry to hear about this. Call Stinker ASAP. He will not steer you wrong. Forge that bitch then put you about a 200 shot on top of the Roe and HOLD ON.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

hey guys, sorry for the delay, I seem to have gotten the crude here in all this weather changes.

but for some reason my email on the puter is screwed up , I can recieve but can send?

but one things guys, the machine work alone is around 3-3500 depending on the damage,a nd these pistons coming apart usually does some damge to the cylinders.
but I can do some different pistons and stuff I am working on now, and might possibly be able to do things on the cheap,

but if ya'll can hold off till I get home, should be home saturday, and hipefully I can knock out this crud I seem to have gotten. aahh, dang this weather!

but let me do some work on it and I'll get back with ya bo

right now I am gonna chug this honey and southern comfort, take a good shot of nyquil and see if I cant knock this stuff out

 

[Speed Racer]

will do

will do Stink....

Perry

hey guys, sorry for the delay, I seem to have gotten the crude here in all this weather changes.

but for some reason my email on the puter is screwed up , I can recieve but can send?

but one things guys, the machine work alone is around 3-3500 depending on the damage,a nd these pistons coming apart usually does some damge to the cylinders.
but I can do some different pistons and stuff I am working on now, and might possibly be able to do things on the cheap,

but if ya'll can hold off till I get home, should be home saturday, and hipefully I can knock out this crud I seem to have gotten. aahh, dang this weather!

but let me do some work on it and I'll get back with ya bo

right now I am gonna chug this honey and southern comfort, take a good shot of nyquil and see if I cant knock this stuff out

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

will do Stink....

Perry

hey bo, let me work on it bud, I think I can do a build for a real decent price and still be reliable, top notch,
I just got to figure n some bearings and which pistons to use, shouldnt be a problem tho

and go tto get wiht mark on some $ on machining and see what we can do there

I'll make sure, your taken care of bud, dang my freakin smileys aint even working?

 

[rottenronnie]

Hello guys,
I noticed a little chatter in my engine about a week ago with some tapping like a valve or something being burnt. The OBD said cyl 7 not firing (uh oh)! I took my beloved into my mechanic. He pulled the plug and it had no gap on it. He scoped the cylinder and there is about a 1 inch piece of my piston missing like it's been chipped off and the top of the piston is pitted. The wall is also scored.
After talking and spending an hour on the phone with several people I find my options limited. No one here wants to touch a viper motor. Even my guy.
So, he stated he could put a plug in it and told me to sell the truck (half jokingly), he then said he could put a new piston in it and that is not much better a prognoses, and then he said he would pull the motor and replace it but I needed to find a place to overhaul it that actually knew Viper motors (I respect this as he was telling me he couldnt do the job I needed). We have several calls out. I told him I had access to several experts and I would seek your advice on who to get to overhaul itmand parts.
Now, I posted awhile back and told Stinker I'd be reworking my motor in March after I got my tax refund back. This problem (just like my tranny) occured 3 months too soon.
So, right now I am kind of on a budget, need to overhaul my baby, and want to replace the OEM parts with some that would bulletproof it to say 800hp. I am making about 600rwt with the Roe. If I could bullet proof the motor (and of course later the rearend) I could squeeze more hp from the Roe.
My question is what can I do for say around 3-6k and what parts would be recommended and is there someone you all trust to do the job. (I am thinking of letting my guy pull and replace the motor and mailing it to the rebuilder like I did my tranny)

Thanks in advance guys,
You always come through for me.
Hiya FatJack, Eddie, Stink, Kenny, Prof, Dave, Justin, Jim, and everyone! Have a cool Yule guys! :santaclaus:

Twin-screws ("Roe type", for example) build boost really fast.
Detonation cracks ring lands. If you're lucky, like you were, they won't actually leave the crown and then jam the piston in the bore (kicking a rod). Sounds like you caught it in time.
While you are at it, during your build, choose a cam that kills some low(er) r.p.m. cylinder pressure to reduce the chance of detonation with your heavy truck until it has a chance to gain some momentum (m.p.h.) and get through the dangerous (ping/detonation) area (talk to Sean). A proper cam (with non o.e.m. type lifters) and forged pistons will help it live longer.

