Just bought 06 QC

[ZRT10]

Just bought an 06' QC with 100k on it as my dd.

The cai debate on here is awesome. I initially wanted volant with the snorkel/scoop to the hood but all the collective knowledge here has me leaning towards a k&n. I want the sound, but don't like the open box format. I want more growl than a drop in with the stock box, so we will see. Someday I may consider looks under the hood, but would a 10 with 100k miles on it be show worthy?

Sadly I wasn't very thorough when test driving it or negotiating. The price wasn't a steal and there are some issues. The front seat slides when braking, even slowly. It's got some radial pull, or alignment problems. I noticed that on the long drive from Kentucky, where I bought it, to Kansas, where I go to school. Then today, about three weeks after buying it, the air won't switch from my feet and I can't toggle a/c or temperature for that matter. Plus heated seating doesn't work. Think that is a fuse issue or something deeper?

Once I sell my 05 Daytona I'll get some Lt headers and high flow cats, hopefully billy boat. It already has Magnaflow and I kinda like the popping. Not a lot of people here do it seems. After some research I still have two general performance questions. There is a lot of talk about getting a custom tune from torrie. Is this a person or a company and is it any tuner like bully dog or superchips and they put a custom tune on it? I'm terrible with acronyms but does SCT mean super-chips-tuner?
The second general question is about a Fitch Catalyst. The only post on here I could find called them bs, but I've seen reviews in hemi forums, autoanything, diesel trucks etc. say they are effective. Thoughts for the 8.3l? The age and use of the engine/truck makes it seem like this could be a good purchase for longevity, let alone a little better fuel mileage.

I'd also like to see what people think about suspension (probably won't tow with this), combined with the right tires/wheels. The ram daytona seems smooth compared to this, which is saying something. Its got 24's on it and driving on pavement might as well be gravel. I'll look around the site to see what people say about that stuff.

Sorry for the long post! Here are couple pictures:

 

[VPRPWRD]

Welcome to the VTCoA!

 

[Blacksrt1]

welcome where are ya from

 

[Wildcard]

Welcome from Maryland. The price you paid seems pretty spot on nice looking truck. In regards to fuel mileage its about 11. Not much you can do to improve it. You could do a manual trans swap, some of those guys can get 16+. Enjoy the new ride

 

[ZRT10]

Thanks for the welcomes. I'm from a small town northeast of Wichita, at least most of the time growing up, but currently in Topeka. I'm not too worried about the mpg's, I knew what they typically got going into it :burnout:. It's actually getting better than expected. There's a lot of good information on here about the bigger, more effextive mods like headers and exhaust, but there wasn't much on the fitch, and rightfully so I imagine. Figured I'd see what people's thoughts were on it. The manual trans swap would be awesome! Something to consider down the road, not for miles but for smiles.

 

[IronAffliction]

Sounds like you have some minor issues but keep a look out for major ones they will cost you like the transmission. If its your dd make sure you keep up on the maintenance. Welcome from wa

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Welcome from Waco, straight down 35 from ya. Anything ya need give me a shout :rock:

 

[mondragon-srt10]

Welcome from Odessa-Tx.

 

[THEWELSHM]

Thanks for the welcomes. I'm from a small town northeast of Wichita, at least most of the time growing up, but currently in Topeka. I'm not too worried about the mpg's, I knew what they typically got going into it :burnout:. It's actually getting better than expected. There's a lot of good information on here about the bigger, more effextive mods like headers and exhaust, but there wasn't much on the fitch, and rightfully so I imagine. Figured I'd see what people's thoughts were on it. The manual trans swap would be awesome! Something to consider down the road, not for miles but for smiles.

with a 100k on it I would be wary of major tunes...Don't dog it My 02 mate I have had 3 of these and have one with 180k. however if you do, some vendors here will hook you up with fixes..:rock:

thewelshm

 

[ZRT10]

Thanks for the responses guys. I had my shop check the truck out and they came up with a few things. I attached a picture of what they say should be done and some prices. I don't know if you'll be able to see much. Nothing was pressing, but they said it'd be good to keep these issues in mind. Mainly it looks like the tie rods need replaced, but they have me replacing all of them, both inner and outer for both sides. Think its something I can do, assuming I act reasonably, or should a novice just have the shop do it? I've got no beef with their labor price, but figure doing it myself would save some money. Other than the transmission flush, seems like I could do most of the stuff. Thoughts?

Zach

 

[Wildcard]

You could do it. You need a separator tool. You did say you were a novice, so what's your time worth? It will probably take you a while. $1100 all your problems are fixed,trucks aligned does not sound to bad to me. Your going to have to take it to get aligned and trans flushed anyway.

If you want to do something change your oil and belt yourself. Best of luck

 

[phunny]

If you're going to have the trans fluid changed why not have the bands adjusted at the same time.

 

[ZRT10]

Backseat, B&B headers and pipes

Hey I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on some headers. My truck already has magnaflow on it so I won't be getting a catback at this time. For an 06 Quad cab, and for B&B, I need to get the headers ~$1800, high flow cats ~$850 part number (071-FTRU-0446) (Front Section To B&B Header w/Catalytic Converter), and the quad cab extension pipes ~$215? On jegs I've got the cart at about $2900. Yikes!

Also, I posted a couple pictures of the latches on the back wall behind the QC back seats. I wanted the ability to pull the back/upright part down so I could wrap a seat cover around it. Basically, when you pull the bottom part of the seat upwards it also lifts the back upwards, but latches prevent the back from popping loose (to where you can pull it down). So, if you loosen the bolts holding the seats down (on mine it was 18mm) and lift up on the back you will clear the latches on the back wall. After that you need to flip the latches on the back wall upside down (used 10mm to remove bolts). IF the picture loads (it hasn't while I'm typing this) you can see the upside latch is lower. This will allow you to clear the latches when lifting upwards on the back. Do that for the others (four total) and you can now pull the back down when you need to. It won't fall down on you either. By flipping the latches it just allows you to clear them when you lift upwards on the back. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[ZRT10]

The photos were too big. Here we go.

 

[beastmode1]

Welcome to the VTCOA from the Centennial State.

 

[purerican]

Welcome to VTCOA!!!:rock:

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

I'd be happy to set you up with headers and exhaust for much less. :rock:

 

[FarTooMuchhh]

You wrote that your front seat slides when braking. I also have an '06 QC that does the same thing and it's REALLY annoying!

Did you ever get it fixed? I'd love to know "the fix" or how much it cost you to fix it.

Thanks!

 

[ZRT10]

I haven't fixed it yet! I guess I got used to it lol. But it is annoying. Now that you mention it maybe I will look around under the seat. I've wondered if it is just loose on the rail and all that needs done is tightening of a bolt. I'll let you know. It is strange that no mechanic has mentioned it yet, though. I've had it in a bunch of shops a lot recently and I assume they test drive it at the end to make sure everything runs ok.

I also wonder if its a bigger issue, at least for me. Periodically the airbag light will come on. When that happens I lose air conditioning and heated seats. It doesn't throw a code though. One dealership thought it may be an issue with the occupant restraint control (ORC), which may be located in or around the seat. I haven't researched that a whole lot. It has been known to short circuit... can cause the airbag light. Another thought it was a control module within the dash somewhere b/c of the ac, heated seats issue. Someday I'll probably get it fixed.