Hello from Germany SRT 10 QC

Discussion in 'New Members Section' started by Maxville, Dec 26, 2021.

  1. RoasterStrudel

    RoasterStrudel New Member

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    A couple forums I was a part of had some of this information, but went defunct over the years...

    I found a thread on a Dakota R/T forum and another Mopar forum that the hydraulic throwout bearing is slightly different, looks like the rest is similar and can be adapted. I can try to continue sifting through information if you'd like.

    Tick Performance is a company that specializes in T56's, they might be able to offer some insight, too.
     
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  2. GSJake

    GSJake Active Member

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    I am looking into the swap too for my 06, off the top of my head..

    You will need the manual center console which you have an 05 so they are not hard to find or expensive
    Manual column cover which does not have a hole in it for the auto gear selector
    Manual pedal set from the 04-05
    Get the viper hydraulics as they are better
    You will need a custom driveshaft made
    Need a tune and programer to turn off the auto controller in the PCM
    Run the reverse lights
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2022
  3. Maxville

    Maxville Member

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    I would highly appreciate every possible information. Thanks for your efforts.
     
  4. Maxville

    Maxville Member

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    Very good summary, thank you!

    You said Viper hydraulics, do you mean the master/slave cylinder?
    And do you know how the revers lights are operated in our auto trucks?
     
  5. GSJake

    GSJake Active Member

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  6. Maxville

    Maxville Member

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    20220307_094419.jpg
    Quick update
    The car is nearly complete, just need to reconnect the O2 sensors but unfortunatly the cut the wires... hopefully i find the correct connections.

    20220301_195757.jpg
    Meanwhile we worked on the donator of the gearbox
     
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  7. Maxville

    Maxville Member

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    I'm back guys.
    A few days ago, i picked the car up and drove it for the first time... what should i say... things went not like what i expected.
    The guys at the workshop were the car was before just put it together, more or less...

    So now i need to do it on my own to bring her back to full life.

    I had MASSIVE vacuum leaks, that was (hopefully) one of the reasons why it was running and shifting so badly.

    Another problem right now is, when the manifolds become hot, the steering touch it. 20220408_161935.jpg
    Any idea?

    And one of my biggest problems is to find any detailed part lists or exloded views.

    For example i need those rivet bolts located on the front bumper upper side, can't find them.
    20220408_151008.jpg just one is left...

    Last but not least, i wanted you to show you my #213 YF
    20220408_172450.jpg 20220408_163148.jpg
     
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  8. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    When you say the steering touches, I'm assuming you have aftermarket headers? Is the steering knuckle bolt hitting the manifold, or another part of the steering? If it's the steering knuckle bolt, and it sticks out past the nut, you can trim it down to be maybe an 1/8th inch past the nut. I was going to buy Billy Boat headers, and would have had to do it to my bolt.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2022
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  9. Maxville

    Maxville Member

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    It's exactly like you said, the bolt is hitting the manifold.
    I thought about to redesign the bolt with a smaller head to avoid this problem.
    Funny you mentioned Billy Boat, these are BB headers, to be precise it's the full system with cats.

    Thanks for your advice!
     
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  10. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    Glad to be of service for that issue. Also, on the RH header, be aware that a wire harness may need to be zip tied away from it. Could be routed different from the truck, but you may want to check.
     
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  11. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    That steering bolt is rather soft and can be tamed with a human-powered Hacksaw & Flat-File. Normally, chopping the extra threads then rounding off the bolt with a file will do the trick.

    An easy vacuum-line to forget is the one under the Throttle Body and/or the really big one a couple of inches from the front of the Intake Manifold (pointing Straight Down).
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2022
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  12. Maxville

    Maxville Member

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    Thank you for your input Ronnie!
     
  13. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Did you get it running right??
     
  14. Maxville

    Maxville Member

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    Looks like it does now, idle is about 700 - 750 rpm and it feels rather smooth.
    While driving i can't tell you atm, because for first i need to registrate the car and for that i need to do a security check (Hauptuntersuchung/TÜV).

    I will keep you updated!

    PS: Does somebody knows the partnumber of the plastic rivets that hold the front bumper? 20220426_132557.jpg
     
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  15. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    Good to hear it's running right. Did you trim the bolt down, and ensure no harnesses are touching? As for the plastic rivets, contact X2 Builders here in the States. They salvage SRT10's, Vipers, GT Mustangs, Vettes.
     
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  16. Maxville

    Maxville Member

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    Yes, the bolt is trimmed down and the harnesses are away from hot and moving parts.
    Thanks for X2 recommendation, i will contact them.

    I wanted to replace my ignition cables, because they gave me a good taste of how it feels to be ignited...
    I would choose some of these
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-9023c

    If you have some other recommendations, they are very welcome.

    And the next step would be, to let the headers heat wrap, like some of these.
    IMG-20220430-WA0016.jpg
     
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  17. AMS3

    AMS3 Well-Known Member

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    Check out this website for parts. Great quality.
    http://www.jtsvp.com/
    As for the headers, why not just get them ceramic coated? Not as bulky, plus with the wrap, you might impact the steering knuckle again...
     
  18. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Since you have to take the inlet manifold off you may as well put some Screamin' Demon Coils and Live Wires on. Then you can run a much bigger plug gap and fry that petrol real good. I figure the bigger the spark the more fuel mix it will burn and therefore more efficient and at $3.45 a litre for 100+ fuel I need it. My truck does 12.3l/100km
    https://performancedistributors.com/product-category/performance-accessories/screamin-demon-coils/
    Or
    https://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2004/make/dodge/model/viper/department/ignitions-electrical

    They reckon the OEM Coils are weak and are not too flash after 4500rpm. But read up do some homework and make your own decision.
    I am happy with my choice so far. You can even choose the colour of your leads.
     
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  19. Bad Azp Performance

    Bad Azp Performance Member

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    I keep a Yellow Fever Registry to track which ones are still alive and document which dash number goes with which vin. Dodge never documented this and didn't even build them in sequential dash OR vin order. Would you mind sending me a pic of the door jamb decal showing the vin and build information? Thanks
    See my main post in the viper truck registry section
     
  20. beastmode1

    beastmode1 Full Access Member

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    You got any Goldwings 1800 there? They ride great kiwi....