How to Bleed the Clutch

VIPER HP

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I need to bleed the clutch and have some questions. I have done a search and read Boomers instructions and it does not answer my questions. First, can you bleed it using the bleed screw on the bell housing right above where the hydraulic line goes in? I assume you can't get to the slave without removing the trans. and bell housing but I figure you don't have to do that to bleed it. Is that right? Does anyone know if this is explained any where in the 10 book manual? I can't find it anywhere. Help!
 
there really is no effetive way to bleed them, if it needs to be bled 99% of the time it is about to completely blow. be prepared for a new master and slave, and while you at it might as well do the pressure plate and disk, and have tyhe flywheel cut
 
The reason I asked is when the engine is hot and you are stopped, it is hard to get into gear but if I turn the engine off it goes into gear just fine. I think the clutch fluid is old and looses its efficiency when hot just like in the race bikes. All I want to know is if you can bleed it out at the nipple by the bellhousing just like you bleed brakes. Thanks guys PLEASE HELP.
 
There is and isnt an easy way

first you can get to the slave without removing the tranny, I think that was your question.

Second you really need to get some different fluid in the system , the oem fluid breaks down way to easy and sometimes will cause your problem

Go by a parts store, find the highest boiling point available, it is located on the back of the bottle, valvoline syn power is available at most normal pparts stores and is good to 500 degrees, but it you find higher ,,,, use it;)



Now power bleeding is best, but most dont have those tools.


this is the way you can do it backyard style and very affective

first locat your bleeder screw on the tranny

second get you a clear piece of vaccum line or hose that will connect to the bleeder and a pan or something to catch the fluid.

this will also take two people

While one person is in the truck, the other under, have the person in the truck SLOWLY( i cant stress that enough!) depress the clutch peddle, hold it , open the bleeder, and before it completly empties, close it.

do this a couple times , until there is room in the resevior under the hood, fill the resevior to the top, and then proceed in bleeding the same way.

be sure not to pump the clutch peddle! slowly depress it once, hold , bleed, close,

but if the peddle is depressed too quick or numerous times, it will cause the fluid to cavitate, and have air bubbles.

keep bleeding until the fluid is very very clear, and you have basically flushed the fluid with new, keeping an eye on the resevior every four or five bleeds.

after you get good clean fluid, do it a few more times, and check to see if operation is normal
 
VIPER HP said:
The reason I asked is when the engine is hot and you are stopped, it is hard to get into gear but if I turn the engine off it goes into gear just fine. I think the clutch fluid is old and looses its efficiency when hot just like in the race bikes. All I want to know is if you can bleed it out at the nipple by the bellhousing just like you bleed brakes. Thanks guys PLEASE HELP.

As was just posted the stock fluid will boil and the clutch will not work untill it cools down.

I use Neo 610 or Motul 600. The Neo is usually difficult to find in my area but most motorcycle shops handle the Motul. The Motul is usually about 16.00 a pint. Both these fluids are compatable with the factory D.O.T. 3 so you do not have to thoroughly clean the old fluid out, just a good flush like Tony said.
 
Stinker,

To confirm your instructions, you have someone push the clutch in all the way before you open the bleed screw, then open it and bleed it off, then close the bleed screw and then have them release the clutch slowly. Is that right??
That makes sense and is aliittle different that bleeding brakes.
 

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