Motor blown!

Discussion in 'SRT-10 Trucks and Parts For Sale' started by Ourdad1, Nov 17, 2020.

  1. Ourdad1

    Ourdad1 Full Access Member

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    My 2005 quad motor blew. Looking to see if some for sale out there and at what cost. All help appreciated!
     
  2. THEWELSHM

    THEWELSHM Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    They are proud of used ones, have you considered a rebuild?

    thewelshm
     
  3. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    What happened to yours?
    What is damaged?
     
  4. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Even if parts were trying to leave the crank to have a look around outside the block, an Aluminum Welder can work wonders.
     
  5. Ourdad1

    Ourdad1 Full Access Member

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    Thanks RR. I will know more when I can get my hands on it. It is 200 miles away and attempting to get it home.
     
  6. Ourdad1

    Ourdad1 Full Access Member

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    Truck is 200 miles from home. working to get it here so I can get in it and find out if it can be rebuilt.
    Thanks!
     
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  7. THEWELSHM

    THEWELSHM Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Tony at JTS Viper performance will pick it up for you and quote.. I got mine back forged covers done all good to go $10k pick up rebuild installed and delivered back to FL. Used motors go for upwards of $7k and you may not know what you are getting mate?

    thewelshm
     
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  8. Ourdad1

    Ourdad1 Full Access Member

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    Just got it home. Mechanic said #2 piston has a hole. That is where it stands for now.
    Have to decide which way to go.

    I appreciate your reply/help. I assume to know whether to go the rebuild route with JTS I first need to tear it down to make sure it is rebuildable (trying to keep costs down).

    Again thanks. All help is welcomed.

    Most important I hope and pray you and your loved ones are having a wonderful Thanksgiving!
     
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  9. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Is your truck tuned?
     
  10. THEWELSHM

    THEWELSHM Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Mine broke a valve spring at 180108 miles, pissed me off because I wanted to see it do 200,000 miles :) Tony did a jamb up job a few years back and I just hit 6000 miles on engine and 5000 on transmission. Good luck with rebuild mate.

    thewelshm
     
  11. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Further to "Is your truck tuned? "...

    Holes do not just appear.
    It would be caused by something entering the cylinder (bolt, nut, etc.), dropping a valve as mentioned) or an agressive tune, causing detonation. You may be able to replace one piston (if you are lucky) but if it is the tune, change it so it won't happen again. Typically detonation attacks the ring lands and damages the top edge of the piston. IF it is an actual hole more towards the center of the piston, something got into that cylinder. Hard to diagnose with just the word "hole".
     
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  12. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    If you end up changing one piston (and rings), change the rod out too. They are cracked powder and don't like shock. Have a good look at the rod bearings as well. Although the pistons in a stock Gen III can fail quickly by detonation there may also have been enough time to hammer the bearing out AND maybe damage the crank journal as well. As always a full and thorough rebuild is often best after failure. Lots of different repair approaches to consider here.
     
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  13. Skypilot68

    Skypilot68 Full Access Member

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    Sometimes I think what would I do if my engine blew, at 96K miles now but still running strong..good luck either way.
     
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  14. Ourdad1

    Ourdad1 Full Access Member

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    RR,

    Thanks for all the advice. Just about to tear it down to see what’s up. I’ve thought about talking to Mast Motorsports. It’s about five miles. It would be costly to turn it over to them but the end product would be crazy fast. Or do what you said fix it, and find someone (maybe Mast) to properly tune it.
    The MD who owned it befor me paid Hennessey about $10,000-$11,000 to do some work on it. I don’t see that much for the price and Hennessey said they don’t have anything on it.
    Headers, Plenum, possibly cam, wheels (didn’t last). That’s all I could tell. They probably put a chip in it. No governor. Had it pegged at 160 but kept going faster.
    It’s been my daily driver for many years.
    Considered getting rid of it. Then I woke up from the nightmare I was having.







     
  15. oldcolt

    oldcolt Striker Heads and Cam Supporting Member

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    Chris Jensen and Torrie McPhail are the best tuning professionals for these trucks, SCT makes the only hand held tuner for our trucks.


     
  16. Ourdad1

    Ourdad1 Full Access Member

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    RR
    Would you pay the extra bucks and go forged? I could just fix the one piston but there is wear and tear on all the others and feel I should rebuild.

    Looking for your expert advice on this and ideas of what I might do to go faster so I can see if I can afford it.
     
  17. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    It depends what YOU want and how much you are prepared to spend.
     
  18. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    "Forging" an engine improves it's overall strength and capacity to work harder (with more WOT power), without structural damage.
    The (2) items "forged" are pistons and rods.
    If you increase the compression through piston design you will increase torque and horsepower. Even 1/2 point will help (from 10:1 to 10.5:1, for example). If your engine has gold head gaskets (check the lower edge of the cylinder heads on the passenger-side) it has been apart and because of the thinner gaskets (compared to the oem black ones), it will already be around 10.3:1 (a good thing) assuming no changes were made to the pistons and the heads haven't been cut. If the gaskets are black, your engine is still a virgin.
    Changing camshafts create a change like a see-saw: Torque goes UP and Horsepower goes DOWN or vice-versa. Be careful here...If you choose a grind (or come up with your own) that is too rank for the engine's compression ratio, it will be a gas-thirsty dog that only makes power on the top-end and won't be much fun to drive at lower (normal 90+% of the time you are in your truck). And you don't want to force a torque engine like the 8.3L to be a revver' to make power by making a poor camshaft choice. It's the OVERALL power you are trying to improve unless you don't care about drivability and just want the cam "sound". And that's all some guys want.
    For the best results, choose a cam that works with the compression ratio you choose. High 10s (10.8:1, 10.9:1) are pump gas friendly, without needing additives.
    Unless you are planning some extensive mods, save your money and don't buy headers. Go with high-flow cats instead or (yuck), cut them off.

    I'm out of time.
    Do some research and ask questions.
    Later

    Ronnie
     
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  19. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    What are your power expectations?
    Do you want to use power adders? (Nitrous, Supercharging and/or Turbocharging) because if you do, NOW is the time to decide.
    I'd also opt for better Main Caps (like the Program style) IF you are going to go with forged pistons and rods.
    If you go that far, have the block machined for the 160 degree Gen IV style bearings AND the one piece oil pump relief valve.
    Do you care about gas mileage?
    What are emission laws like in your area?
    Have you budgeted for building your tranny to take more power (they are pretty marginal) and wont like much more than a 100 horsepower increase for very long.
    Do you want a higher stall torque convertor in the 2600-2800 stall range? (WAY more fun than the stock unit and HIGHLY recommended)
    Will your engine run strictly on pump gas?
    You are approx. 5600 pounds with Driver and because you have an auto, I'd build the engine for torque.

    Camshaft in the 226-230 range @ .050. Go with more robust pushrods if you want.
    Grind it on a 114 LSA to build early cylinder pressure. Lift will be determined by head choices.

    CHOOSE A GOOD TUNER

    Ask away...
     
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  20. beastmode1

    beastmode1 Full Access Member

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    I agree prefer to salvage your old one if possible.
     
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