loose main thrust bearing

sinus19

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So i got this NEW loose main thrust bearing. (Venomous1 knows about it) just thought i post a video of what exactly is going on... my machinist says he wouldnt put it on. Maybe it will work once the cap is on because it will hold it in and keep it from slidng??? But then because its not a snug fit it wont tranfer heat into the block thus making the bearing run hotter?? Idk but there is no gap underneath that i can see. Also plasti gauge says .0015.
[ame]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nlQjwp4oC9E[/ame]
 
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have to install the crank and check for end play. Crank might be tight if you install with it like that . probably need to squeeze the sides abit. endplay will tell the tale . If it is on the tightside of tolerance i would leave it. should be fine. just keep it under 8000 RPM ;)
 
have to install the crank and check for end play. Crank might be tight if you install with it like that . probably need to squeeze the sides abit. endplay will tell the tale . If it is on the tightside of tolerance i would leave it. should be fine. just keep it under 8000 RPM ;)

No way in Hell I'd put that bearing in my engine, crank end play could still be in spec if the other bearing half fit correctly.
 
They are clevite and they are first set ive used.
 
I personally would not use that bearing, even if eveything is in spec.

For the simple fact of peace of mind.

Spending 1000's on a V-10, everything is going back to OEM on this project correct??

That bearing didn't move like that from the factory.

I don't have a solution for you guy, even though they are from clevite, one could still be bad.

As red said, maybe a new set of bearings?

It's already apart, do it right and sleep well at night.

Just my .02
 
I'll get with and see off they won't just overnight ya one bud. I agree with Slitherbeast though. Crank installed tells the tale. I don't like that it's the only one like that.
 
I'll get with and see off they won't just overnight ya one bud. I agree with Slitherbeast though. Crank installed tells the tale. I don't like that it's the only one like that.

I installed the crank and everything looks find but if you could me a another one i would much rather go that route Cus i was also reading about "Bearing Crush" and how important it is.
 
Bearing crush is the pushing of each bearing up against the bore of the block and the cap. Does the bearing shells move at all without the crank installed but the cap torqued? they won't spin because of the tabs, just need to check side to side. the crank will run on a film of oil not touching the bearing at all . the crank only scratches the bearing surface on dry starts. to much crush will deform roundness of the running surfaces . Although the bearing material is quite soft , after afew dry starts the bore will normalize. this is part of breakin. I would install it.......... just my opinion.
 
Bearing crush is the pushing of each bearing up against the bore of the block and the cap. Does the bearing shells move at all without the crank installed but the cap torqued? they won't spin because of the tabs, just need to check side to side. the crank will run on a film of oil not touching the bearing at all . the crank only scratches the bearing surface on dry starts. to much crush will deform roundness of the running surfaces . Although the bearing material is quite soft , after afew dry starts the bore will normalize. this is part of breakin. I would install it.......... just my opinion.

Thats exactly my thought... and yes i did put the cap on and checked for movement which there were none. BUT then again i would like to have that piece of mind too.
 
I got new ones coming in... hopefully it fits better
 

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