Rotten

 

[moparracing]

Twin-screws ("Roe type", for example) build boost really fast.
Detonation cracks ring lands. If you're lucky, like you were, they won't actually leave the crown and then jam the piston in the bore (kicking a rod). Sounds like you caught it in time.
While you are at it, during your build, choose a cam that kills some low(er) r.p.m. cylinder pressure to reduce the chance of detonation with your heavy truck until it has a chance to gain some momentum (m.p.h.) and get through the dangerous (ping/detonation) area (talk to Sean). A proper cam (with non o.e.m. type lifters) and forged pistons will help it live "longer".

Rotten

"Detonation" ??
isn't that a tuning issue ?:dontknow:

another stock block, SC engine bites the dust.......

seems to me that a well tuned, NA built (cam & heads), forged, engine may last the longest.......
4.88's may also help, yet undetermined how it affects track results though.

 

[Roz]

Damn Perry! Hate to hear about your troubles bud.

Sounds like Stinker is going to be your best bet. . .

 

[Speed Racer]

thanks Stink

Thanks Stink,
I'm depending on it Dang these are some expensive toys....

Perry

hey bo, let me work on it bud, I think I can do a build for a real decent price and still be reliable, top notch,
I just got to figure n some bearings and which pistons to use, shouldnt be a problem tho

and go tto get wiht mark on some $ on machining and see what we can do there

I'll make sure, your taken care of bud, dang my freakin smileys aint even working?

 

[NBT]

Sorry to hear of your troubles Perry. Looks like a forged motor will be on the Christmas list.
On a positive note, at least there is no window in the block.
Hang in there, and have a blessed Holiday despite the issue.

 

[Riff62]

Sorry to hear about this..It sucks, but is the nature of the beast I guess..you know the old saying...if you want to dance, you have to pay the band..

 

[rottenronnie]

"Detonation" ??
isn't that a tuning issue ?:dontknow:

another stock block, SC engine bites the dust.......

Yes it is a tuning issue (of sorts) with detonation being aggravated by a supercharger that builds cylinder pressure too fast in a 5600 pound vehicle. But with so many failures, it looks like it is VERY difficult to tune when the twin-screw is used in the trucks. It doesn't seem to be nearly as big an issue over on the Viper CAR forums. I know a few guys here with the cars that are still working fine and a few with the trucks that aren't working any longer....

I just call it like I see it. There are local failures around here and some of these guys aren't on this forum.

In fairness, if someone decides to tow a boat with a bunch of passengers in their supercharged QC with low octane fuel up a big hill in 90 degree heat at full throttle with the A/C on, they might be asking for a problem. I'm not saying THAT is what happened with the most recent failure but it is something the tuner(s) have to consider. If a vehicle is riding the knock-sensors all the way down the track, the engine isn't going to perform nor is it going to live long (forged or not).

The ring lands in a forged piston still take a pounding under detonation but instead of cracking and/or actually breaking a chunk of piston out, the forged unit will eventually (depending on the severity of the detonation), squeeze the lands so the rings can't move and the engine will, at the very least, get into a blow-by situation that won't get any better on it's own. Burning oil vapor has a low detonation threshold...and that just compounds the problem...

The tuners can only work with what they have. It does not seem to be a strict failure on the part of the tuners but rather the combination they have to work with.

A more aggressive cam profile would help reduce early cylinder pressure buildup until the vehicle had some speed up. Would that solve the failure problem..I don't know...but it would help.
Now, if only there were a better spot to locate the m.a.p. sensor and VEC....

Ron

 

[kyle's srt10]

Sorry to hear this Perry I definatly feel your pain

 

[bigike]

I carry a heat gun with me and read my headers often.......................

 

[bigike]

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?products_id=800

I'm installing two of these..............one at the inlet one inthe lower manifold.......... Just to watch the temp diff..