Ok so I need some help. I did the governor solenoid change and the transducer along with the shift kit and it still didnt take care of the code. It suvks because when the engine light is on it wont let me do a burn out or take off at all in first gear but all the other gears are totally good with all the power. It also only throws the code when it's hot and sitting at idle hot doesnt do it when it's cold. Any help is appreciated
Governor solenoid code
- Thread starter Viper315
- Start date
You could try to disconnect BOTH battery cables and touch them together for a second or two. That's worked in the past (for me and others), to kill stubborn codes.
Or, you may still have an actual solenoid OR Transducer issue.
I spent an entire driving season getting a 48RE to work properly. Some of the Chinese Transducers were crap (which is why I use a "Gold Can" from the older diesel transmissions).
The solenoids are extremely sensitive to particles in the fluid so you may have a band or clutch issue.
Driving around with your transmission locked in 3rd (like it will when it gets bad enough in there) isn't much fun.
Good Luck.
Or, you may still have an actual solenoid OR Transducer issue.
I spent an entire driving season getting a 48RE to work properly. Some of the Chinese Transducers were crap (which is why I use a "Gold Can" from the older diesel transmissions).
The solenoids are extremely sensitive to particles in the fluid so you may have a band or clutch issue.
Driving around with your transmission locked in 3rd (like it will when it gets bad enough in there) isn't much fun.
Good Luck.
Did you only change the Transducer or the Solenoid too??
I have the GM "swap" as well which offers larger Solenoid screens and actuator and they don't plug quite as easily as the OEM units.
To control the shifts, the Solenoids move very little (1/64") but if the screens are plugged with junk, the tiny actuator rod won't be able to move and will trip a code.
If you do have a clutch/band issue, you can keep changing Transducers and Solenoids and the problem will still exist until your 48-RE is repaired.
If you're lucky and it's just a stubborn code, try the battery cable trick.
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I trashed my 48-RE in less than 100 miles (?) when I installed my camshaft and Striker heads. It picked up 143 HP (wheel) with those (2) changes and the 48-RE didn't like it.
The power the 48-RE can handle is marginal in stock trim.
The 48-RE is stronger than the 727 it is based on (the 727 has it's roots in the 1950s); and fortunately the 48-RE can be made quite strong and reliable.
It just takes a bit of time and money (like everything else).
Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
The power the 48-RE can handle is marginal in stock trim.
The 48-RE is stronger than the 727 it is based on (the 727 has it's roots in the 1950s); and fortunately the 48-RE can be made quite strong and reliable.
It just takes a bit of time and money (like everything else).
Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
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