HID problem

johnnybravo

johnnybravo

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I just got my new HIDs from Steve today. I installed them following the directions, but when I turned on my lights, all the happened was the ballasts made a clicking noise for a while. I got the lamp out warning too. Any ideas why they won't come on? I tried searching and all I found were fixes for the lamp out light.
 
If you are Sure they are wired right, turn ignition and headlight switch off then crank truck up and turn headlight switch back on again.

I also ended up having to wire in the anti flicker resistors.
 
some of these HID kits need a resistor type of fuse ($-10) it fools the truck into thinking it's full powered lights since the HID draws a lot less power...my brother had to do it on the 06 Ram....i haven't put HID's yet but I'm sure our trucks are no different...hope that solves the problem it did on my brothers
 
pm XenonDepot, the kit works great on the trucks without modification, so somethings got to be weird.
 
I HAD SAME PROBLEM, I WAS TOLD THAT THESE LIGHTS WORK ON PULSE INSTEAD OF DIRRECT CURRENT, ANYWAY, I PUT A TOGGLE SWITCH TO THE LIGHT AND GROUNDED IT ON TRUCK, PUT THE SWITCH UNDER DASH,WHEN IM DRIVING,AND IT GETS DARK I TURN LIGHTS ON, EVRY NOW AND THEN THE DRIVER SIDE WONT FLICK ON, I FLIP THE TOGGLE SWITCH AND BAM,IT TURNS ON,,,I HAVE AN 04 DODGE 2500 SAME HIDS ,NEVER HAD A PROBLEM, 05 3500 AS WELL, NO PROBLEM, JUST ON THE 10,
 
finisher68 said:
I HAD SAME PROBLEM, I WAS TOLD THAT THESE LIGHTS WORK ON PULSE INSTEAD OF DIRRECT CURRENT, ANYWAY, I PUT A TOGGLE SWITCH TO THE LIGHT AND GROUNDED IT ON TRUCK, PUT THE SWITCH UNDER DASH,WHEN IM DRIVING,AND IT GETS DARK I TURN LIGHTS ON, EVRY NOW AND THEN THE DRIVER SIDE WONT FLICK ON, I FLIP THE TOGGLE SWITCH AND BAM,IT TURNS ON,,,I HAVE AN 04 DODGE 2500 SAME HIDS ,NEVER HAD A PROBLEM, 05 3500 AS WELL, NO PROBLEM, JUST ON THE 10,
Click to expand...
that would be an AC (alternating current) opposed to the DC......i think it has more to do with the lower wattage (similar to led tail lights with the fast flash, making the computer think there is a light out) look into the resistor it simulates a direct even flow electricity to these lights. it should eliminate the need to flick a switch on off which is basically fooling the lights into acting as electrical was added...worked for the 06 ram..i mean hell it's only $10 bucks and a few connectors...if it doesn't work keep flicking the switch:rock: :rock:
 
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COULD YOU EXPLAIN EXACTLY WHAT I NEED TO DO, IF YOU DONT MIND,I AM TIRED OF FLICKING THAT SWITCH,,THANKS
 
well on the 06 what it is is a square black looking fuse with 4 prongs on it (looks like the fuse you would see for the engine) I'm not exactly sure how the wires are connected because I can't see it right now..too dark out, so if you PM me in the morning I will take a look at it and how its connected..it's fairly simple about 5 minutes and I will be able to take pics to show you...
 
JonnyBravo,

Steve (XenonDepot) and I went through the same thing on my truck just two weeks ago. You need to get the 35W resistor pack he sells to get the HIDs to strike. If the Totally Integrated Power Module (dodge crap) doesn't see a headlight load, it pulses the voltage to lamp, causing the HID relays to constaantly switch back and forth.

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Low_Beam_Failure_Fix_p/rfix.htm

To fix the "lamp out" problem, you need to jump the low beam and high beam leads at the headlight connector. T-taps work great for this. The problem is that the TIPM needs to see a resistance on both the low beam and high beam leads. Justin figured this out:

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11598&page=5&highlight=xenon
(Scroll down to post #49)

I wish they told you all this when you first purchased the kit.

Let me know if you have any problems, since I just worked on this...
 
Tekhaus said:
JonnyBravo,

Steve (XenonDepot) and I went through the same thing on my truck just two weeks ago. You need to get the 35W resistor pack he sells to get the HIDs to strike. If the Totally Integrated Power Module (dodge crap) doesn't see a headlight load, it pulses the voltage to lamp, causing the HID relays to constaantly switch back and forth.

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Low_Beam_Failure_Fix_p/rfix.htm

To fix the "lamp out" problem, you need to jump the low beam and high beam leads at the headlight connector. T-taps work great for this. The problem is that the TIPM needs to see a resistance on both the low beam and high beam leads. Justin figured this out:

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11598&page=5&highlight=xenon
(Scroll down to post #49)

I wish they told you all this when you first purchased the kit.

Let me know if you have any problems, since I just worked on this...
Click to expand...

Steve had mentioned the resistor, but I thought that was to fix the lamp out light. Do you know if there something like this I can just buy at the auto store or something so I don't have to wait a week for shipping? Thanks for the help on this by the way guys.
 
The resistor is not going to be easy to find locally (IE-Radio Shack won't have it). If you pony up for shipping on the resistors, Steve can probably get them to you next day. But that probably means not until Tuesday.

I don't know off hand what the specs are on the resistor (?? Ohms), but if you found out from Steve, you could get them from an electronics supplier like DigiKey or Newark Electronics. The ones Steve send are nice, and include the aluminum heat sink too.

The wire and t-taps you need to bridge the high and low beams should be at a Radio Shack or good autoparts store.

For the time being, you can put the halogen lamp back in and just leave the HID kit installed. Leave the leads to lamps disconnected and just put some electrical tape on the ends to keep dirt and moisture out. I had to do it for two weeks, so I know it works.

Hope that helps!
 
bravo my brother took his truck out..as soon as he gets back I'll take a pic so you can see...it's really not hard at all and a local high end speaker shop will have this resistor or a good auto store....as far as the headlight you have to do the same thing except it is a lot smaller...they are made for turn signal and called LED load resistor..I have one of those too that I will post a pic of for you..you basically cross the hi to the LO beam and it fixes lamp out...
 
Hi Johnnybravo,

Please PM me with your contact info and i will give you a call to discuss.

We do include the resistors if you use the "VTCOA" coupon code provided. We normally do not include the resistors as not all vehicles need them.

Steve
 
John put the 8k kit in from Xenondepot and the headlights work great and no lamp out light but now I'm getting the lamp out light after having the truck for about two weeks. Is the resistor gold, about an inch long, and maybe need replacing? Can I just the low and high beam wires and not need the resistor? Does anyone have pics of which wires to jump?
 
Hi spdrcrj,

Do you have our kit installed?
Steve
 
i to have this problem and its been a few months and never got them to work my fogs worked just fine and about a week ago my right bulb went out...
 
ramviper10 said:
i to have this problem and its been a few months and never got them to work my fogs worked just fine and about a week ago my right bulb went out...
Click to expand...

Steve from XenonDepot can hook you up man. You need to add a resistor the headlight since the HIDs are only 35w and the factory bulbs are 55w. Takes maybe 10 minutes to fix.
 
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